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Old April 14th, 2009, 11:13 AM   #1
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Default 6.0 Ford Powerstroke Help

Hello,
I read this and am wondering if anyone could elaborate on the egr elimination.

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=102291

My friend has an 04 6.0 that he has torn down to replace the oil cooler that is under the intake. I advised that he remove the egr system while it is torn apart.
So, is there a kit or instuctions on doing this?

thanks
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Old April 14th, 2009, 11:16 AM   #2
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Old April 14th, 2009, 12:38 PM   #3
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Old April 14th, 2009, 12:51 PM   #4
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Thanks Bones,
I know it is lazy, but I was hoping someone could give me something where I did not have to join a new forum for. I do not own a powerstroke, nor plan on it. That sight won't give me any info. unless I sign up??
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Old April 14th, 2009, 02:50 PM   #5
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Well, I hope we made the right decision. We just ordered the block off plate because it is an 04. His egr cooler did not leak, He is changing the inner engine oil cooler and wanted to address this at the same time.

Did we do the right thing?

thanks
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Old April 15th, 2009, 12:39 AM   #6
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sorry I didnt get back to you sooner work has me in Mexico. The EGR cooler delete is not that hard to do. I can give you some sights to go to, but you really need to do some reading to let the idea sink in real well. there are a few kits you can buy to delete the EGR cooler, if you dont want to make one your self. A few tips....get a real long 3/8 inch extension to get up to the uppipe where it conects to the turbo Y pipe. If you have two sets of hands it will help. to get to where you can remove the Intake manifold and remove the EGR cooler will take about 5-8 hours total. Then depending on how well you can fabricate a delete kit will depend on the total time to do the kit. Me and a buddy can do this from start to finish in about 4 hours, and that includes removing the Uppipe and cutting the EGR port scoop from the uppipe. I dont believe the 04's had that. I would pressure test the intake manifold before you reinstall to make sure you dont have any leaks.

some reading materialEGR delete thread

more reading on EGR

reading......

good reading

4 pages of EGR delete threads.....read

This isnt a hard mod to do, but I reccomend reading a lot so you are prepared for it. This is something everyone with a 6.0L should do. Dont listen to the BS people say about the 6.0L being a bad motor. Most of those people dont understand the first thing about diesels. I have a 02 duramax right now, and have owned 2 dmax's and cant wait to sell it to jump back into another 6.0L.
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Old April 20th, 2009, 10:05 AM   #7
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barry1me,

Good info.

thank-you very much!!
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Old March 26th, 2010, 12:57 PM   #8
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Dragging up an old thread. Seems smarter than just starting a new one.
--------------------------------------------------------------------

Same friend and truck. He did an egr block of, but not in time. He has a bad head gasket now.
He is going to do it right and delete the egr etc.. now.

The new question is: He was going to get aftermarket headgaskets and head-bolts, but he just found out that ford has revised parts that are "supposed" to be good.

Should he go with the proven arp's or has anyone herd wether the new ford bolts and gaskets are good?

thanks
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Old March 26th, 2010, 01:02 PM   #9
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Go with the ARPs!


I have a buddy that works at a Ford dealer, and he doesn't recommend the "updates". He only uses ARP head studs.
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Old March 26th, 2010, 01:05 PM   #10
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Go with the ARPs!


I have a buddy that works at a Ford dealer, and he doesn't recommend the "updates". He only uses ARP head studs.
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Old March 26th, 2010, 01:49 PM   #11
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Old March 26th, 2010, 02:49 PM   #12
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He was afraid that I would be right and he should get the arp's.

He could save alot of $$ by going with the new ford bolts.

Of course the guys at the ford dealer told him the new stuff is great.
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Old March 26th, 2010, 10:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHARPMACHINE View Post
He was afraid that I would be right and he should get the arp's.

He could save alot of $$ by going with the new ford bolts.

Of course the guys at the ford dealer told him the new stuff is great.
I would compare the cost of ARPS to the ford Headbolts and see how much more it would cost him. I have had 3 ID tuned 6.0Ls with extreme race tunes, as well as the Famous Looney tune and didnt take it easy on each of those trucks. Never had one issue with puking or the factory headbolts. Most people dont realize that the majority of puking issues comes from a bad EGR cooler, or an exhausted Oil cooler. Now if I were going to be using different injectors, and really bombing it I would opt for the ARPs. By the way Im pretty sure There is a special torquing sequence with the ARPs. I believe you have to torque the ARPs like 3 seperate seperate times with heatups in between. Not 100% sure on that, but I have heard that rumor before.
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Old March 28th, 2010, 06:06 PM   #14
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I would compare the cost of ARPS to the ford Headbolts and see how much more it would cost him. I have had 3 ID tuned 6.0Ls with extreme race tunes, as well as the Famous Looney tune and didnt take it easy on each of those trucks. Never had one issue with puking or the factory headbolts. Most people dont realize that the majority of puking issues comes from a bad EGR cooler, or an exhausted Oil cooler. Now if I were going to be using different injectors, and really bombing it I would opt for the ARPs. By the way Im pretty sure There is a special torquing sequence with the ARPs. I believe you have to torque the ARPs like 3 seperate seperate times with heatups in between. Not 100% sure on that, but I have heard that rumor before.
Thanks

He thinks he can save close to $500. if he goes with ford parts.

He is not into much tuning and it is still stock. He is eliminating the egr, and has a new oil cooler. From what you are saying, he would be ok with the ford parts.
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Old March 29th, 2010, 01:00 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by SHARPMACHINE View Post
Thanks

He thinks he can save close to $500. if he goes with ford parts.

He is not into much tuning and it is still stock. He is eliminating the egr, and has a new oil cooler. From what you are saying, he would be ok with the ford parts.
stock will be fine. When he does do this it might not be a bad idea to have him check the heads flatness and have them check for cracks, just to be extra safe.
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Old March 30th, 2010, 11:17 PM   #16
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i'd sell it
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Old May 11th, 2011, 10:45 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by High Center Hancho View Post
i'd sell it
x2 hahahaha

Well, this truck still has problems. Now it hates to start. Pretty sure it is a FCIM problem. He did the solder repair found online (he is a competent solderer), that did not fix it. He has now had the fcim tested, and it is bad.

He wants to buy a new one..... Ford = ~$1000. total.

or

This one = http://www.usdieselparts.com/index.c...e-ford-60l.cfm
for ~$450.

Anyone here have any input?

thanks
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Old May 11th, 2011, 10:48 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHARPMACHINE View Post
x2 hahahaha

Well, this truck still has problems. Now it hates to start. Pretty sure it is a FCIM problem. He did the solder repair found online (he is a competent solderer), that did not fix it. He has now had the fcim tested, and it is bad.

He wants to buy a new one..... Ford = ~$1000. total.

or

This one = http://www.usdieselparts.com/index.c...e-ford-60l.cfm
for ~$450.

Anyone here have any input?
thanks
insurance fraud.
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Old May 11th, 2011, 11:15 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHARPMACHINE View Post
x2 hahahaha

Well, this truck still has problems. Now it hates to start. Pretty sure it is a FCIM problem. He did the solder repair found online (he is a competent solderer), that did not fix it. He has now had the fcim tested, and it is bad.

He wants to buy a new one..... Ford = ~$1000. total.

or

This one = http://www.usdieselparts.com/index.c...e-ford-60l.cfm
for ~$450.

Anyone here have any input?

thanks
If he is 100% sure he needs a new FICM, there are good reviews of this;
http://innovativediesel.com/i-977605...ke-diesel.html
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Old May 11th, 2011, 11:47 AM   #20
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I would def. do the ID ficm over a refurb or new. Its higher voltage is supposed to be much better for the injectors and what not. I would also reccomend looking online by other companies. Many are doing this mod now, and you can sometimes find them in the 500 range. FICM repairs are easy, and once you do this mod, you should be good for a few hundred thousand miles.
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