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Old August 9th, 2010, 10:11 AM   #1
Skooter_Built
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Rear 60 disk brake conversion; DIY or store bought kit?

I got a rear 60 that Im building and Im gonna convert it to disk brakes. Im wondering if its more cost effective & easier to buy a complete kit or round up the parts on my own? Whats easier and cheaper? I know for the main part to get some weld on caliper mounts (TAB), mid 80's Chevy 3/4 ton front rotors and calipers.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 11:02 AM   #2
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If you're doing custom brakes, why not get the best you can? Bigger rotors specifically.... Buying off the shelf parts is a lot easier but they dont always offer exactly what you want.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 11:15 AM   #3
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If all you're shooting for is 3/4 chevy parts, then from I've seen it's cheaper to piece together on your own.

But I agree with 95geo, if you're running > 15" wheels, I'd shoot for more brakes.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 12:07 PM   #4
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I got a rear 60 that Im building and Im gonna convert it to disk brakes. Im wondering if its more cost effective & easier to buy a complete kit or round up the parts on my own? Whats easier and cheaper? I know for the main part to get some weld on caliper mounts (TAB), mid 80's Chevy 3/4 ton front rotors and calipers.
Can't you just put a wood block under the tire? Untreated should be good for 3-5 years, I wouldn't spend the extra money for walmonized unless there is rust on the axle. I would spend the extra money then because you'll need to purchase a new rust free axle to replace it with.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 12:10 PM   #5
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Dana 60 brakes

This is the best way no cobling .


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...ts_Accessories
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Old August 9th, 2010, 12:12 PM   #6
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Old August 9th, 2010, 12:54 PM   #7
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11" rotors are the best, no question about it!
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Old August 9th, 2010, 01:11 PM   #8
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Quote:
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If you're doing custom brakes, why not get the best you can? Bigger rotors specifically.... Buying off the shelf parts is a lot easier but they dont always offer exactly what you want.
Quote:
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If all you're shooting for is 3/4 chevy parts, then from I've seen it's cheaper to piece together on your own.

But I agree with 95geo, if you're running > 15" wheels, I'd shoot for more brakes.
Im pretty sure that the chevy stuff Id like to run will be more then addiquite. The last brake setup were chevy brakes up front and currie 8.8 disks in the rear on 17" beadlocks and 36's. It stopped on a dime and performed well. I will most likely run slotted & drilled rotors and upgrade to a dodge 1 ton master but just cause I want to
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Old August 9th, 2010, 01:14 PM   #9
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More brakes the better! I hate to do it but I agree with Geo.

With my new V8 I can't hold the brakes and hit the gas to get a good bump it just creeps forward. With the new 1 tons I'll be putting bigger brakes on.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 01:34 PM   #10
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Ok with that said, what is a good bigger brake setup? I dont "think" 13" rotors and 6 piston calipers are necessary
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Old August 9th, 2010, 02:19 PM   #11
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first off why spend all that money on bling brakes for a rear 60? i would never buy a complete break kit when you can buy the chevy stuff for 1/2 the price.call great lakes or sunfire offroad and get the bolt on caliper brackets.76 chevy calipers and rotors.done. then spend a bunch of money on a carrier for 35 spline shafts..take the axle somewhere to get the end bored..then call ,spend more money on custom shafts....

should just get a 14 bolt!!!!!
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Old August 9th, 2010, 02:53 PM   #12
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first off why spend all that money on bling brakes for a rear 60? i would never buy a complete break kit when you can buy the chevy stuff for 1/2 the price.call great lakes or sunfire offroad and get the bolt on caliper brackets.76 chevy calipers and rotors.done. then spend a bunch of money on a carrier for 35 spline shafts..take the axle somewhere to get the end bored..then call ,spend more money on custom shafts....

should just get a 14 bolt!!!!!
Not this shit again I already know my rear axle set up, a HP60 thats getting converted to full width, full float and bored out for 35 spline shafts. Im perfectly set on using 70's-80's Chevy 3/4 ton front brake rotors and calipers in the rear as I know they will provide me with ample amounts of braking power, that what I have up front. Add in a pinion brake on the transfer case and I know I have plenty.

I was just asking if buying a complete kit or piecing things together on my own, which is the easiest. Seeing that most who have a 60 or 14bolt in the rear use 3/4 ton front chevy brakes stopping power isnt an issue.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 03:14 PM   #13
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Dana 60 or 14 bolt disc brake kit $315 shipped - Pirate4x4.Com Bulletin Board
This what I used came with all the parts and cheaper then I could piece it together for.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 03:31 PM   #14
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I have these on a few vehicles now works great with 76 style Chevy calipers and rotors

http://www.sinisterfabworks.com/shop...aspx?itemid=12

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Old August 9th, 2010, 03:45 PM   #15
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When I bought mine, this is what I went with: http://www.greatlakeoffroad.com/disc.html

I'm just starting with a 14B though
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Old August 9th, 2010, 10:13 PM   #16
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You might think the stock sized stuff is enough but unless you can lock the 40s up at 50 when the brakes are soaking wet then you really don't have "enough" braking.

I haven't driven my dads vehicle in the rain but based on the dry performance that is better than most factory vehicles, he has the best bang for the buck out there. He has calipers that most wouldn't buy and aren't needed but between the pads and rotors, you might have an extra $150 in it than your standard 1/2 ton setup on all 4 corners.

And Erin, brakes on the rear axle DO matter.... When you're in 4 wheel drive everything works together. When loading up the torque converter in low range, every bit helps and matters.
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Old August 9th, 2010, 10:15 PM   #17
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And Erin, brakes on the rear axle DO matter.... When you're in 4 wheel drive everything works together. When loading up the torque converter in low range, every bit helps and matters.
That's what I was trying to say

My 1/2 and 3/4 ton breaks won't hold the truck
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Old August 10th, 2010, 10:17 AM   #18
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i have had my calipers and brake kit hooked up for 3 years on my 14 bolt...just have not run any brake lines.....so i have run 3 years with no rear breaks. i can get away with it with a stick.i can understand what you are saying if you have a automatic.you need to hold it to let it rip!!

i don't understand how you can not piece together a rear break setup cheaper then these kits?
50 to 80 bucks for the caliper mounts.
76 calipers are like 18 bucks a piece.
rotors are like 20 a piece.
pads-8 bucks.
couple lines 40 bucks.
you can do it for around 150,200 bucks.(depends on your discount at your local parts store)
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Old August 10th, 2010, 11:03 AM   #19
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Chevy 1/2 ton calipers- $40/ea or wilwood D52 twin pistons- $170/ea
Dodge rotors for 5 or 8 lug- $50 or $75 Havent looked into 6 lug yet but the 5 lug is 13.25" and the 8 lug is 13.89"... perfect for 17" wheels.
Wilwood D52 BP-10 or BP-20 pads- $55/pr.

So about $500 for all 4 and you just need to buy or make some brackets.... You just need some quick alterations to some of the existing brackets out there and it's pretty easy to get them all set up.

Liv2mx, your prices are a little bit on the low side... To get setup with standard 1/2 or 3/4 ton stuff you'll be $300 easily....

And everyone needs to invest in GOOD brake pads.... I cant stress how much of a difference they make. Think of it as driving your car for the first time after letting a little surface rust build up on the rotors, the first time you hit the brakes they bite HARD, that's what good pads feel like all the time.
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Old August 10th, 2010, 11:09 AM   #20
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wilwood site says D52 only accept up to a 12" rotor. the still fit everything at the rotors you listed for 5 and 8 lug?
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