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Old February 26th, 2011, 02:29 PM   #21
uglydodge
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Well I believe the general consensus is that the product name should be changed, the price needs to be around 75 bucks, and the product should be made in steel to make the audience feel better about the product. This is all great information that is very useful. I am investigating different manufacturing methods and I think I should be able to get the price inline. As for the name I would like to change it to Gearblock Lock, or Gearblock Axle Lock.

PS I had filed for patent about 8 months ago.

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Old February 26th, 2011, 02:32 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uglydodge View Post
Well I believe the general consensus is that the product name should be changed, the price needs to be around 75 bucks, and the product should be made in steel to make the audience feel better about the product. This is all great information that is very useful. I am investigating different manufacturing methods and I think I should be able to get the price inline. As for the name I would like to change it to Gearblock Lock, or Gearblock Axle Lock.
i agree with all these changes. steel would definately give me alot more of a warm fuzzy feeling than aluminum. i could see aluminum getting worn out too quickly.
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Old February 26th, 2011, 02:35 PM   #23
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Or, Gearblocker?

Pretty neat idea so far. I like it.
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Old February 26th, 2011, 06:35 PM   #24
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1018 = Tensile Strength, Yield 380 MPa 55100 psi Steel
6061 t651 = Tensile Strength, 324 MPa, 47000 psi alu
7075 t651 = Tensile Strength, 572 MPa, 83000 psi alum




copied this
While reading a couple of threads here and elsewhere recently the comments were made about a good hard grade of aluminum being a suitable substitute for mild steel. The aluminum mentioned specifically in one post was 6061-T6.

I've made more than a few parts out of 1018 CRS and am now wondering if the 6061 I have in stock would indeed be suitable. Some of the parts I make are tool posts and holders for small benchtop lathes.

AL 6061-T6(trash) and most low carbon merchant steels (C1015-C1020) will have very comparable yield and ultimate tensile strengths. If that is all you need to worry about, then weight and cost will be your deciding factors. However, steel has (roughly) 1X the tensile, shear, and tangent modulus of AL 6061-T6(trash) aluminum. That means that, for any given cross-section of the part, steel with be 1X more rigid than aluminum. More importantly (at least from my knothole as a design and development engineer), steel will "fight deformation" 1X harder than aluminum when you cross over the yield point as it stretches towards ultimate failure.

Additionally, steel will have a significantly greater shear stress capability than aluminum. This means that you get nearly 2X as much carrying capacity in a given thread engagement in steel as you do aluminum. This is the difference between a body-centered cubic crystal structure (LC steel) and a close packed hexagonal structure (aluminum). Anodizing aluminum will bring their properties in this regard closer (about a 2.2:1 advantage to steel). Unscaled merchant steel will have (about) 2X the (resistance to penetration) surface hardness of (6061-T6(trash)) non-anodized aluminum.

Although most people consider this counter-intuitive, aluminum will wear out (unhardened) steel in sliding wear. Bare aluminum oxidizes quite thoroughly. Aluminum oxide is one of the very common abrasives used. Anodizing will reduce this somewhat, but only somewhat. In most instances, a sulfuric anodize is really as good as a "hard (chromic) anodize." The hard chomic anodize will flake off with impacts whereas the sulfuric anodize will deform.

Weight is the final factor. 6061-T6(trash) aluminum has a density of .098 lb/in³. Most low carbon steels have a density in the .282 to .285 lb/in³ range.

My designation "T6(trash)" has to do with process specific treatments of aluminum. When it is solution heat treated to the T6 condition, most of your material properties are fully defined there. When given a stress-relief cycle after treating, it becomes "T651" temper. If you do a straightening process thereafter, it becomes a "T6511" temper. If you start with a "T6" bar or plate, it is generally worthwhile to heat it in an oven to (about) 450°F (20 minutes + 10 minutes/inch of thickness) and let it cool in the oven. Let it sit for at least 3 days before machining to allow the temper to fully reassert itself. You should not have to do this with either "T651" or "T6511" tempers unless you are trying to hold a parallelism value less than .0015 in/6 inches of length or width.



let me hardcoat anodize one for u or regular anodize.......cost would be on the house just to see how theyd turn out...(first 1) lol hell we can even lazer etch ur logo name or part# into it... pm if interested

plus its the only materialwe can hardcoat.......f.y.I Hardcoat anodize chips carbide endmills lol

just a thought

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Old February 26th, 2011, 09:10 PM   #25
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from a design standpoint your heading in the right direction. 2 issues i have with it so far. first is not enough tooth contact area for the side gears. i only see 3 side gear teeth engaged by the blocks. i would extend both sides down 1 more tooth to engage 5 side gear teeth. if your not sure what i mean i can edit your picture to show u.

aside from the material the blocks are made of my next suggestion has to do with the actual means of holding them in against the gears. you never did mention the size and grade of the bolts you are using.

my idea would do away with the bolts entirely as they seem to me to be a weak point. i would add material to the inside of the blocks and have a through hole in which the dif pin can slide through to retain the blocks. this i believe would be a much stronger means of attachment.
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Old February 26th, 2011, 09:25 PM   #26
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i would definatly buy one let me know when you have on for a dana 60 but i agree with making them out of a little bit stronger material and using stronger bolts
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Old February 26th, 2011, 10:03 PM   #27
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There is not a question of strength here, I already have tested the product, it works well. As far as the tooth engagement is concerned, there is a total of 8 teeth meshing together, 4 teeth per gear block, one gear block per side of diff. In a traditional carrier there are only 4 teeth contacting at any moment. Lincoln locking has been used for years, which is strong except the gears are so dang hard, the weld does not stick very well potentially falling out and wrecking literally everything in the differential. So, 8 teeth should do the job just fine. I have done some calculations to even back up the aluminum strength issue, it is just easier to manufacture the product using steel from a marketing stand point. This way no convincing is necessary, its just easier. The calculating that I did do is based on a 4140 axle shaft having a 1in diameter (which I am considering the weak link in a dana 44. This axle shaft shears around 1200ftlb. If you consider the cross sectional area of a gear block tooth and multiply that by 8 for the number of gear teeth in the mesh, the shear torque is ruffly 8800 ftlb. Having said that, the bolts only hold the blocks together, they are not subject to torsional forces. Because the gear blocks are designed to wedge into the spider gear arrangement at a 80 deg angle 90% of all rotational forces will strictly be in a rotational fashion, not in an outward fashion pushing the gear blocks out of the arrangement. The 4 bolts can handle about 55,000 lb in tensile load which is not an issue to take care of that 10% of the rotational 1200ftlb.

ps It is actually not possible to contact 2 or more full teeth on each spider gear because you would not be able to install them. (look straight down on the spider gear arrangement.)
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Old March 7th, 2011, 09:01 PM   #28
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this product look way nicer in person.
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Old March 7th, 2011, 09:25 PM   #29
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I dont care what it looks like it needs to put through some real world testing. I will put one in my XJ and let you know how it does.
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Old March 8th, 2011, 09:05 AM   #30
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Neat idea.
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Old March 8th, 2011, 09:24 AM   #31
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I think this is a great idea for guys that drive there rig everyday back and forth to work, and occasionally go wheelin. And don't mind 15 min to install before wheeling. I have a friend that I know would definately buy two. You might want to target more of the stock axle market. In my eyes these are going to be your biggest costomers. Guys with Dana 60s and 14bolts under there rigs probably don't drive them back and forth to work everyday. Guys like my buddy with a basically stock charekee and a small lift with 31s under it are the ones who don't want to put lockers in for streetability, but would love an option like this for those weekend wheeling trips. Good Luck, hope to see more on this
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Old June 7th, 2011, 07:04 PM   #32
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Get me one for a ford 9 inch for my mustang, if it holds up to a full launch on the street mud won't break it.
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Old December 1st, 2012, 08:50 PM   #33
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Have you made any more of these??
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Old December 1st, 2012, 09:30 PM   #34
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I forgot about this,I wanted to test one out. I just ended up buying a locker.
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Old December 1st, 2012, 10:15 PM   #35
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I just surfing around and found it. Wouldn't be a bad idea if I had lock outs.
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Old December 1st, 2012, 11:27 PM   #36
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uglydodge
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He kind of dropped of the face of the website... I would have paid for it and tried it if he was still around...
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Old December 2nd, 2012, 01:02 AM   #37
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Hes around. Not sure if he is interested in making these still though.
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Old January 5th, 2013, 07:57 AM   #38
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Default Gearblok Lock (fKA Hillbilly Locker)

Sorry All, I have been tied up for the past 9 months.
The current status on this idea is semi stagnant. I tested these to failure in the front of my 1990 dodge which I have since sold and replaced it with 1985. The 85 has a 60 frt end. This is the main reason for the decision since the dana 44 could not take the abuse. When I failed the locker blocks, i had been operating with one wheel drive in the front from a previous axle shaft break on the passenger side earlier in the day. It finally came apart at the same time I twisted the driver side axle shaft, precisely when my front wheels landed on some tractable hard pack from air born. I still have all the pieces, I will post pictures by sunday. I had some fitment issues on the old school dana 44's with the larger spider gear pin (used c-clips to retain the pin in the carrier. I have currently changed the design for the 60 axles, although I have not tested yet. I do have a couple sets of dana 44 lockers if anyone is interested, they work well in my opinion considering what i put the initial test through.
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Old January 6th, 2013, 01:36 PM   #39
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Default Collateral Damage

Here is the reason for the 60!
Inner shaft ujoint yoke twisted off and intermediate shaft splined end that carrier side gear fits twisted off, both on passenger side. The inner shaft driver side also sheared as well as twisted the hub end spline on the drivers side.

Gearblocks were also tattered.
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