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Old July 11th, 2011, 01:23 PM   #1
cerial
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Default Having second thoughts about engine

Right now the my 69 cj5 has a 231/t-14/d18. It is almost completely stock except for the 231. In the shed I have a 69 225 dauntless with 25k on it (that's what the guy that I bought it from on here said anyway). The engine looks fresh through out and after dropping around a grand into an new intake/holly avenger carb it seems like a great way to go.

I have a low ratio t-18 for behind the engine that has been rebuilt with the stubby shaft already to go. I plan on rebuilding/using my small hole Dana 18 and slapping in a warn overdrive. Some tom woods 22" stroke drive shafts will feed into a set of ps drop 87 Toyota fj 62 axles that will retain the factory 4.11. The axles will get rebuilt and house some long fields. I might even use the ruff stuff housings if "Dan" will ever get back to me about shortening the 66" length to stock 60/58. I plan on running 35" MTR's for the tires on some 17 inch wheels that will leave some room for over sized calipers/disks.

I am building this jeep to keep. I know people say that all the time but I am rather pig headed about this jeep (and am dumping roughly 13 k into it) making the body rust proof by using hdpe that encases most of the steel, adding a cage that will survive a multiple roll as well as a side impact, reinforcing the frame for years of twist free fun. I am making this thing as "hey watch this" proof as possible. And in the event of a big time screw up I have designed everything to be easily rebuild able.

I am using a carb instead of efi for the simple fact that I may not be able to find parts for "bob's easy efi" in 10 years.

The issue that I have is that I can not find any parts for this dang 225. I understand that the flywheel is bomb proof and in stock form the engine puts out respectable numbers. But, when looking for the basics I am finding myself a bit flustered. I can not find heads, intake, balancers, rebuild kits are vague in there parts description.

The simple question keeps running through my head.
What happens if I grenade this thing? It seems if the parts are hard to find now they will seem all but impossible to find later. Jeep has the 3.7 that is really close in size/performance. I guess that would be a option but a expensive one.

Another thing is that no one makes a 225 crate engine. I understand the engine is pushed to the limits but no one even makes a stock form replacement.

So, I am leaning towards a 383 crate. It is going to be a 5.7 no mater what I wont use any other engine.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CHEV-...Q5fAccessories

For roughly 4k I could have a "new" 383 that I would not have any issue finding parts for. Get some MORE mounts that I have seen locate a 5.7 to the drivers side nicely.

I could see myself dumping 4k into the dauntless freshening up the rings/ heads/ switching out a intake/ getting the flywheel/adding a avenger upgrading the distributor and making sure the entire thing was balanced.


I am looking for a voice of reason here. Is it worth keeping the dauntless or should I just cut my losses and drop in a 383?
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Old July 14th, 2011, 02:13 PM   #2
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My friend had a 383 i his jeep and that thing was nasty! I'd go w/ the 383, like you said why spend all that money on a smaller engine when you can buy a bigger one for the same amount that you gonna put into the other.
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Old July 14th, 2011, 10:58 PM   #3
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I would be cheaper and easier to adapt the chevy engine to just about anything, you'll more than likely want to run the engine with efi or propane, and that shouldnt be too hard with a chevy engine (I know you said you didnt want to, but you'd like the efi so much better than a carb)

Pretty much cheaper for everything on the chevy engine
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Old July 14th, 2011, 11:46 PM   #4
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how is the jeep going to be driven? are weight and dimensions a concern?
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Old July 14th, 2011, 11:52 PM   #5
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Yea, I ran the numbers on a dauntless rebuild. The guy I bought it from (off here) said it came out of a 69 cj that was used as a plow for a school and it had something like 25 k on it. It looks fresh, but yea to get it up and running like cherry(I don't have the darn flywheel) I'm in the ballpark of that crate engine.

I paid a grand for the 225 and will be selling it for $400 as (I can't prove it runs but it looks all original)and 231 for idk $400 (cause it will run if you pour gas down the carb but needs some tuning after sitting for who knows how long) (it has a new starter on it that I paid around $180 for so $400 seems about right) here when I come back around the 1st

The guy said he could build me that 383 within 6 weeks of payment. So that's on my spring purchase list. Should pay him by February and have it by April about the same time as when I will be ready to start installing the drive train.

Not exactly sure how I am going to get it off the semi at this point. Hoping I could ship it with someone that has a hydraulic drop in the rear of the truck. Then I could just use the floor jack I use for moving around other heavy junk.

Yea shooting back and forth between propane. I always talked abut building a rig with it but that avenger looks cool. I have a while to go back and forth before deciding on that.
It is not going to be tbi/efi though(although I did drool over this for a long while http://www.crateenginedepot.com/stor...0-P1897C2.aspx Its basically a corvette engine and harness for under 8k. Bit over my justifiable budget, but take a peek at that pretty torque curve. ;).

I have a back yard mechanic degree with over 12 of my personal vehicles under my belt in 1st gen tbi. It's not complicated, the parts are cheap, and the codes work a good amount of the time. I just don't want to find myself in a situation where my IAC starts to act up and it makes me look bad. That was a bad example you can bypass that. Ok the crank sensor. I don't want to find myself stranded on the side of the road cause my crank sensor shut off the engine cause the oil gauge malfunctioned (87 1st gen 3800 Bonneville). It was a pos that I bought for $200 and was a month away from a derby but still.

Anyone ever have a emissions vacuum sensor (has some bs name) go bad? It is the one with the little cover about the size of a quarter that covers a foam filter. If that filter clogs and that sensor goes bad watch out it will cause tons of headaches. The part is like $140 and it is a special order(if they even stock it anymore). There is no way to bypass it and it will bog the engine to the point of stalling. I got a truck for $500 because of it. Had to drive it for 2 weeks with the foot on the floor to get up and move cause the former dealer in Caledonia did not know how to order a part(I go to Berger only now).

Having something I can tune on the side of the road/trail and limp home seems a lot better then being stranded after I pull the engine out of a slurry of mud.
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Old July 15th, 2011, 12:03 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deerebowtie View Post
how is the jeep going to be driven? are weight and dimensions a concern?
Going to be driven like 90% daily driver. It will be a bit heavy(it will vary depending on what body i put on it but around 3500 total sounds about right. But it is out of safety and convince to unbolt/slide out everything above the steering wheel and put it in the back. My goal is full hard top to open top in under 10 minutes with nothing more then a drill.

The dimensions are not a concern as I am building the body/engine bay from the ground up. The tilt forward hood has a bar in the back that unbolts in case I want to slide out the flat hdpe section and put in a high rise, louvered, or other type.

The only issue I really see is with cooling (bigger electric fans/hi volume low idle water pump should fix it I think). Everything else stays the same as with the v6 plan.
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Old July 15th, 2011, 01:29 AM   #7
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what about the guy on here selling the whole truck for 1200$ in Indiana? seems like the perfect deal for you. if you're stuck on a manual trans the sm465/np205 is always a good choice.
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