|November 3rd, 2009, 04:05 PM||#1|
Fucking Zen as Shit
Join Date: 11-05-05
Location: Lindenhurst, IL
WJ: Akebono Caliper Upgrade, Pics and Part Numbers
Here's My Write-up of the Teves Caliper to Akebono Caliper upgrade/ Fix.
The Early WJ's (1999-Mid 2002) came with the "teves" Style Caliper, which dues to it's designed caused uneven brakeing which lead to rotor warpage and failure.
The Akebono type replaced the Teves on the front, while the rear reatined the Teves style.
If you are unsure of which type you have there are pictures farther down which you can reference, or if you look at your front and rear calipers and they are different you already have the Akebono's in the front. If they all look the same you still have the Teves style and this will be helpful for you.
For this You will need the parts listed below and the following Tools:
Lug wrench, or 3/4" (19mm) socket and wrench to remove lug nuts
Flathead screwdriver/ Pry bar or Pliers
7mm Allen head socket (or wrench) (Original Caliper Slide Bolts)
11/16" Socket (new Caliper Slide Bolts)
9/16" Wrench (Banjo/ Brake Line Bolt)
3/4" Socket (Caliper Bracket Bolts)
10mm Socket or Open end Wrench (caliper Bleeder Screws)
Most likely also a BFH for removing the old rotors
I used Napa Parts, of which my Local Store had them all in stock.
SDC 2423160 Left Front Caliper With Bracket
SDC 2423161 Right Front Caliper With Bracket
UP 86793 (need 2) Premium Front Rotors
######## Bendix "Titanium" Brake Pads.
Here is a pic of a Teves Caliper Installed, Notice the partially open design and wire "spring"
And here is a picture of an Uninstalled Akebono Caliper in bracket.
Step 1: Remove Wheel(s) and jack up front of vehicle. once done you should see this:
Step 2: Using either a flathead srewdriver, or pair or pliers remove the metal retaining spring that pulls the caliper down to the caliper bracket.
Step 3: Reaching around to the backside of the caliper, you will need to remove (well unless someone already did so) 2 plastic caps in the rubber boots over the caliper slide bolts. Once those are removed you will need a 7mm Allen head socket to loosen and remove the 2 slide bolts. Once the bolts are out you can then pull the caliper up and off the rotor/bracket and secure it up so it doesn't pull on the brake line.
It should now look like this:
Step 4: Now you will need a 3/4" socket to remove the 2 bolts that hold the Caliper bracket onto the knuckle. These can be a bit to loosen, I've found that striking the end of the ratchet a few times with a hammer helps to break it free. Loosen and remove those 2 bolts followed by the rotor. If you are lucky the rotor will come right off, if your not as lucky you'll have to beat it into submission until it fees itself.
It should now look like this.
Now it's time to swap the Calipers. I like to loosen the bleeder valve on the new Caliper, and fill the caliper with brake fluid until it comes out the Bleeder. I've found this helps to lessen the bleeding time.
After the caliper has fluid in it you will need to simply use a 9/16" wrench and loosen the old banjo bolt on the old caliper and install it onto the new one.
Your new caliper should have come with 2 Brass banjo washers. These are important, because as you tighten the banjo bolt, these conform to the metal and for the airtight seal.
The 2 Banjo Washers:
Banjo Bolt, in Banjo Line with new washer installed:
Line on New Caliper and tightened:
Step 6: Now it's time to put it all back together. First put the New Rotor On. Then it's time to install the new caliper bracket. You will need to re-use the stock bolts, and simply line the bracket up with the holes and tighten.
Picture of new rotor and bracket:
Here you can see a comparison of the new and old brackets. There is ALOT more support on the Akebono design. Along with the rubber boots to help keep contaminants off of the Slide bolts. And since that was the downfall of the caliper, pads and rotors I was replacing (inside's were bare metal, outsides still had 1/2 pad on them) I gave it a big thumbs up.
Now it's time to put on the Pads. the new caliper system, using these metal bits to help in some fashion LOL I took a few pictures to show how the go on, as it can be confusing on first glance.
Once the metal slides are on, put some high temp lube on the mating metal surfaces of the pads and slides (the bendix pads come with a tube of it) and install the pads.
You should be looking like this:
Then you just need to line up the caliper itself, and drop it over the rotor into the bracket. Line the holes up and use an 11/16" socket to install and tighten the provided bolts.
Step 9: At this point all you need to do is bleed the brakes. I prefer gravity bleeding. I bravity bled just the fronts for 2 hours, and then did all 4 wheels for another 3 (been awhile since they'd been opened, so good of time as any time flush some new fluid through the system.
Once they are bled, reinstall the wheels and go for a test drive.
Last edited by Sandals; November 3rd, 2009 at 05:32 PM.