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Old September 26th, 2010, 08:45 AM   #1
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Default 8.8 swap

Anybody here experienced on these? I have the brackets ground off, all new parts shipped to me.
On a write up from Stu Olson's site, they mention bracket distances from the edge of the pig as from midpoint of the bracket. Is this midpoint along side edge front to rear or midpoint of rear of bracket?

I've had this since Labor day weekend and confidence level in my welds on anchoring points is holding me up, along with some laziness and a 2nd shift job, often 6days a week.

Does the offset of the pig cause vib problems, even with a SYE and CV?
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Old September 26th, 2010, 08:52 AM   #2
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Confidence in welds holding you up? Not a very good excuse since someone offered to weld them up for you.
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Old September 26th, 2010, 11:18 AM   #3
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I figured you had enough on your plate since the broken 35 episode
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Old September 26th, 2010, 11:33 AM   #4
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I've decided that jeep is sitting in the barn while I build some 60s. It only takes an hour to weld that stuff up if you have it all ground and ready to rock. Even easier if you tack it all up and I just have to burn it out. Just do small tacks and put them in easy spots for me to grind out before I weld it. Pm me when you are ready to do it.
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Old September 26th, 2010, 06:53 PM   #5
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Cool. I practiced some today(Lincoln 220v stick).
Guy up the street said I was running too low at 115-30 amps and to ramp it up to the 160 setting, but I was burning into metal depth practicing with 3/16 flat steel on 1" water pipe, which is probably too thin to duplicate the tubes.
I get good results at 115-30, but not consistent yet.
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Old September 26th, 2010, 07:04 PM   #6
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Cool. I practiced some today(Lincoln 220v stick).
Guy up the street said I was running too low at 115-30 amps and to ramp it up to the 160 setting, but I was burning into metal depth practicing with 3/16 flat steel on 1" water pipe, which is probably too thin to duplicate the tubes.
I get good results at 115-30, but not consistent yet.
pretty sure axle tubes are 1/4 on the 8.8

not hard to swap a 8.8 at all, its weird how everything goes together so nicely.
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Old September 26th, 2010, 07:07 PM   #7
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Never ever listen to your nieghbors welding advise!!! That is waaaaaay too hot! On something like that I would run 75 to 80 amps with 3/32. You don't want to penetrate all the way through like that all it does is make it brittle. You gap and bevel it.
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Old September 26th, 2010, 07:13 PM   #8
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3/32 is the stick? Hey, I'm a greenie with a used arcer my brother in law got from a bar buddy.

Gap and bevel?
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Old September 26th, 2010, 07:18 PM   #9
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Ill tell you what, when we put the brackets on that axle I will give you a quick lesson. I didn't know if you are doing a butt weld of fillet weld. Bw's you gap and bevel, fillet welds you just have to have as much weld thickness as the thinnest part you are welding too. Heat is important, each welding rod has an amperage range tyhat it is its strongest at. Way overheating metal only makes it weak. What rod type and size are you using?
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Old September 26th, 2010, 07:45 PM   #10
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What rod type and size are you using?
You need to take this kind of talk to pm's.

Please.
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Old September 28th, 2010, 12:29 PM   #11
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You need to take this kind of talk to pm's.

Please.
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Old September 29th, 2010, 10:35 AM   #12
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On Stu Olson's site, he gives angle figures for brackets, the writer using a 15deg pinion angle. I'm at 20 due to a 33 eng skid. He lists 0 degrees level for spring perches, LCA's.

Could I rotate the perches forward 5deg to take more of the arc out of the coils?
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Old October 2nd, 2010, 10:20 AM   #13
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On Stu Olson's site, he gives angle figures for brackets, the writer using a 15deg pinion angle. I'm at 20 due to a 33 eng skid. He lists 0 degrees level for spring perches, LCA's.

Could I rotate the perches forward 5deg to take more of the arc out of the coils?
You could put those perches on the bottom of the axle for all I care, however, I don't see any trouble with putting perches where they'll do the most good.
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