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Old March 22nd, 2011, 07:25 AM   #101
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Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
That is the location of the factory sender, and a possibility as well. But would require me to either buy an adapter, or break/mill/drill/tap the original sender to accept the new one. This worked fine for free..


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Old March 22nd, 2011, 07:43 AM   #102
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Save money, fuck bitches.
How I roll..



Its probably the more common spot to put the sender, also. There isn't going to be a ton of room between the very back of the engine and the firewall, where I have the engine placed in the CJ's engine bay, also. Was worried about the sender bumping into the firewall and getting broken off.
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 08:43 AM   #103
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I faced the coolant temp w/ stock gauges dilemma in my '84 Monte SS & LS1 conversion. I bought and re-threaded two stock senders. The Auto Zone part crumbled, the NAPA part held up. Aside from packaging, they looked identical. Getting a good seal required some patience, as to not over-torque and break the modified sender. All is well so far.
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 09:01 AM   #104
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Originally Posted by 89xjr View Post
good job with that stud.
I hate doing those things. Snap off the extractor and its a real mess. Luckily, that bolt, I'm guessing broke from heat shearing, not from twisting it off. It was broken when I got it.

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I faced the coolant temp w/ stock gauges dilemma in my '84 Monte SS & LS1 conversion. I bought and re-threaded two stock senders. The Auto Zone part crumbled, the NAPA part held up. Aside from packaging, they looked identical. Getting a good seal required some patience, as to not over-torque and break the modified sender. All is well so far.
I have a copper crush washer, so I'm hoping that will make a good seal. I have seen on another write up where someone re-threaded my exact sender with good results.

Did you cut yours with a single point on a metric lathe, or with a die?
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 09:33 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Interesting. I picked up my oil pressure right at the back of the block above the bell housing.
It was questioned if it was needed or not a few posts ago; so did you run both the stock sender and the aftermarket or just the aftermarket?



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Here's the pics of doing the oil pressure sender. First drilling it out. Its wierdly angled, so you need to fixture it to be angled in 2 different planes. I screwed it to a piece of wood to help hold it. Set your drill stop to not go too deep.
Thanks for the pics on how you drilled this out.
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 09:38 AM   #106
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My understand is the stock oil sender is not needed, but the stock water temp sender is. Not really hurting me to leave anything there, since I have alternate locations for the senders.

The factory water temp sender is in the front of the drivers side cylinder head. Since the heads are the same on each side, there's a matching port on the back of the passenger head with a plug in it. Thats where I'm trying to put the aftermarket sender.
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 09:53 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
My understand is the stock oil sender is not needed, but the stock water temp sender is. Not really hurting me to leave anything there, since I have alternate locations for the senders.

The factory water temp sender is in the front of the drivers side cylinder head. Since the heads are the same on each side, there's a matching port on the back of the passenger head with a plug in it. Thats where I'm trying to put the aftermarket sender.
The PCM does look for the stock temp sender, I just haven't talked to anyone that actually has eliminated the stock oil sender.

As far as the other port on the passenger side head, I am pretty sure I drilled and tapped it for a 1/8" pipe and then bushed it down to the Auto Meter temp sensor. I can double check when I get home from this trip if you need it.
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 10:02 AM   #108
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The PCM does look for the stock temp sender, I just haven't talked to anyone that actually has eliminated the stock oil sender.

As far as the other port on the passenger side head, I am pretty sure I drilled and tapped it for a 1/8" pipe and then bushed it down to the Auto Meter temp sensor. I can double check when I get home from this trip if you need it.
Its presently 12mm, so would need to be drilled likely to fit 1/4 NPT or 3/8 NPT. What did you do you keep shavings out of the head?

I know people coat the taps with grease but the drilling process is messier. I might go this route.

1/4" NPT needs a 7/16 drill, which is 11.11mm. The hole in the head is 12 mm. Not sure if it'd seal well. ITs got an outside thread diameter of 0.54" - 13.72mm, think the root diameter is under 1mm, though..

3/8" NPT uses a 9/16 (37/64s to be proper) which is 14.28mm..
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 10:06 AM   #109
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I did the grease method and it worked very well. It was not messy, but then again I used the minimum amount of grease I thought would be effective.

I will look this weekend to see what I used (I still have the tap and drill bit), but 37/64" sounds familiar; probably was the 3/8" NPT.
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 11:02 AM   #110
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Quote:
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Did you cut yours with a single point on a metric lathe, or with a die?
done on a lathe
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 11:28 AM   #111
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Scramblers are my favorite, looks like a sweet build.
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 12:15 PM   #112
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John D View Post
The PCM does look for the stock temp sender, I just haven't talked to anyone that actually has eliminated the stock oil sender.

As far as the other port on the passenger side head, I am pretty sure I drilled and tapped it for a 1/8" pipe and then bushed it down to the Auto Meter temp sensor. I can double check when I get home from this trip if you need it.
the wire harness we got back from jims performance for beckys jeep doesn't even have the wiring to plug into the stock oil sender. jims eliminated it, so i guess its not needed.
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 12:23 PM   #113
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Thanks, I guess that answers the question.
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 12:33 PM   #114
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I don't remember running across any parameters that use would use the oil sending unit. The coolant temp is definitely used to determine open vs closed loop and spark advance vs coolant temp FWIW.
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 01:08 PM   #115
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done on a lathe
I need to run over to mine to see what gear combos I have. There isn't a setting on my GC gearbox that gets me close, I need the 127 tooth gear to get metric threads...
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Old March 26th, 2011, 10:58 AM   #116
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It was the 3/8" NPT and a 37/64" drill bit.

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Old March 27th, 2011, 03:56 PM   #117
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LOL, I fubared another sender. The sender bit is a bit too thin wall to handle being chucked in the lathe Anyway, got another coming, hopefully I can keep the 3rd one alive...

In the mean time, I put the wiring harness back on the engine. Unfortunately, I got to the very last plug to connect, the alternator and the plug is wrong. Hmm, I need to call Jim's to see what happened. Hope he can send me a pigtail or something I really don't want to take the whole harness off again and send it back.

So, I put the engine and trans into the Jeep. First time its been in there all welded up. I need to fab up a trans crossmember, then its time to start in on all the plumbing and wiring work.




Started modifying the stock drive-by-wire pedal today, too. It was about 6 inches too far to the center of the Jeep to work, so I cut it and flipped it around. Need to finish welding it and cleaning up the excess metal, but I'm doing it in small pieces to not get it too hot, since there are some electronics on there.

Not a great pic but you get the idea. It used to bend to the right instead of the left.

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Old March 27th, 2011, 06:30 PM   #118
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Looking Good! Cant wait to hear it up and running!!
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Old March 28th, 2011, 03:33 PM   #119
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Talked to Jim's today, sounds like the wrecking yard much have put the 04 and earlier alternator on my motor, the 05-07s like mine should have a 2 pin plug.
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Old March 31st, 2011, 02:42 PM   #120
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Got my new sender. I ran a boring bar through the autometer adapter fitting, and was able to get the sender to fit through it OK without touching the sidewalls. Its really hard to do with a twist drill unless you have the correct letter sized drillbits, and have a way to perfectly center the drill to the existing hole. Even with my mill, using the table, it was tough. I could have chucked the drillbit in the lathe's tailstock, but the boring bar let me step the hole size up slowly until it was just big enough. Screwed into the engine, and all set.

Also got a new seal kit today for the dana 300, and a new defroster duct, and a trans temp gauge. I need to read up on the best spot for the trans temp sender.



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