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Old December 2nd, 2010, 11:31 PM   #1
xploder25
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Default Replace s10 torsion bars with coilovers?

It might sound like a dumb question but i've search and i don't think anyones tried or thought about it. Basically what i'm asking is if i took out my torsion bars and stock shocks, built shock towers, and mounted ~10" travel 2.0 maybe 2.5 if they would fit air shocks or coilover shocks, would it work? I know i wouldn't gain anymore travel than stock but it would have a better progressive rate and would ride way better and let the suspension cycle freely. It would be like a newer vehicle with IFS and coilover/struts instead of torsion bars. Would the stock upper and lower control arms be strong enough? I don't see why not because the torsion bars don't support the suspension any. What do you think?

its a 99 zr2 so i have cv shafts to worry about also

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Old December 3rd, 2010, 08:11 AM   #2
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I've never seen it done. You should be the first and let us know how it turns out.
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Old December 3rd, 2010, 09:06 AM   #3
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Damn, i was afraid to get that anwser. The only thing i can see why it wouldn't work is that the space for the shock to go threw the upper control arm is limited and might not allow much room for a longer and larger shock to fit in at a reasonable angle.
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Old December 3rd, 2010, 09:10 AM   #4
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Very true. When you install a suspension lift, part of the procedure is slightly trimming the a-arm to clear the shock. The stock a-arms are known to crack. BDS and Superlift make tubular upper a-arms that solve this issue and put the alignment of a lifted truck back in spec.
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Old December 3rd, 2010, 09:34 AM   #5
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Do those aftermarket upper arms come with 1" spherical ball joints though?
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Old December 3rd, 2010, 09:50 AM   #6
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I believe they use OEM balljoints. There are instructions posted for each lift type.

http://bds-suspension.com/product?ma...5&yr=1996-2005

http://www.superlift.com/Catalog.asp?P=K465&V=120
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Old December 3rd, 2010, 12:21 PM   #7
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I've heard bad things about the superlift arms and decent about the bds, but i could just weld plates on my stock arms to make them even stronger than bds arms.

I stole this from racedezert.com but this is all i could find on it.
"First: Try to find some heavy duty torsions, I was told Chevy had an option back east for a "snowplow bar" which was 30% stiffer than a stock bar due to the weight of the bolt on accessories.
Second: Remove all ball joints and replace with 1" uniball spherical bearings and cups and misalignment spacers. Also use limit straps to keep the CV's from binding because of more movement.
Third: Use a good shock 2.5" minimum, bypass tubes not required unless you race it.
Fourth: Gusset and plate the crap out of the arms.
Fifth: mount air bumps.
Sixth: Change out wheel studs to at least 5/8"
We did this and only got 9-10 inches of travel but you beat the crap out of it and it would hold together."

The only thing about this is that it would ride like a skateboard and only work for prerunning. I just want better ride quality and better suspension movement. I already have my sway bar off but with the torsion bars cracked 6 times 1.5" lift, i still can't get the suspension to compress all the way like it should. I don't even think i've hit the bump stops yet, i put low-pro bumpstops on too though.
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Old December 6th, 2010, 06:17 PM   #8
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I found a couple topics about this finally but still noone that has tried it, only been done on awd 1st gen's. This one has some pics and a little more info

http://www.s10extremist.org/forums/v...18232&start=15
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Old December 6th, 2010, 06:29 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xploder25 View Post
I've heard bad things about the superlift arms and decent about the bds, but i could just weld plates on my stock arms to make them even stronger than bds arms.

I stole this from racedezert.com but this is all i could find on it.
"First: Try to find some heavy duty torsions, I was told Chevy had an option back east for a "snowplow bar" which was 30% stiffer than a stock bar due to the weight of the bolt on accessories.
Second: Remove all ball joints and replace with 1" uniball spherical bearings and cups and misalignment spacers. Also use limit straps to keep the CV's from binding because of more movement.
Third: Use a good shock 2.5" minimum, bypass tubes not required unless you race it.
Fourth: Gusset and plate the crap out of the arms.
Fifth: mount air bumps.
Sixth: Change out wheel studs to at least 5/8"
We did this and only got 9-10 inches of travel but you beat the crap out of it and it would hold together."

The only thing about this is that it would ride like a skateboard and only work for prerunning. I just want better ride quality and better suspension movement. I already have my sway bar off but with the torsion bars cracked 6 times 1.5" lift, i still can't get the suspension to compress all the way like it should. I don't even think i've hit the bump stops yet, i put low-pro bumpstops on too though.


i can hit the bump stops for you if you'd like.
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Old December 10th, 2010, 07:33 PM   #10
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i can hit the bump stops for you if you'd like.
i've jumped it don't worry about that. It lands smooth with the suspension so stiff but i'm loosening the torsion bars 1 or 2 turns to get more up and down travel out of it.

I looked at my front suspension and mainly the shock mount location and using the stock shock mounts with 6" travel FOA coilovers, it would be at too much of an angle for the coilovers to handle the weight so i would have to run stiffer valving and springs just like my torsion bars now. The second option would be 8" travel FOA coilovers and build new shock mounts to get a better angle on the coilovers but the factory upper control arm can not be cut enough before i hit the balljoint.

It ain't happening. Too much work and money for the little performance i would gain.
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Old December 10th, 2010, 08:38 PM   #11
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And that's likely why its never been done.
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Old January 21st, 2011, 01:53 PM   #12
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have you scoped out dezertdimes (sp?) website? I'm sure somebody on one of these sites has to have done something similar.... although I bet 95% of them are all 2wd to begin with though...
I'd think 10" coil-overs would be way too excessive though, you don't need nearly that much travel.



But, this project sounds very similar to what I'm going to do with my Sierra... but luckily for me Brenthel makes a bolt on kit to swap out my torsion bars for a set of King coil-overs.
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Old January 21st, 2011, 01:57 PM   #13
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guys do it all the time on rangers
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 08:28 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedholes View Post
have you scoped out dezertdimes (sp?) website? I'm sure somebody on one of these sites has to have done something similar.... although I bet 95% of them are all 2wd to begin with though...
I'd think 10" coil-overs would be way too excessive though, you don't need nearly that much travel.



But, this project sounds very similar to what I'm going to do with my Sierra... but luckily for me Brenthel makes a bolt on kit to swap out my torsion bars for a set of King coil-overs.
Yeah i've been on dezertdimes, 2wd would make its easier since you don't have to work around a cv shaft.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerluc View Post
guys do it all the time on rangers
Do you have any links to 1998-newer 4wd rangers that have done this? I know rangers already have worse cv shaft angles than s-10s.
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