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Old June 19th, 2009, 04:39 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Personally I don't like the idea of criss crossing. In a scenario like Mclovin's pic above, if one strap accidentally comes loose or breaks, the remaining 3 attachment points are still pretty much holding the vehicle in place. On the other hand, if they are criss crossed, the remaining strap will have a tendancy to pull the vehicle sideways, thus loosening up the entire system.

I do 4, just as 95geo described & as shown in Mclovin's pic.
I don't know that it would move enough to loosen things in reality. I guess it would depend on the angle of the criss cross, however, this is the first time I've ever heard of this as a reason and it's may have some plausibility. I may have to play with a board and my nylint to see how things would work out.

My concern with straps on the same corner, is the idea of the jeep walking side to side at all, again, would depend on the angle of the straps and the amount of walk would prolly be very minimal.

In all reality. If you got 4 straps on you vehicle that are hooked correctly to the axles, I think you're going to be pretty okay.
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Old June 19th, 2009, 04:53 PM   #22
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I don't know that it would move enough to loosen things in reality. I guess it would depend on the angle of the criss cross, however, this is the first time I've ever heard of this as a reason and it's may have some plausibility. I may have to play with a board and my nylint to see how things would work out.

My concern with straps on the same corner, is the idea of the jeep walking side to side at all, again, would depend on the angle of the straps and the amount of walk would prolly be very minimal.

In all reality. If you got 4 straps on you vehicle that are hooked correctly to the axles, I think you're going to be pretty okay.
i used to ALWAYS go criss cross cause its the way i always watched my dad do it.. we had to haul a rolling jeep chassis one time with 3 straps.. and we hooked it all up criss cross not knowing any better and just left one off.. by the time we got to the destination about 5 miles away going only 45 mph the front of the chassis was about to come off..
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Old June 19th, 2009, 05:45 PM   #23
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i used to ALWAYS go criss cross cause its the way i always watched my dad do it.. we had to haul a rolling jeep chassis one time with 3 straps.. and we hooked it all up criss cross not knowing any better and just left one off.. by the time we got to the destination about 5 miles away going only 45 mph the front of the chassis was about to come off..
Good real world experience! Between you and Jim, you may have converted me to same corner to same corner strapping.
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Old June 19th, 2009, 07:23 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by whiterhino View Post
Personally I don't like the idea of criss crossing. In a scenario like Mclovin's pic above, if one strap accidentally comes loose or breaks, the remaining 3 attachment points are still pretty much holding the vehicle in place. On the other hand, if they are criss crossed, the remaining strap will have a tendancy to pull the vehicle sideways, thus loosening up the entire system.

I do 4, just as 95geo described & as shown in Mclovin's pic.
agreed. i have always used 4 straps to pull straight back or foward.

i had one break one time and 2 hours later when i made a pit stop for fuel i finally noticed it. the jeep didnt move at all and i finished my trip with 3 straps.
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Old June 20th, 2009, 11:40 AM   #25
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One thing to keep in mind about crossing straps in the rear is that the angle of the strap to the direction the load travels reduces the effective rating on the strap. using the same 45 degree example, if the straps are on a 45 degree angle to the direction the vehicle will travel in a frontal impact then they have only about 70 percent of their strength. Say you have 20k pound straps that are a few years old so we'll say they are good to 18k and then you put them on a 45 degree angle and now you have a strap that is good for 12600 pounds, times two and you're around 25k pounds holding a 5k vehicle down and as soon as you add in some inertia and acceleration you dont have much room left for safety factor.

The one thing I'm afraid of while towing is getting into a frontal impact and the rig coming into/over the tow rig because the straps breaking. If you do cross just one end, cross the front so the rear straps have as much strength as possible.


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Old June 20th, 2009, 01:48 PM   #26
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you all make things too complicated. just put in gear and set the parking brake.
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Old June 20th, 2009, 01:54 PM   #27
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put in on the trailer put it in park !

if its a stick put it in gear... set the parking brake if you're really picky.. i mean come on that trucks gotta weigh about 5k lbs or more.. it aint going anywhere




















If you're dumb enough to do that ill stab you in the eye with a hot soldering iron
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Old June 20th, 2009, 02:04 PM   #28
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whats wrong with doing it that way?
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Old June 20th, 2009, 02:29 PM   #29
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No criss cross

45 degree to each corner & compress the susp. Works for my Loaders.

& all the chit I find in Barns. Never lost a load yet, Never use a strap chains & ratchet binders with compressed susp. = Best & safest...2c
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Old July 10th, 2009, 04:11 PM   #30
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I use two chains hooked to front axle, two chains on rear axle with ratchet binders. Rear chains hooked straight, rig weights 6,000 lbs plus have not had a problem towing with this in 10 years. Just my .02.
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Old August 7th, 2009, 01:34 PM   #31
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has anyone used wheel nets on the tires? I am having an issue with securing the YJ to the trailer as there seems to constantly be a brake line or something else in the way.
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Old August 7th, 2009, 06:30 PM   #32
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baskit straps have a tendacy to slip off, I have a friend that has to use them every so often when towing and he hates them.
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Old August 8th, 2009, 08:19 PM   #33
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baskit straps have a tendacy to slip off, I have a friend that has to use them every so often when towing and he hates them.
this is exactly the info I was interested in. maybe I won't get that set now. I have to figure out how to get the damn thing secured without having to relocate lines. really this is only for the rear as I don't have any issues with this in the front.
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Old August 9th, 2009, 08:21 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Broncoholic View Post
No criss cross

45 degree to each corner & compress the susp. Works for my Loaders.

& all the chit I find in Barns. Never lost a load yet, Never use a strap chains & ratchet binders with compressed susp. = Best & safest...2c

loaders dont have a suspension, just a pivot point in the center of the rear axle...trying to fully compress the suspension on anything automotive is difficult at best, if not nearly impossable...much safer to go to the axle, as everyone else in this thread has already stated....for your loaders, continue using the tie down points that are part of the frame, thats what they are for
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Old August 13th, 2009, 06:06 PM   #35
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4 Ratchet straps with hook bundles into the frame slots.

I use the suspension compression method with the Ram 1500 (did it with the Commander as well) to control suspension sway. Has worked very well.

I criss crossed once, but cut a strap on the gas tank plate. Never again.
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Old August 13th, 2009, 08:23 PM   #36
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what do you guys think about the strap rubbing the tire? If I go straight back from the rear. the only points the straps will fit will cause it to rub the rear tire. I'm not worried about the tires, just the extra stress it might cause to the strap.
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Old August 13th, 2009, 08:46 PM   #37
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How much is it rubbing the tire? If it's enough to change the angle of the strap I wouldn't do it. Under load the tire could deflect and allow slack in the strap. If it's just barely rubbing & the strap is pretty much straight, I wouldn't worry about it.
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Old August 13th, 2009, 09:01 PM   #38
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loaders dont have a suspension, just a pivot point in the center of the rear axle...trying to fully compress the suspension on anything automotive is difficult at best, if not nearly impossable...much safer to go to the axle, as everyone else in this thread has already stated....for your loaders, continue using the tie down points that are part of the frame, thats what they are for
Tires have air & they are the susp. also. Compress it so the load will not wiggle around. Crawlers have lots of travel.

Straps always work loose, Weld some d rings on your axle's That will give you a nice point to latch onto.

Use chains & binders they never come loose I do not stop for gas to check the load every 20 miles. I never check it always good. Compress opposing corners & use the same corner never cris cross
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Old August 13th, 2009, 09:05 PM   #39
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wrong. the problem with chains is they twist. when going down the road they will work them selves loose and actually loosen up. when ever i use chains when ever i get to my point at least one of 4 four chains are loose. tieing off to the frame is a bad idea. the suspension will compress but not far enough for a big jolt to knock the strap off the frame or drop a link out of the binder.

as many others have said i use 4 straps around the axles straight back to the sides
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Old August 13th, 2009, 10:23 PM   #40
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a tire doesnt travel nearly as far as a trail rigs suspension, or even a street vehicles suspension, not to mention the fact that, regardless of the air presure in the tire, it is already at its lowest point due to the weight of the machine or vehicle that its on, where as a suspension system is somewhere near the middle of its total travel..again, trying to compress the suspension is almost impossible, and if you did get it fully compressed, it would be hard on the parts to leave it that way for an extended period of time....and your statement that straps always loosen up is just plain wrong.

boggin machine, you should always make sure chains are straight before loading them, that twist puts alot of extra strain on the links and can easily cause them to break...I'd bet that is one of the biggest reasons for chain failures.
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