|March 26th, 2011, 04:09 PM||#1|
Join Date: 02-04-09
Location: Farwell, MI
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Write up for PowerTrax No-Slip for Chry 8.25
I bought a Powertrax No-Slip for my 2000 XJ (Chry 8.25 29 spline), part 92-0382-2905. Here is what I did and my experience.
First off, I'd like to highlight an unpleasant experience with an internet vendor. Knowing what I wanted, I went looking for a low price on the internet. Needing a 29 spline version meant I was going to pay a bit more than the 27 spline version. Autopartsdealer.com came in a good amount lower than others, almost too good to be true and priced like the 27 spline, but I bit anyway. Long story short, they didn't have it in stock, and didn't know when the manufactuer could get them another. I can be a conspiracy theorist, so I think I caught them in the wrong price, and they just waited for me to cancel my order instead of owning up to the mistake. After wasting a week of my time, I called and cancelled, and then it took three days to process and approve my cancel request. It will take another 3 days for the debit transaction to reverse to my bank account. Sheesh. So the learning experience here is to call and verify stock before ordering on the i-net.
Tools you will need besides jacks and jackstands:
I put the XJ on jackstands and removed the tires. Jackstands are your friend, and remember jacks are not jackstands. My XJ came with disc brakes, and I had to use 12mm wrench to remove the calipers, but you may just need to remove the drums.
13mm socket takes off all of the diff cover bolts, and a screwdriver helps pry the pan off.
A 5/16 bolt holds in the cross shaft. It needs to be removed, and then the cross shaft will slide out.
Once the shaft comes out, the axle shafts can be pushed in, this dislocates the c-clips, and allows you to remove them. You will need these later.
The axle shafts can now slide out. This is a good opportunity to inspect them. For my project, I used this opportunity to remove the old lugs, and replace them with ones 1/2 longer. They hammer right out, but I recommend taking them to a tire store that has the proper tool to reinsert them. My aluminum rims are thicker than stock, and this was a good upgrade to get more bite from the lug nuts.
With the axle shafts out, you can remove the rest of the spider gears, thrust washers and all. PowerTrax tech support told me that I would not reuse the thrust washers. The directions do not say to re-use them, but the PowerTrax Lockrite install I just did on the dana 30 front does re-use them, this PowerTrax No-slip for the Chry 8.25 does not. The kit came with a checkblock to ensure correct tolerences, and sure enough without thrust washers, everything went as planned.
Once the carrier is empty, grease the couplers that came with the kit, and install ring side one first, then the other. At this point I added the ring side C-clip back, and pulled the axle out to the side to secure it.
The drivers need axle grease in the spring holes to hold the springs.
The ring side coupler has a notch in it to accept the paddle of the black spacer. The black spacer paddle also fits into a notch on the driver. The key for the install is that the teeth and paddles all mesh. My kit came so that everything lined up, but if you screw around with the coupler you can get the paddle notch to rotate in the syncro ring, and this can give you a problem later. So dont mess with it if everything meshes together. I was able to rotate the syncro ring with my hands just to see it move.
If I've lost you in terminology:
Coupler - part that has splines
Syncro ring - this is the innner ring of the coupler, and doesn't have as many teeth as the outer ring of the coupler.
Spacer - this is black and has a paddle, it will cup the ends of your axle shafts when they are inserted. This fits inside the driver.
Driver - has the spring holes, and will cup the cross shaft. These will end up in the center of the carrier.
The ring side driver and spacer should be installed first. When finished, make sure the pins on the driver go to the back of the diff case, you may need to rotate the axle.
Now for the second driver. Since the first driver has its pins in the back of the case this will slide right in. The key here to once again make sure the paddle of the spacer fits into the slots on the pass side coupler and driver. This can be tricky, but if you've got it right, everything will mesh together.
Once everything does mesh, you dont want everything to fall towards the middle. I used a screw driver in the center to force everything sideways. Now you need to rotate the couplers and drivers to expose the coin slots on the couplers. I then slid the other axle shaft in, carefully, and had a light shining in the coin slot so I could see the end of the axle shaft. Once it was in the right spot to accept the other c-clip, I used a screwdriver to put it in. You will know when its in right because you can slide the axle shaft back outside and it will lock into place, and you wont be able to see the c-clip. Now for an important point, I've never had to remove one of these, but from what I've read up on, this is a potential point of no easy return. If you have axle shaft work that needs to be done, get it done before this point. Removal of the c-clip after this point has apparently sent people to the mental ward. You've been warned.
Now the last set of springs gets installed. These are dual springs, one will fit inside of the other. The inner spring must seat into the sides of the drivers. They have a tiny notch so you can easily see if the inner spring has seated. Personally this design makes me a bit nervous. I'd feel better with more recessed seats. It looks like if wind up the carrier to 90mph, these will come popping out. But since this is my trail rig, I'll trust the engineers for now....
Finally, the kit comes with a new cross shaft. This has a tapered end to help get past the yellow springs on the drivers. Insert this tapered end first, in the correct side of the carrier so that the hole on the cross shaft winds up with the hole in the carrier. The yellow springs give some resistance, and I was worried I was going to pop one out, but I didn't. Installing the shaft is really easy to do if you put the old pin through the shaft first and use it like a T handle.
Use the 5/16 wrench to put the pin back in. You will need to have the hole of the cross shaft aligned correctly to make this painless.
Clean up the diff housing and diff cover, and a bead of silicone makes your new gasket. With cover on, put in some gear lube through diff cover port. Put drums (or calipers) back on, tires on. Do a final torque on the lug nuts with tires on the ground. You're golden.
This was very easy to do, and honestly I spent more time going to the parts store and tire shop to get the upgrade done on my lug bolts.
I'd like to acknowledge my buddy who frequently helps out with projects like these. Work is always easier with a pal, thanks Z.
I drove this around the yard, we had about 6" of wet snow at 33 deg F. It did very well, just like my lincoln locker on my 95 XJ Dana 35. I added a LockRite to the Dana 30 last week, so in 4x4, it was just stupidly easy. It's didn't even feel like snow. This thing has more traction than bigcountry O'Donnel's shoes.
EDIT: An admin or the server is changing my punchline. R O S I E turns into bigcountry in the line above.
Quick vid, nuttin special.
Last edited by SammySmalls; March 26th, 2011 at 08:41 PM.