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Old January 18th, 2011, 09:33 PM   #81
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That's a decent price for the harness, what are you getting for $200 on the tune?
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Old January 20th, 2011, 11:58 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by jeepbrattt View Post
Just ordered from JBconversions



NP241C HD Super Short SYE
Part #16-1207-1945 -- $360.00 (w/1310 CV Yoke)
1310 cv yoke? You need 1350.
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Old January 20th, 2011, 01:12 PM   #83
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1310 cv yoke? You need 1350.
Absolutely!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old January 20th, 2011, 03:55 PM   #84
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Was told to get the 1310 and he's building shafts.
Has he seen you drive? CV's with 1310's are for mall crawlers. Those will go clickity, clickity, boom!
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Old January 20th, 2011, 04:09 PM   #85
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What are you saying Tim???? I'm so gentle on my heep. It has the 1310 in it now.....didn't go clickity, clickity , boom.

I know, bigger motor, more power, more stuff will break...I hear ya. Trying to stay within a kinda tight budget....if I go with 1350 I will need to buy a new shaft. $$$ is gettin kinda tight round these parts
Yes, I was referring to the difference in power between the I6 and the 6.0, not your manicured, almost delicate driving style. I hear ya' on the cash front.
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Old January 20th, 2011, 04:21 PM   #86
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If pinion angles are setup correctly the 1310 will hold up just keep an eye on them

I had to replace them about twice per year with the V8 in my rig.
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Old January 20th, 2011, 06:35 PM   #87
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That's a decent price for the harness, what are you getting for $200 on the tune?
The basic stuff:

'mail order' tune for premium fuel, rear O2 deletes, switch to manual trans configuration, remove VATS, few other things to ignore in there. I know there are people that are a few bucks cheaper, but he's got a good reputation, so thats what I went with..
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Old January 20th, 2011, 06:36 PM   #88
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If pinion angles are setup correctly the 1310 will hold up just keep an eye on them

I had to replace them about twice per year with the V8 in my rig.
You had to replace the V6 twice a year
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Old January 20th, 2011, 07:54 PM   #89
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If pinion angles are setup correctly the 1310 will hold up just keep an eye on them

I had to replace them about twice per year with the V8 in my rig.
WRONG!!!! Why would you even want to "keep an eye on them" when you know they are a weak link?

Becky,
Tim is absolutely right. You're spending all this money (and time) with a complete new driveline. You like to drive hard and you will only drive it harder with the new HP. (been there, done that) You are defining a weak link right from the get-go. Go to Pirate and look at any hardcore build and you will NEVER see 1310 joints. In my opinion, you are making a huge mistake when the cost difference now is minimum. Go big or go home.

Last summer, when I still had my NP231 in my jeep, I had one 1310 joint on the front output and all the rest had been upgraded to 1350's. We were at the Badlands running Troy's private property and an hour into the day.............BANG!

Guess which one, and only one joint ruined my day running an area that is extremely rare to get to. The statement that if the angles are right is bullshit. This was on my upper of my front driveshaft that has ZERO articulation because of the carrier bearing. It BROKE.

Serious discussion here............. do it right.
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Old January 20th, 2011, 08:02 PM   #90
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find a 1 ton, buy the shafts, shorten them up and fluid balance them. sell your old ones and you'll probably wind up profiting from the whole deal, I'd think.
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Old January 20th, 2011, 08:15 PM   #91
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You had to replace the V6 twice a year
That's funny....








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so yeah what Ross said...
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 08:56 AM   #92
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You don't have much choice on fuel pumps. Most EFI electric fuel pumps run in the 40-50 psi range. Your engine requires 60 psi. So, the factory in tank pump is what you need. You will also need the factory fuel regulator and return lines.

Everybody will argue about radiators. I bough my aluminum one from Howe Racing up by Midland. Tell them what you need with size constraints and they will build what you need. Don't forget the steam port.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 09:56 AM   #93
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Fuel pump options:

Use the stock pump for the 6.0. This is the route I'm going to try to do with mine. I have the fuel pump moduel from my engine donor.

Use a late style TJ fuel pump, which I believe is the 04-06, they upped the fuel pressure in the last couple years to 59 psi which is correct for the 6.0.

Use an external pump, like the E8248. Puts out twice the volume and higher pressure than the E2000s.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 01:25 PM   #94
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E8248 for the pump, or a Bosch 044..... I have the first, the second will be what I do next.

You'll need at least a 19x22 double pass "chevy" style radiator. Run a surge tank style system and it'll take care of itself. A bigger rad is better but you can't always fit it and for a trail rig, it's not worth worrying about.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 01:45 PM   #95
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I just read this whole thread and this jeep will be sick. I know how well those motors push the truck they originally came in i can not imagine what it can do for a jeep. Nice build.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 01:57 PM   #96
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becky call up becool. they are local to me and just down the street. they seem to be pretty popular in the car world and very nice people.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 02:58 PM   #97
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a crankshaft spacer, not a sensor. ls motors crankshaft doesn't stick out as far as older smallblocks, so you need a spacer if you run an older transmission.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 03:16 PM   #98
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So what this thing going to be done by Dog Party after all?
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 05:22 PM   #99
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I just read this whole thread and this jeep will be sick. I know how well those motors push the truck they originally came in i can not imagine what it can do for a jeep. Nice build.
No it won't. 6.0's run so-so at best and then to make it worse it's gonna be driven by a girl. Be lucky to keep up with a 4 cyl.
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Old January 23rd, 2011, 05:35 PM   #100
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Originally Posted by fabricator View Post
a crankshaft spacer, not a sensor. ls motors crankshaft doesn't stick out as far as older smallblocks, so you need a spacer if you run an older transmission.
Yup. In fact, on a lot of 6.0/4L80e combos had that spacer as an OEM piece, because they didn't make a longer snout 4L80e.

Make sure you get the longer crankshaft bolts as well to go with it.
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