|September 14th, 2009, 09:19 PM||#1|
On Board Air Build
Since the work on the 2a has slowed a bit and it's in the shop getting some drivetrain work done, I have finally got around to installing the York based On Board Air system into my YJ. it's currently about 90% done while I wait for my tank, pressure switch and pipe to inverted flare fittings.
A big part of this was my budget. I didn't have oodles of cash to spend on this and it had to be in the range of $200. I have listed the items I used (part #'s where applicable) so if someone else was looking to do this inexpensively they could. my mounting is on a 350 sbc with a V-belt setup. Your drive may be different but the rest can still be applied.
all of the brackets were fabricated from leftover bits in the scrap bin.
- York 210 compressor from the bone yard removed from an amc $20
- 2 4-port manifolds from HF $10.00
- 3' section of 3/8" hose $4.00
- 1/4"NPT fittings $12.00
- 2 1/4-20 x 1.75" socket cap screws $.66
- oil/water separator $5.00
- Intake filter with replaceable element (Grainger pt#4FY30) $9.69
- 2 125psi Safety Valves (Grainger pt#5A708) $13.92
- 1 check valve (Grainger pt#6D917) $9.32
- Misc Brass fittings $15.00
- Small Pressure Guages $16.00
- 1.5 gallon 6 port tank (Safe Vehicle Products) $32.00
- 120psi pressure swich (Safe Vehicle Products) $18.00
- Safety Toggle switch (20amp) and indicator light $13.00
- 2 1/4npt to 1/8npt brass bushings $4
- 2 1/4npt to 3/8 inverted flare fittings $5.00
- 1/4npt drain fitting $2.00
- 25' 3/8 steel tubing with fittings $47.00
Total so far $236.59
My York came with 45 degree flare fittings on top like you would find in any common hardware plumbing section. A trip to my buddies shop netted me a flare to 3/8" hose barb for free. for the intake we measured the inner diameter of the fitting and found it was the perfect size to simply run a 1/4NPT tap down it.
to get the compressor mounted, I chose to mount it next to the alternator since my lower spacer had a flat extension and fold down tab with a hole already on it making it a no brainer.
I had a bunch of over cut 1/2" angle pieces left over from the front bumper build. I put it on the spacer and marked the hole on the fold tab, then drilled and tapped the angle to 5/16-18 for a socket cap.
Then I removed the compressor, measured the center to center of the bottom mounting holes and made a cardboard template to mark the angle mount. I put the compressor in to align the belts ( I used the front empty groove on my water pump pulley and the front pulley of the York, which is great because it now uses the same short belt as my power steering and I had a bunch of those belts lying around) then I drilled 2 3/8" holes into the angle bracket.
then I mounted the bracket and marked the spacer where it needed to be drilled.
I removed the bracket and the spacer and bolted it all together on the bench and installed it.
I needed to make an upper bracket to stabilize it so I made a bracket that attached to one of the compressor side holes and attached to the upper alternator bracket. I used a small piece of 1/8" x 3/4" bar I had, rounded one end and polished it up.
I used the two 4 port manifolds and connected them to make 1 6 port manifold, added the elbows i needed and a gauge at the manifold.
Next I made a block to hold the manifold so out of some more bits of 1/2" scrap I made a base and a clamp to fit between the two manifold sections. I drilled 1/4" holes through the clap portion and tapped the base for 1/4-20 threads. I assembled it with the 2 1/4-20x2" bolts. I also made a 1/4" hole in the base to mount to an existing 1/4-20 threaded hole from the oem jack.
I used the 1/4NPT fittings to make the intake of the oil/water separator to the top. with a quick connect for the compressor input.
then out of some scrap angle and flat stock I made a fender mount bracket to hold the separator with a stainless hose clamp.
I installed the output hose onto the barb and installed the separator.
then I installed the check valve into the manifold with hose barb and put the manifold safety relief (125psi) in the manifold as well. (I am running 2 safety valves, one at the manifold and one at the tank). Installed the manifold block and the hose from the separator.
Then installed the intake filter/silencer on the intake
my tank and pressure switch should be here wednesday.
I plan to plumb from the manifold to the tank with 3/8" brake line with the tank mounting behind the rear seat on the passenger wheel well so I will update when I get more done.
Last edited by ovrlnd; October 3rd, 2009 at 10:09 PM.
|September 15th, 2009, 07:47 PM||#2|
I do vinyl stickers
Join Date: 02-01-09
Location: south haven michigan
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i have a york with a 5 gallon tank on my jeep,it works awesome, i can run an impact with mine (short bursts)and air up tires (44 in super swampers ) in no time flat. you will love once its finished
|September 15th, 2009, 08:50 PM||#3|
where did you mount your 5 gal tank? I wanted to go a little bigger but room seemed to be an issue for me.
|September 20th, 2009, 10:03 PM||#4|
Updated expenses in first post.
got a bunch of work done on this today. My tank and pressure switch came last week so I got the tank prepped with fittings, safety valve, plugs and a drain.
then installed the inverted flare fitting to the manifold output.
Installed the pressure switch (90 on, 120 off)
I was originally going to use a toggle switch I had laying around, but to be honest it wasn't very high quality and although it was new felt like the lever would snap off. plus I wanted a light to let me know when the compressor was running and when it shut off so i got a new switch and indicator light.
then I dug through my wire box and matched the wire gauge to that of the clutch and got that attached to the pressure switch.
routed the wire to the loom and ran it into the cab
I ran the power lead to a 12v switched ignition with a 20a fuse on it.
The light is powered on the same terminal as the switch and grounded to the dash. had to drill 2 1/2" holes to mount the switch and light in the dash
Tested the function of it, compressor on, light on
Everything back together.
Next I will fab a mount for the tank and plumb the line.
|September 23rd, 2009, 11:53 PM||#5|
Tonight I got the tank mounts fabricated and mounted.
here is where I chose to mount the tank on the passenger wheel well behind the rear seat. This worked out well for me because since I no longer use the factory tailgate stop I had my choice of 3 threaded holes to use making everything pretty easy.
I needed 2 5/16-18 bolts but didn't have any but the scrap bin netted me 2 lengths of thread rod of the same dimension so I made my own with nuts and the welder.
Then for the lower mounts I cut 2 pieces of 1" flat scrap that already had 5/16 holes in them. after measuring tank placement I marked and drilled the stock to tap the holes for 5/16-18. I then cut 2 more 7/8" lengths of the thread rod and threaded each into a tapped hole in the lower mount, welded the rod to the flat and ground it down. now I had studs that would work with the brackets on the tank.
these are the lower mounts installed
for the upper tank mount I chose to use the upper tailgate hinge brace.
I cut and modified a piece of 1/8" angle I had to work with this.
|October 3rd, 2009, 10:22 PM||#12|
Well I got this all wrapped up this week. I got the 3/8" steel tubing to plumb to the tank. I ran a small bend section from the tank and then a long section from the manifold back to the small section and used a union to connect them.
1. If I did it again I would not use the steel line (or maybe a smaller diameter). that 3/8" was a freaking pain to work with and bend with my plier style tubing bender. although it fit great into the mandrel, getting a collapse free bend was damn near impossible and detracts from the looks of it.
2. my orginal manifold design idea was crap. it was small and concise, but when I got everything connected and pressurized the system (I used the garage compressor to pressurize it to help located leaks without the running vehicle ambient noise) there were too many leaks that I could not get rid of. I ditched that for a straight 7 port manifold. it is still clean, but much simpler and worked on the first pressurized test.
I am very pleased with the way this came out. it fills the 1.5 gallon tank super quick and it aired my 35 from 20psi to 35 psi in no time flat and used the impact to crack the lugnuts off. I do have a fitting to run a gauge and make the tank connect horizontal but haven't decided if I will use it yet.
also I picked this up at the scrap yard last week for free as a jumper tank if I need more capacity
new manifold setup
I ran the line under the body and up in the rear passenger wheel well and secured it with line clamps
Last edited by ovrlnd; October 3rd, 2009 at 10:27 PM.
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