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Old February 14th, 2011, 12:48 AM   #81
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I have my headers sealed with copper permatex stuff. No issues at all. It was done because I did not have time to wait for gaskets before heading to silver lake last summer. No leaks yet
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Old March 1st, 2011, 02:00 PM   #82
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I have my headers sealed with copper permatex stuff. No issues at all. It was done because I did not have time to wait for gaskets before heading to silver lake last summer. No leaks yet
The feedback from people on Pirate was positive for the sandersons sealed this way, so thats how I'll do it.

Haven't touched it much in the last couple weeks. I got the rest of the HVAC ductwork cleaned out and bolted back together.

The trans should be done any day now, needed more work than I originally planned on. My fuel system parts are mostly arriving today. I've got a corvette filter/regulator, and got the dorman quick connect fittings that I can use with regular fuel injection hose and clamps.
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Old March 2nd, 2011, 06:11 PM   #83
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Here's the fuel parts:

AC Delco GF822 Filter / Regulator
Dorman hard line with flare - #800-158
Dorman 3/8" quick connect repair part x 2 - #800-121
Dorman 5/16" quick connect repair part - #800-120

From the tank, there will be high pressure fuel hose that goes to one of the 3/8" quick connects. Note that those have two flares on them, so they will receive two fuel injection hose clamps.

The 5/16" fitting will feed a low pressure return line back to the tank.

The 12" long hard line will be cut in half, so one end will go into the output fitting on the fuel filter. This could be flared and connected to a 3/8" hard line to feed forward to the engine.

At the engine, I'll run a piece of high pressure hose to the rail, which will have the other 3/8" quick connect.

I'll run as much hard line as possible, just using short pieces of high pressure hose where I need to have a flexible section.



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Old March 3rd, 2011, 05:07 AM   #84
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Nearly identical to my set-up. If you don't want to try to flare the end coming out of the filter (towards the engine) Jegs offers a few pieces that snap into the output side of the filter/regulator that may give you other options.
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 05:49 AM   #85
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Same filter I'm using.
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 09:36 AM   #86
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Trans is done.
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Old March 3rd, 2011, 10:11 AM   #87
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Trans is done.
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Old March 21st, 2011, 09:40 AM   #88
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OK haven't updated anything in a while, went to Mexico for another week after the last update. Seems like everytime I start on something with it, there's some little piece i'm missing that takes longer... oh well.


So, got the trans back from Tranny Tom, thanks man! Got that installed this last weekend. The locking nuts on the converter bolts are too big and won't fit under the pads on the converter. Also, there's too much space between the pads and the flex plate when its fully seated, looked like around 5/16s. I mic'd out 3 0.082" washers, I will see if that gets me where I need to be, I believe I need no more than 3/16s so I might need thicker washers. Which I need longer bolts now too. etc, etc, etc... Anyway, its all bolted up except for the 3 converter bolts. I'll get them once its in the Jeep.

Here's a pic of the bushing which supports the snout of the torque converter. It just hammers into the crank.



I then installed the headers, using ultra-copper on the flanges as directed by sanderson. At this point, I found one broken exhaust bolt in the head..awesome. Lucklily, I was able to drill it out and use an extractor to get it out. New headers went on fine, I did need to clearance the bracket for the engine oil dipstick, no biggie.

Here's how it sits now.

I got the oil pressure sender done. Just above the oil filter, there's a little bypass plate where they can out on a remote filter or cooler or something. Mine has a boss on it that just needed to be finish drilled and tapped. The only thing I didn't like is its bored from GM just a bit bigger than it should be for tapping to 1/8-27 NPT. So I'll have to see if it seals, or if I need to mill off some of it and tap it further where its narrower.

Currently I'm trying to figure out the temp sender. The port on the head is M12-1.5mm. I had 2 senders, one is 3/8 NPT one is 1/8 NPT. I started out with an adpater from autometer, from M12 to 1/8NPT. This didn't work, as it needed to be bored out, and the sender turned down and still was a tight fit. I didn't want to do this, IMO, with the sender tight against the brass, I'd me reading more of the head temp than the water temp. Maybe I will try again, but I'd need to buy another sender.

So my next round of options are:

1) drill and tap the cylinder head to 3/8 NPT.
2) drill and tap the block heater plug
3) turn down my sender and try to thread it to M12-1.5

I really don't like drilling the head while its installed on the engine. I need to see if I can help the water passages 100% clean.

The heater plug would be easy, but I don't know how the water temp in the jacket compared to it at the cylinder head.

Turning the sender smooth is easy, but I don't have a metric lathe. 1.5mm pitch is 16.9TPI, which if I could do 17TPI, I'd be good, but I can only do 16 or 18 with my lathe. I'm not sure if I can get a die on there far enough to fully cut enough threads, though.


I think I will try rethreading the sender. I only need to get a few good threads, and then I have a copper crush washer to make the seal.

Here's a pic as it sits. At this point, I just need to reattach the wiring harness and put in the water temp sender and then it goes back into the Jeep, shoudl be in next weekend. I have pics of the sender work, I'll upload those tonight...

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Old March 21st, 2011, 09:50 AM   #89
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Can you find a m12-1.5 plug and tap that to a thread you can turn on your lathe onto the sender or will that be taking it too far down?
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Old March 21st, 2011, 09:51 AM   #90
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Do you have a pic of what you did with the oil pressure sender? I am considering re-doing mine, currently I have a "T" at the facotry location and it reads low on the aftermarket gauge.
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Old March 21st, 2011, 09:54 AM   #91
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Can you find a m12-1.5 plug and tap that to a thread you can turn on your lathe onto the sender or will that be taking it too far down?
To fit the sender, you have to turn the plug down quite a bit, to where some people have had issues with the plug/fitting crushing and ripping. I'll see. If I go that way, I end up needing to buy a new 1/8 NPT sender, since I ruined the first.

Since I wasn't going to use the 3/8NPT sender, I will try to convert it to M12 before buying another sender.
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Old March 21st, 2011, 09:55 AM   #92
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Do you have a pic of what you did with the oil pressure sender? I am considering re-doing mine, currently I have a "T" at the facotry location and it reads low on the aftermarket gauge.
Yes, but they are at home, I will post them tonight, I deleted them off my phone

The factory sender isn't needed by the engine, I don't think, you could pull it out and get rid of the T....
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Old March 21st, 2011, 02:24 PM   #93
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was wondering about the temp sender on beckys jeep also. was going to wait and see what comes with her gauges, but was kinda thinking about taking a metric bolt and drilling a good size through hole in it on the lathe and then tig welding some kind of steel fitting on it with a 1/4 npt
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Old March 21st, 2011, 03:02 PM   #94
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There's a place that does sell a steel adapter, I will see if I can find the link.

The root of the issue is the M12-1.5 hole doesn't give you much room to work.

The temp senders are usually around 8mm or so in diameter.

The root diameter of the M12-1.5 fitting is about 9.8mm. So drilling it out, you end up with wall thickness under 1mm. Some people have broken them off in the block. If you do want to go this route, there's the equus brand that are often sold in basic auto part stores that are already bored out.

I'm going to see if I can get M12-ish threads onto my spare sender. Since I destroyed my 1/8-27 NPT sender, I will use the 3/8-18 NPT as a guinea pig. I have an old south bend lathe, so I can turn the thread area down to 12mm. Just a question if I can get acceptable threads on it. I have seen this done with this exact sender, so I know it can be done. Just my lathe isn't set up for metric threads, or 17TPI. So, I'll see what I can do, need to go down to my barn with my lathe tonight to look through my tooling and gears to see what I can do.

I will post up what I figure out....
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Old March 21st, 2011, 03:03 PM   #95
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Quote:
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was wondering about the temp sender on beckys jeep also. was going to wait and see what comes with her gauges, but was kinda thinking about taking a metric bolt and drilling a good size through hole in it on the lathe and then tig welding some kind of steel fitting on it with a 1/4 npt

BTW, if needs to be 1/8 NPT, the 1/4 NPT is larger than the stock 12mm.
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Old March 21st, 2011, 05:23 PM   #96
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i was kinda thinking if the steel npt fitting was long enough, then the sender wouldn't have to go through the m12 bolt. just have i big enough hole in it so the sender could get coolant on it? maybe it wouldn't read the temp vary good
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Old March 21st, 2011, 09:00 PM   #97
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Here's the pics of doing the oil pressure sender. First drilling it out. Its wierdly angled, so you need to fixture it to be angled in 2 different planes. I screwed it to a piece of wood to help hold it. Set your drill stop to not go too deep.



The tap it to NPT1/8-27.




Bolted back onto the engine.





LOL, here's the f'ing exhaust stud. Came out without too much fuss, though..




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Old March 21st, 2011, 09:38 PM   #98
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Interesting. I picked up my oil pressure right at the back of the block above the bell housing.
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Old March 21st, 2011, 09:40 PM   #99
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good job with that stud.
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Old March 22nd, 2011, 06:49 AM   #100
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Interesting. I picked up my oil pressure right at the back of the block above the bell housing.
That is the location of the factory sender, and a possibility as well. But would require me to either buy an adapter, or break/mill/drill/tap the original sender to accept the new one. This worked fine for free..
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