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Old November 14th, 2010, 11:33 PM   #1
chevyk10
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Default 92 F150 straight 6 engine stalling out

So my truck ran absoluetly perfect today until I let it sit for about 8 hours, and now everytime I go to accelerate the engine kinda surges and acts like its gonna stall out for a split second and then keeps running fine. It doesn't seem to have any problems when I rev it up when its in neutrul, just happends when I'm in gear and accelerating, especially up hills. Its got the 300 straight six with the Mazda the 5 speed manual.

The truck does have an oil leak and it will usually start to act like this if its low on oil, but I checked the oil and its full. I also checked the trans and it was full too. I recently ran it pretty low on fuel before refilling it, so I'm starting to think that maybe the fuel filter got clogged up or something is going wrong with the fuel system? I also heard something about vaccum hoses going bad and causing this. I do know that there are 2 small hoses the lead to the intake that are dry rotted completely through.

I also gotta ad in that it almost seems like its been getting poor gas milage lately too, maybe 11 - 12mpg, when the last straight 6 I had got about 15 - 18.

This guy seems to be having a similar problem: http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewt...p?f=58&t=88070

Anyone have any ideas??? This truck is my daily driver so I need to fix it ASAP.

Last edited by chevyk10; November 14th, 2010 at 11:59 PM.
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Old November 17th, 2010, 06:05 PM   #2
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Definitely replace those vacuum lines, and any others that are cracked. Worn out lines like that will cause a bad vacuum leak. Replace the fuel filter and see if that helps. When's the last time it had a tune-up? Start with the simple stuff first.
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Old November 18th, 2010, 10:42 AM   #3
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Replacing the fuel filter is a fairly cheap and easy thing to do (at least for everything else I've done, I can't imagine one for these trucks would be $$$ or hard). It's also just part of maintenance.

I had a jeep that did something similar and it wasn't vacuum advancing at all. It really fell on it's face accelerating and starting, but would rev up fairly fine in neutral. Though it ran somewhat poorly at speed, but it did manage to stay continuous. I've always thought vacuum should be in the low 20's.

Both of which are somewhat cheap and easy fixes and if some of your lines are rotted should be done anyways.

Those years are fuel injected right? There's a little cap on the fuel rail like a tire stem end. Undo the cap and press it (watch your eyes!). That'll bleed the fuel rail and make sure there's no air in it.
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Old November 19th, 2010, 09:44 AM   #4
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If its not fixed after the tune-up and vac lines, get your ignition control module tested.

Does it pop and miss at idle and low throttle? It could be the pick up sensor in the distributor. But I wouldn't call it that until everything else clears(cause you have to tear the distributor apart). This does make it feel like its running out of gas.

I've gone through this same nightmare in a few Fords. Its been because of bad ICMs, pick up sensors, and once a bad fuel pump relay. Also had a bad vac line to the MAP sensor on a '95 F150 do this.
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Old November 19th, 2010, 02:05 PM   #5
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If its not fixed after the tune-up and vac lines, get your ignition control module tested.

Does it pop and miss at idle and low throttle? It could be the pick up sensor in the distributor. But I wouldn't call it that until everything else clears(cause you have to tear the distributor apart). This does make it feel like its running out of gas.

I've gone through this same nightmare in a few Fords. Its been because of bad ICMs, pick up sensors, and once a bad fuel pump relay. Also had a bad vac line to the MAP sensor on a '95 F150 do this.
Hey Dan haven't talked to you in a while. Yeah I thought for a while that it was a distributer problem, but now I'm starting to think someone poured some shit in my gas tank. I ran the tank dry and refilled it a couple times and now its running fine. Its starting to rev up every so often on its own though so I'm assuming that's an issue with the rotted vaccum hoses leading to the intake.
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Old November 20th, 2010, 09:49 AM   #6
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Put a good tank additive in, like Chemtool(white with blue/red. about $4). It can attach to crud and moisture, break it down, and pass it through. After you run the tank through, change the fuel filter. Do you have any holes in the top of the tank that water might be splashing into?

And definitely go over and replace all the bad vacuum hoses. I think Autozone has a vac gauge in their loan-a-tools.
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Old November 20th, 2010, 12:18 PM   #7
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Yeah I know for sure its got a hole somewhere towards the top, and I haven't tried any additives or anything yet but I'll try it. Last night I went out to start it and it just won't start at all now, won't even sputter or anything. I checked and it has spark, I know its getting fuel, and all the wires to the fuel injection system look at be intact.

Update:
I just checked the timing and it seems to be off, so I'm gonna tear into it tonight and see if the timing chain has decided to take a shit on me. Does anyone know if I have to drain the oil before taking the timing chain cover off?

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Old November 20th, 2010, 06:29 PM   #8
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Has timing gears. And as far as I know, the oil pan is attached into it so yeah, you need to drain the oil. I wonder if your distributor gear wore off from lack of oil.
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Old November 20th, 2010, 07:59 PM   #9
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Has timing gears. And as far as I know, the oil pan is attached into it so yeah, you need to drain the oil. I wonder if your distributor gear wore off from lack of oil.
Well the rotor turns when I crank the motor so I don't think thats the case. It has spark but its very weak. And now that I think about it I've been hearing a light ratteling sound coming from the front of the motor (by where the timing chain is) for the past month now. My best guess is that the timing chain is really loose and somehow threw off the timing.
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Old November 21st, 2010, 07:44 AM   #10
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Has timing gears. And as far as I know, the oil pan is attached into it so yeah, you need to drain the oil. I wonder if your distributor gear wore off from lack of oil.
Do I have to take the oil pan off too then?
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Old November 21st, 2010, 12:40 PM   #11
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this engine does not have a timing chain, they are gear to gear. if i remember correctly the cam gear is composite materials which break down over time leading to engine failure because teeth erode and skips time. to get into the timing case, drain radiator and remove, remove harmonic balancer, and remove timing cover.

oil does not have to be drained if you are careful to not let any debris get into the pan.
be prepared for the gears to put up a fight if they need to be removed.
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Old November 21st, 2010, 03:40 PM   #12
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this engine does not have a timing chain, they are gear to gear. if i remember correctly the cam gear is composite materials which break down over time leading to engine failure because teeth erode and skips time. to get into the timing case, drain radiator and remove, remove harmonic balancer, and remove timing cover.

oil does not have to be drained if you are careful to not let any debris get into the pan.
be prepared for the gears to put up a fight if they need to be removed.
Well after pulling everything apart, the timing gears are perfect. I have no fuckin idea why this truck won't run. Its got spark, air, and fuel, but yet it will not turn over. Any other ideas?
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Old November 21st, 2010, 03:49 PM   #13
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there are two tick marks on the cam gear and crank gear, turn the engine over by hand to line them up. if you cant then you jumped time.

however if you can get them to line up right, i would check the ignition control module. had one go out on my '90 F250 and it produced "weak" spark if any at all. if that checks out, i would check the ignition coil, they go out quite often on these motors.
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Old November 21st, 2010, 03:54 PM   #14
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Quote:
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there are two tick marks on the cam gear and crank gear, turn the engine over by hand to line them up. if you cant then you jumped time.

however if you can get them to line up right, i would check the ignition control module. had one go out on my '90 F250 and it produced "weak" spark if any at all. if that checks out, i would check the ignition coil, they go out quite often on these motors.
Yeah the marks line up perfect so timing can't be the problem. I'm gonna take the ignition module to auto zone tonight and have it tested. My friend noticed that it had a pretty weak spark too, but said that as long as there is spark the ignition module and coil are working fine. Is that true?
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Old November 21st, 2010, 04:03 PM   #15
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no, if the ignition spark is weak then there wont be enough energy to jump the gap on the plug, resulting in a no start condition. the engine you have is a speed density setup, which means that there is a pick up coil in the dist that sends a signal to the icm saying this is how many cylinders i am picking up, this is how many to fire. this signal is then relayed to the computer that charges and fires the coil.

if the icm isnt sending out the right signal, the computer cant tell how many cylinders are there resulting in a no start as the ign. coil isnt firing correctly. if icm is alright, test ign coil.
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Old November 21st, 2010, 06:51 PM   #16
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no, if the ignition spark is weak then there wont be enough energy to jump the gap on the plug, resulting in a no start condition. the engine you have is a speed density setup, which means that there is a pick up coil in the dist that sends a signal to the icm saying this is how many cylinders i am picking up, this is how many to fire. this signal is then relayed to the computer that charges and fires the coil.

if the icm isnt sending out the right signal, the computer cant tell how many cylinders are there resulting in a no start as the ign. coil isnt firing correctly. if icm is alright, test ign coil.
Well I decided to remove the ignition module and coil (like I should have done in the first place) and the stud on the ignition coil for the spark plug was completely burned through. I have the new coil but i'm gonna have to finish putting my engine together first tomorrow and then I'll let you guys know.
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Old November 22nd, 2010, 06:12 AM   #17
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Well I decided to remove the ignition module and coil (like I should have done in the first place) and the stud on the ignition coil for the spark plug was completely burned through. I have the new coil but i'm gonna have to finish putting my engine together first tomorrow and then I'll let you guys know.
you live and you learn. at least you know your timing gears are good though!
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