Go Back   Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest > General 4x4 Stuff > The Pub
GL4x4 Live! GL4x4 Casino

The Pub A friendly forum where everybody is nice, and will answer any questions you have about life.







Search
Reply
 
Thread Tools
Old March 29th, 2010, 12:22 AM   #1
barry1me
Just another day
 
barry1me's Avatar
 
Join Date: 06-09-06
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 2,889
iTrader: (9)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default looking to epoxy my garage floor, which brand?

I want to epoxy my garage floor, but it seems like everyone I talk to says there floor looks like poop a few years later. Anyone have good luck with it? If so which brand did you use, and what kind of prep work did you do?
barry1me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 06:49 AM   #2
Muttly
Senior Member
 
Muttly's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Mason, MI
Posts: 599
iTrader: (3)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

try this site:

Flooring - The Garage Journal Board
Muttly is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 07:18 AM   #3
Muddyfun73
Yooper
 
Muddyfun73's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-08-05
Location: Ishpeming, MI
Posts: 810
iTrader: (0)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Lot of times people put the Epoxy down on floors that sweat a lot of moisture, which causes bubbling and over time the bubble pop and tear. First thing to do is check how much moisture is coming through the concrete, lay a large sheet of clear plastic over the floor and leave in place for 24-48 hours. If it shows a lot of moisture underneath it. I'd look at another product than epoxy.
Muddyfun73 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 08:04 AM   #4
ovrlnd
HURL SCOUTS
 
ovrlnd's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-23-07
Location: Westland, Michigan
Posts: 10,003
iTrader: (14)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to ovrlnd
Default

I used U coat it when I built the garage. going on three years and holding up with zero issues. it carries a lifetime warranty if the surface is new and/or prepared correctly. I used the clear auto topcoat so that takes all the scuffs and you can always rough it up an apply more later. it's all in the prep of the floor and mine took 3 days to apply and 10 days after final coat before you can drive on it. I spent around $550 with discount to do a 24x24 ft. surface when I did it and it was money well spent. there was a local retail outlet for it on woodward and 15 but it closed down. this is a product that will allow the moisture to sweat through it. it will not affect the floor finish

prep is two muriatic acid washes, rinse, rewet the floor and apply the base coat. allow to dry 24-48 hours. next apply the second color coat and apply your accent flake and aluminum oxide grit and let sit 24-48 hours. then apply the clear automotive topcoat. let cure for 7-10 days

Last edited by ovrlnd; March 29th, 2010 at 08:34 AM.
ovrlnd is online now   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 08:41 AM   #5
RyeBread
Catch the wave
 
RyeBread's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-08-05
Location: Fenton
Posts: 7,945
iTrader: (2)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Sherwynn Williams - important have a CLEAN floor, and rent a mechanical scarifier. Acid etching isn't deep enough if you're going to put it to serious use.

Good friend of mine put it in his attached 2 1/2 car garage, and in his 2,500 sq ft shop. His wife used to be a sales rep, and they have done up to 200,000 sq ft industrial buildings with it.

There are of course different versions for different applications - SW has one that is safe for use around jetfuel as well...

http://www.contractortalk.com/f94/ga...coating-45557/ a cross section of opinions just in this thread.
RyeBread is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 08:42 AM   #6
barry1me
Just another day
 
barry1me's Avatar
 
Join Date: 06-09-06
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 2,889
iTrader: (9)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ovrlnd View Post
I used U coat it when I built the garage. going on three years and holding up with zero issues. it carries a lifetime warranty if the surface is new and/or prepared correctly. I used the clear auto topcoat so that takes all the scuffs and you can always rough it up an apply more later. it's all in the prep of the floor and mine took 3 days to apply and 10 days after final coat before you can drive on it. I spent around $550 with discount to do a 24x24 ft. surface when I did it and it was money well spent. there was a local retail outlet for it on woodward and 15 but it closed down. this is a product that will allow the moisture to sweat through it. it will not affect the floor finish

prep is two muriatic acid washes, rinse, rewet the floor and apply the base coat. allow to dry 24-48 hours. next apply the second color coat and apply your accent flake and aluminum oxide grit and let sit 24-48 hours. then apply the clear automotive topcoat. let cure for 7-10 days
do you know if U coat is water based or solvent based?
barry1me is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 08:50 AM   #7
Haggar
Covered in mud...
 
Haggar's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Oxford, MI
Posts: 17,557
iTrader: (54)
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Default

DO any of those coatings stand up to welding sparks/slag?
Haggar is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 08:57 AM   #8
ovrlnd
HURL SCOUTS
 
ovrlnd's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-23-07
Location: Westland, Michigan
Posts: 10,003
iTrader: (14)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to ovrlnd
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
do you know if U coat is water based or solvent based?
water based. the concrete has to be wet when you apply the first bond coat. the bond coat fuses to the concrete.
the prep I listed is for new concrete. you can apply to new pours after 30 days of cure. do not pour with sealers or
curing agents. if you do you'll have to grind it down. if you have existing stains
or if your floor was poured with a curing agent you will have to surface grind the floor. if the floor is used at all it would
be wise to grind it down first then use the prep method. I know it sounds like it sucks, but you will be much happier if you
take that time and avoid some ancient oil spill cause your floor to lift.

Look in my build thread and you can see the floor
Project Yancy 46 CJ2a Build - Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest

Quote:
DO any of those coatings stand up to welding sparks/slag?
the clear topcoat on mine takes all the abuse, not the color coat. if you are really close to the floor the slag will burn the topcoat. you can leave it
or I have taken a fine grit sandpaper and and just sanded it off. if you don't have the topcoat yes it may damage the weaker color coat.

Last edited by ovrlnd; March 29th, 2010 at 09:14 AM.
ovrlnd is online now   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 09:02 AM   #9
Pokerob
hug life
 
Pokerob's Avatar
 
Join Date: 10-25-06
Location: G-Rap, MI
Posts: 10,147
iTrader: (25)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ovrlnd View Post
water based. the concrete has to be wet when you apply the first bond coat. the bond coat fuses to the concrete.
was your garage floor smooth to begin? I want to coat my garage floor but i have some degeneration due to salt etc. I wonder if i would have to skim coat it first? or if it would just seal off the parts that have started to sand up a bit.

my garage floor sucks
Pokerob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 09:17 AM   #10
Tranny Tom
Switcheroo
 
Tranny Tom's Avatar
 
Join Date: 10-13-06
Location: Southfield
Posts: 3,810
iTrader: (55)
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Haggar View Post
DO any of those coatings stand up to welding sparks/slag?
All the ones I have seen so far don't hold up to that sort of abuse.
Tranny Tom is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 09:18 AM   #11
ovrlnd
HURL SCOUTS
 
ovrlnd's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-23-07
Location: Westland, Michigan
Posts: 10,003
iTrader: (14)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to ovrlnd
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokerob View Post
was your garage floor smooth to begin? I want to coat my garage floor but i have some degeneration due to salt etc. I wonder if i would have to skim coat it first? or if it would just seal off the parts that have started to sand up a bit.

my garage floor sucks
it is not thick enough to fill large pits. my concrete was brand new and with the exception of a few trowling swirls it was smooth. if you have pitting you can grind it down first, then I know ucoat it has a filler compound for filling deeper pits and cracks. any oil stains that are left untreated properly will cause no adherence in that area or lift shortly thereafter application. if it is not neutralized the water based coat cannot penetrate the oil and bond to the concrete.
ovrlnd is online now   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 09:28 AM   #12
gigbag
Rust never sleeps !
 
gigbag's Avatar
 
Join Date: 12-06-09
Location: Warren
Posts: 581
iTrader: (11)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Try these guys ! "EpoxyMaster" www.epoxymaster.com ... 586-246-7559
I work next door to these guys .. they do some cool stuff !
You can buy kits through Costco .. or they will come out and do custom floors !
They are not cheap , but I have seen them do some very cool cusom floors .. They can make it look like marble , slate , wood .... lots of colors also !

Tell them "Clif" sent you !
gigbag is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 09:51 AM   #13
SimpleManLance
rookie offroader
 
SimpleManLance's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-21-08
Location: Hartland MI
Posts: 254
iTrader: (7)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by barry1me View Post
I want to epoxy my garage floor, but it seems like everyone I talk to says there floor looks like poop a few years later. Anyone have good luck with it? If so which brand did you use, and what kind of prep work did you do?

as far as prep for garage floors i use a grinder with a dustless guard and diamond blade for the edges and bad spots. then i use a clarke floor maintainer with a custom attachment that hold diamond pucks. no water, no acid etching.

i use industrial grade 100% epoxy and have had excellent luck with it.
SimpleManLance is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 10:05 AM   #14
Pokerob
hug life
 
Pokerob's Avatar
 
Join Date: 10-25-06
Location: G-Rap, MI
Posts: 10,147
iTrader: (25)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ovrlnd View Post
it is not thick enough to fill large pits. my concrete was brand new and with the exception of a few trowling swirls it was smooth. if you have pitting you can grind it down first, then I know ucoat it has a filler compound for filling deeper pits and cracks. any oil stains that are left untreated properly will cause no adherence in that area or lift shortly thereafter application. if it is not neutralized the water based coat cannot penetrate the oil and bond to the concrete.
yea i have some penny sized pits, id say 25% of the floor is like that, im guessing from salt.

dont you think it would seal the pits (assuming i cleaned it like crazy) from pitting further? i really dont care about how it looks as long as it seals it from further water/salt damage.

im probably screwed but i just dont want to have to re-pour the floor in 5 years.
Pokerob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 10:18 AM   #15
DuffMan
Your Message Here
 
DuffMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: 11-05-05
Location: The Ile of Grosse
Posts: 5,836
iTrader: (11)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

I get a fair amount of moisture that comes up through my attached garage floor in the spring and somethimes in the fall - so it sounds like epoxy may be a bad choice.

What are my other options?
__________________
This is the Pub. Leave common sense at the door.
DuffMan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 10:19 AM   #16
SimpleManLance
rookie offroader
 
SimpleManLance's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-21-08
Location: Hartland MI
Posts: 254
iTrader: (7)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokerob View Post
yea i have some penny sized pits, id say 25% of the floor is like that, im guessing from salt.

dont you think it would seal the pits (assuming i cleaned it like crazy) from pitting further? i really dont care about how it looks as long as it seals it from further water/salt damage.

im probably screwed but i just dont want to have to re-pour the floor in 5 years.
i can make those pits pretty much disappear.
SimpleManLance is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 10:28 AM   #17
ovrlnd
HURL SCOUTS
 
ovrlnd's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-23-07
Location: Westland, Michigan
Posts: 10,003
iTrader: (14)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to ovrlnd
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokerob View Post
yea i have some penny sized pits, id say 25% of the floor is like that, im guessing from salt.

dont you think it would seal the pits (assuming i cleaned it like crazy) from pitting further? i really dont care about how it looks as long as it seals it from further water/salt damage.

im probably screwed but i just dont want to have to re-pour the floor in 5 years.
it would coat in the pits for sure yes. make them level, no. SimpleManLance is correct. if you are going to spend the cash, I would grind the floor flat first.
ovrlnd is online now   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 10:29 AM   #18
Pokerob
hug life
 
Pokerob's Avatar
 
Join Date: 10-25-06
Location: G-Rap, MI
Posts: 10,147
iTrader: (25)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SimpleManLance View Post
i can make those pits pretty much disappear.
but your 2 hours away. I am a diy'er and if it can be skim coated or something like that i will probably do that and then coat it. but i was hopeing to just coat it and be done with it.
Pokerob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 10:45 AM   #19
ovrlnd
HURL SCOUTS
 
ovrlnd's Avatar
 
Join Date: 03-23-07
Location: Westland, Michigan
Posts: 10,003
iTrader: (14)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Send a message via AIM to ovrlnd
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokerob View Post
but your 2 hours away. I am a diy'er and if it can be skim coated or something like that i will probably do that and then coat it. but i was hopeing to just coat it and be done with it.
http://ucoatit.com/pgs/main.htm
http://ucoatit.com/pgs/main.htm
ovrlnd is online now   Reply With Quote
Old March 29th, 2010, 10:48 AM   #20
Pokerob
hug life
 
Pokerob's Avatar
 
Join Date: 10-25-06
Location: G-Rap, MI
Posts: 10,147
iTrader: (25)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ovrlnd View Post
it would coat in the pits for sure yes. make them level, no. SimpleManLance is correct. if you are going to spend the cash, I would grind the floor flat first.
i dont mind the pits im good with just sealing it

thanks.... you me
Pokerob is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Great Lakes 4x4. The largest offroad forum in the Midwest > General 4x4 Stuff > The Pub
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:10 PM.


Powered by: vBulletin, Copyright 2000 - 2012, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd. Runs best on HiVelocity Hosting.
Copyright 2005 - 2012 Cracker Enterprises - Powered by Linux
vB Ad Management by =RedTyger=
Page generated in 0.26377 seconds with 53 queries