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Old March 18th, 2011, 03:56 PM   #1
SammySmalls
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Default Write up for Powertrax LockRite for Dana 30

I recently bought a Powertrax 2210-LR for my 2000 XJ. Here is what I did, some steps are obvious, but oh well, it's not a day for the obvious haters...


Tools you will need besides jack and 4 way:
  • Jackstands - Jacks ARE NOT jackstands.
  • 13mm 12point wrench and socket.
  • Hammer
  • 3/16 punch - if you dont have one, I recommend getting one. It will save you hassle. Dont use drill bits, nails, or hacked screwdrivers.
  • 16mm socket.
  • 18mm 6 point socket. Strongly recommend 6 point, not 12 point.
  • Small flathead screwdriver
  • RTV Silicone
  • Gear Lube

Take the intial torque off both passenger and driver side tire's lugnuts with 4 way.
Jack up one side, put a stand uner the axle, jack up the other, put another jackstand. Make sure the vehicle doesn't rock.


Finish taking the tires off.
Remove the brake calipers. There is a 13mm bolt on the top and bottom on each side. When the calipers are removed, keep them from dangling from the brake line. This is a good time to inspect pads and get them replaced if you need to.


Now the bearing assemblies need to come out with the axle shaft. You will need your steering pointed straight forward. There are 3 13mm 12point bolts near the brake bolts that hold these assemblies on. I used a wrench since I can tell better if I'm doing damage to the bolt. You will probabaly need a hammer to coax the assembly from the knuckle, I did. Axles slide right out. This is a good time to inspect u-joints too.




A bunch of 13mm bolts hold the cover on to the carrier. Remove the cover and be prepared to catch gear lube in a small bucket. You may need a small screwdriver to break the lip of the cover loose from the axle.


I have stock gears on my XJ, 3.55. I removed the carrier, it's heavy. There is some concern about changing the settings of backlash when removing the carrier, but I was careful to put this back together the exact same way it came apart. This means I kept track of left and right bearing caps, thier orientation from top to bottom, and even which bolts (16mm) went into the top hole and the bottom hole. Also, which bearing races were left and right. I did not have any shims to keep track of.


The gear can be removed from the carrier, there are 18mm bolts that are torqued good. This is where I recommend the 6point 18mm. Some rings are reverse thread bolts, THIS IS NOT REVERSE THREAD. So leftly loosy gets the job done, and the ring comes off. It needs to come off to remove the cross shaft on my gears, some other gears I dont think it has to, ie 3.07. Take care of this ring, it will bust if you drop it on cement. I also made note of where the ring was comapared to the carrier. For example, on the flange side there was a 1 circled, and it lined up with the end of the word DANA stamped on the ring. When I put it back together it went back the same way.

Now for one of the little bastards of this project, the rollpin that holds the cross shaft in. Take your 3/16 punch, and from the passenger side, knock the rollpin out to the driver's side. The second pic below is a dark pin on dark carrier, you may need to zoom in to see it. Now the cross shaft comes out, remove it with a couple hammer taps.




With the cross shaft out, the spider gears can be removed. Keep the two thrush washers from the large gears, and remember which is left and right, they are reused with the powertrax couplers (they have splines). So insert the couplers with the thrust washers behind them.



Next we have the drivers, and the spacers. Drivers are large, spacers fit inside them, and the spacers face open end out toward the tires to cup the axleshaft when they are reinserted. The teeth of the driver point toward the teeth of the couplers you just installed.

You will need to put the pills in thier holes. This is where it got tricky for me. If you dont use axle grease, (I dont mean lube I mean thick grease) these parts will slip and slide and fallout while you try to get everything back together. Use axle grease and put a dap on the pills, and put a coat on the teeth of the drivers. Axle grease will also hold your spacers inside the drivers nicely. If you dont, the spacers can get in your way when you are trying to put the cross shaft back in. I had to put the passenger side in first (closest to the ring), then the other. Turn everything so you can put the cross shaft back in. DONT FORGET THE ROLLPIN. If you messed up the rollpin trying to get it out, you should be able to find a replacement at the parts or hardware store. If you think the rollpin is loose when you put it back in, REPLACE IT.




Now the springs need to be put in. These are dual spings, meaning theres an inner and an outer. With your small screwdriver, slide the pill over into the other driver. Slide both springs in at the same time. The screwdriver can push them in all the way, and they end up seating towards the outside of the carrier. My model had 4.




Here there are no more pictures. Most everything else is reverse.

I put the ring back on the same orientation it was pulled off. Its a good idea to put bolts back in at 12 then 6 o'clock, then 3 and 9 o'clock etc, and when finished, go back over them all.

Making sure the ring is clean, I put the entire carrier back in the exact same way I took it out.

I put the axles shafts and bearing assemblies back in, and tested everything out. Worked fine.

Then I put calipers on. I cleaned up the diff housing, scraping old RTV off of it as well as the cover. Clean bead of RTV, and I got the bead a little wet. RTV uses moisture from the air to cure, and a little moisture added makes it cure thuroughly and a bit quicker. I do this when I'm using a bunch, since the outside can seal and prevent moisture from curing the rest.

I put the diff cover back on, and put in a bottle of lube. I put the tires back on, took it off the jackstands, and did a final torque on the lug nuts.

Done. About 90 minutes. I can tell front is locked when steering.

Last edited by SammySmalls; March 26th, 2011 at 05:05 PM.
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Old March 19th, 2011, 07:58 PM   #2
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I did that install about a year ago now and it wasn't all that hard to do. Nice write up tho man very detailed. With having the front locked be careful with tire size and type. I ran 36 TSL radials with no real problems didn't break any axle shafts or ujoints then I went to 35 boggers and started breaking axle shafts, u joints and now a ring and pinion. Kinda pain in the ass now with everthing breaking but you pay to play
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Old March 19th, 2011, 08:07 PM   #3
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great write up, this needs to be a sticky thread
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Old March 20th, 2011, 07:11 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wally431 View Post
I did that install about a year ago now and it wasn't all that hard to do. Nice write up tho man very detailed. With having the front locked be careful with tire size and type. I ran 36 TSL radials with no real problems didn't break any axle shafts or ujoints then I went to 35 boggers and started breaking axle shafts, u joints and now a ring and pinion. Kinda pain in the ass now with everthing breaking but you pay to play
Thanks. I've got 33" boggers, and tried this out yesterday on a messy seasonal road. So far it's a great investment. When I engaged 4H and it locked, I could definately tell which tire was lower pressure in the front, it took a right turn. It's nice that it unlocks when the 2H is enagaged, I dont know if this is specific to Powertrax, but its cool. I'll definately keep tools and parts to change U joints with me.
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Old March 26th, 2011, 03:02 PM   #5
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nice
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