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Old September 28th, 2006, 07:14 PM   #21
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BTW, funny enough, I was behind a late model E250 ford van today, and I could visually ID a Dana 60 back there with discs on it. Didn't look nearly as wide as a truck axle.


I'd caution, though, unless you are doing something with the front brakes, putting on 3/4 ton brakes on the back is going to make for awful brake bias ratio. And no, don't say adjustable prop valve.....
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Old September 28th, 2006, 08:23 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar

I'd caution, though, unless you are doing something with the front brakes, putting on 3/4 ton brakes on the back is going to make for awful brake bias ratio. And no, don't say adjustable prop valve.....
Define "doing something" w\ the front brakes please.
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Old September 28th, 2006, 08:29 PM   #23
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Bigger and better. But if your keeping the 8 lug then you'll probably go with a 8 lug 44 or 60 and they will have the correct matching brakes
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Old September 28th, 2006, 09:02 PM   #24
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Its getting into the brake design of the vehicle.

For safety, you need the fronts to lock first. Its federal law for new cars, in fact. Thats the function of a prop valve.

Ever wonder why front brakes are bigger? Its not because they do the most braking, its to force them to do the most braking.

The larger rear brakes are going to provide more braking force, for the same line pressure, than the front brakes will. Theoretically, you use a prop valve to lower the pressure. However, there's only so much it can drop, and many people still issues, even turned all the way down, with rears locking first, which causes loss of control during a panic stop, or a loose downhill trail, where the ass-end will start sliding out on you.

Its just one of the things that you go through when modifying your brake system. There's some good info on Pirate about it. Happens a lot with toyotas, guy go with K1500 rotors and monte carlo calipers, and end up with way too much rear brakes.
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Old September 28th, 2006, 09:48 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99grandtj


Check the auction lately?

Musclecar people are retaaaaaarded. :tonka:
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Old September 28th, 2006, 10:43 PM   #26
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:tonka:

Hey, cars are car, and you pay to get correct part. I believe my granpda paid $50,000 for a correct headlight on one of his packards, several years back.
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Old September 28th, 2006, 10:45 PM   #27
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He does have a SRT-8 GC with less than 300 miles up for auction also.
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Old September 29th, 2006, 05:42 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PavementPounder
Check the auction lately?

Musclecar people are retaaaaaarded. :tonka:
That's still a good price- It should go for around $1200-$1500. Having one made would cost a little more, and 'till recently, no one was making a center section with provisions to mount the factory pinion snubber. This is for a bolt in, 5 on 4 1/2", 1 1/2" axleshaft SF D60.

Remember when people were paying $500 for D60-2s on Pirate? Then they still had to narrow them and add a locker. All for a sport where the stuff we build gets damaged semi regularly on the trail, and is never worth near the total cost of parts we put into it.

"Sofa King We Todd It", indeed...
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Old September 29th, 2006, 09:37 AM   #29
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Still a good price but not at 1200, that. :tonka:
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Old September 29th, 2006, 11:45 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99grandtj
Bigger and better. But if your keeping the 8 lug then you'll probably go with a 8 lug 44 or 60 and they will have the correct matching brakes
At the moment I've got the powerslots up front... I don't know if that's a good enough upgrade though. I was planning on getting a D44 for the front after I swap the rear in. Little by little, ya know...

(Ps, then I can do the engine swap... )
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Old September 29th, 2006, 12:03 PM   #31
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Its more the hydrauic ratio. Slotted rotors don't really do much other than removing money from your wallet.

Larger calipers = more clamping force for same system pressure.

Larger pads = more swept area.

Larger radial distance of swept area centroid from axle center = more brake leverage.

etc, etc, etc..

Not saying its a complete death trap, but it may take a good amount of trial and error to get things tuned to a halfway safe level.
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Old September 29th, 2006, 12:48 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rallyemore
I was planning on getting a D44 for the front after I swap the rear in. Little by little, ya know...
If that's the case, you may be better off shopping for a matching pair of axles right now to address the braking concerns (like 99grandTJ mentioned). Then you don't have to deal with any bolt pattern matching and the f/r brakes were meant to work with each other, although you might need to upgrade the MC to handle the increased volume of the system. I forget what vehicle we're talking about here, but the F-250 stuff I've been pushing at everybody :tonka: seems to be a good option for a lot of different applications. I have some coil brackets for the front, also.
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Old September 29th, 2006, 12:59 PM   #33
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Ya when I swapped in my rear 60 I was planning on buying adapters to go from 5 lug to the 8 lug. Then I found out the cheapest I could find them was $130 apeice! So saving $260 plus selling the dana 30 for a few hundred I put that toward a front 60. If you are looking at a 44 that will probably cost less than it will to buy the adapters and selling the 30. Espically since tj guys love the hp30!
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Old September 29th, 2006, 01:14 PM   #34
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Yeah, if you go with a 44, then you get get 3/4 ton brakes to match the rears.

Take a look here at erik's site, it will give you some idea about MCs and their effect. This stiuff is for his yota, but is applicable for others.

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/
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Old October 4th, 2006, 09:27 PM   #35
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Sorry pavement-pounder, you did not win the item. Find similar items now!

Wow.
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Old October 4th, 2006, 11:27 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooter
It should go for around $1200-$1500.
I guess $106 was a little low
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Old October 4th, 2006, 11:33 PM   #37
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I started the bidding frenzy with that $106. :tonka:
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