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Old May 26th, 2011, 07:15 PM   #1
WantaBronco
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Default What can u tell me on Broncos?

Hi, im lookin for a first car and am really into Ford Broncos (mostly between '78 and '84 and '91-'96). Want one that hasn't been beat to shit (daily driver would be great) and would like to lift it/tires myself.. just looking for some tips or things i should know about the bronco, or things i should look for , maybe something for sale looking for under $2500... figured there'd be a few people on here that know about them...thanks


-Drew
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Old May 26th, 2011, 09:24 PM   #2
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78-79 are good candidates for installing lifts and using offroad, since they have a solid front axle from the factory. One issue with them is due to their age finding one with a decent body in your price range might be tough and you're going to hate the fuel economy of the carb'd V8 unless you drive REALLY nicely or swap in a newer EFI engine.

All the newer ones are fairly similar - TTB front axle, post 86 will be EFI. Shouldn't be too hard to find a decent one from the early 90's in OK shape in your price range.
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Old May 26th, 2011, 09:26 PM   #3
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you can still give me a call if you wanted to talk about myne
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Old May 30th, 2011, 11:22 PM   #4
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Thanks big block.. anybody else?
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Old May 30th, 2011, 11:32 PM   #5
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How about this one???

FS/FT \\\\\\\\\\'85 Ford Bronco~rebuilt engine/trans~$1150 - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest
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Old May 31st, 2011, 01:54 PM   #6
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Bigblock sums it up fairly well, but I will throw my pennies into the pot. 78 and 79 Broncos will have the solid front axle for easy lift, and the majority have the 351M or 400M which has the big block tranny to make the 460 an easy swap if you want power.

If you are looking for better milage, the 94 to 96 Broncos will have a 5.0 or the 5.8 and both will have roller cams to free up some HP, and will have mass air sensors which will adjust to upgrades easier than a speed density system. All 80 through 96 broncos will have the TTB dana 44 in the front. 80 through 85 will have the 9" rear and the 86 through 96 will have the 8.8" in the rear.

4 basic bodies for the full size. 78 and 79, 80-86, 87-91 and 92-96

When you go to look at one (if its ttb) check the radius arm bushings and the ball joints
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Old May 31st, 2011, 04:03 PM   #7
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They started MAF in 94 or 95 on the turd 302 '96 was the only year 351 with MAF. I think your going to have a hard time to find a nice one in your price range but then again mines pretty nice and i paid way less than your budget. The TTB axle is not bad and for the most part will do anything you could want. I have 6" and 35's I got 16-17 mpg last weekend goin up north. Id go for the 351 over the 302 if you go newer.
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Old May 31st, 2011, 08:15 PM   #8
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They started MAF in 94 or 95 on the turd 302 '96 was the only year 351 with MAF. I think your going to have a hard time to find a nice one in your price range but then again mines pretty nice and i paid way less than your budget. The TTB axle is not bad and for the most part will do anything you could want. I have 6" and 35's I got 16-17 mpg last weekend goin up north. Id go for the 351 over the 302 if you go newer.

I agree that the TTB is a good set-up, but they are more expensive to lift (I assume he is planning on a lift sometime) and a lifted TTB usually eats the outside edges of the front tires. That being said though, a solid swap with a lift shouldn't run much more than a TTB lift kit providing you find a complete axle with radius arms for a good price.
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Old May 31st, 2011, 09:56 PM   #9
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I agree that the TTB is a good set-up, but they are more expensive to lift (I assume he is planning on a lift sometime) and a lifted TTB usually eats the outside edges of the front tires. That being said though, a solid swap with a lift shouldn't run much more than a TTB lift kit providing you find a complete axle with radius arms for a good price.
yea I do want to lift it....you think I should do SAS rather than lift a ttb right?
So what I'm thinkin I should do is get one from the 3rd or 4th generations with a 351 and do a SAS then lift it... does that sound like a good plan? ... its kind if what I've put together from what you all have said...

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Old May 31st, 2011, 10:09 PM   #10
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yea I do want to lift it....you think I should do SAS rather than lift a ttb right?
So what I'm thinkin I should do is get one from the 3rd or 4th generations with a 351 and do a SAS then lift it... does that sound like a good plan? ... its kind if what I've put together from what you all have said...
Really depends on the intended use. You are going to be DD'ing this so tire wear would be a huge concern and unless you plan on running high speeds offroad you would be better suited with a SAS than TTB. Lifting a TTB can result in bad front end geometry (most off the shelf lift kits don't get it right) and badly worn tires. With the cost of new tires skyrocketing my opinion is to do the SAS and be done with it. A D44 solid front isn't any stronger than the TTB 44 as far as wheel joints and shafts are concerned, but the major benefit is the simplicity of the solid axle and its relatively easy set-up.

My ranger with the a 4" skyjacker TTB lift worn a half inch off the outside edge of my new LTB's (31x11.5-15) in less than 1000 miles. The lift was installed per the instructions, all new springs and ball joints were also installed and I had it aligned twice at a local tire shop and still had the tire wear issue.
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Old May 31st, 2011, 10:25 PM   #11
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Really depends on the intended use. You are going to be DD'ing this so tire wear would be a huge concern and unless you plan on running high speeds offroad you would be better suited with a SAS than TTB. Lifting a TTB can result in bad front end geometry (most off the shelf lift kits don't get it right) and badly worn tires. With the cost of new tires skyrocketing my opinion is to do the SAS and be done with it. A D44 solid front isn't any stronger than the TTB 44 as far as wheel joints and shafts are concerned, but the major benefit is the simplicity of the solid axle and its relatively easy set-up.

My ranger with the a 4" skyjacker TTB lift worn a half inch off the outside edge of my new LTB's (31x11.5-15) in less than 1000 miles. The lift was installed per the instructions, all new springs and ball joints were also installed and I had it aligned twice at a local tire shop and still had the tire wear issue.
That makes sense... and that sucks for your ranger
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Old May 31st, 2011, 10:29 PM   #12
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That makes sense... and that sucks for your ranger
doesn't matter any more, it sits on 1 tons
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Old June 1st, 2011, 10:29 AM   #13
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If you're looking for opinions i'll give mine.

I would stay awar from the E40D if possible. They can be a good trans but most don't maintenance them and last I checked they are expensive/common rebuilds. I never did like automatics so i'm biased.

Watch out for blowby on those EFI's.

I had a pcv hose/breather on the back of motor clog up and it seemed to blow all the oil seals.

My favorite motor by far is the 300, nothing to fancy, but can get the job done.
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Old June 1st, 2011, 11:48 AM   #14
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If you're looking for opinions i'll give mine.

I would stay awar from the E40D if possible. They can be a good trans but most don't maintenance them and last I checked they are expensive/common rebuilds. I never did like automatics so i'm biased.

Watch out for blowby on those EFI's.

I had a pcv hose/breather on the back of motor clog up and it seemed to blow all the oil seals.

My favorite motor by far is the 300, nothing to fancy, but can get the job done.
e4od was better post 95. many problems addressed. mine has been very strong. no o/d when towing solves problems

300 is my fav. too. not sure if broncos still had them in the later years as f150 did like mine I love.

I say 95-96 MAF 300 if it exists. if not, my vote is whatever doesn't have a 302 in it. pig motor for bronco. 300 or 351 only. That's what I would buy.
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Old June 1st, 2011, 12:28 PM   #15
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e4od was better post 95. many problems addressed. mine has been very strong. no o/d when towing solves problems

300 is my fav. too. not sure if broncos still had them in the later years as f150 did like mine I love.

I say 95-96 MAF 300 if it exists. if not, my vote is whatever doesn't have a 302 in it. pig motor for bronco. 300 or 351 only. That's what I would buy.
Every stock 351 I've driven or ridden in has been a bit of a disappointment. The 302/Aod broncos always felt more energetic to me. That 351 seems sluggish. But I do agree on the 300. Not fancy but dn they're tough.
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Old June 1st, 2011, 11:42 PM   #16
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e4od was better post 95. many problems addressed. mine has been very strong. no o/d when towing solves problems

300 is my fav. too. not sure if broncos still had them in the later years as f150 did like mine I love.

I say 95-96 MAF 300 if it exists. if not, my vote is whatever doesn't have a 302 in it. pig motor for bronco. 300 or 351 only. That's what I would buy.
I never even thought about a 300.... thought there was only 302 and 351+
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Old June 2nd, 2011, 12:04 AM   #17
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wow ford ppl
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Old June 4th, 2011, 02:21 AM   #18
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anyone else got anything to add?
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Old June 4th, 2011, 11:04 PM   #19
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anyone else got anything to add?
Spend a couple extra dollars and look south for a good rust free one.
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Old June 5th, 2011, 08:48 AM   #20
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get a 78 or 79. they are nice trucks. look for a stock one, from the south or west.

avoid michigan trucks.

good luck.
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