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Old August 12th, 2009, 06:55 PM   #1
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Default no charge from alternator

I have the wiring harness back on my truck with a new front clip.

I got the engine running the other day, but now that alternator will not charge the battery.

I am at a loss to why this is.
I made sure the singe green wire is plugged in.
I do NOT have a battery light on the dash.
All fuses are good.
There is continuity on all the wires for the alternator and there is 12v to the alternator main wire.
The fuseable links are all good.

* the P brake light is constantly lit on the dash and I do not know why. I did remove the parking brake lever assembly so the 1 wire is just hanging there, but even when I ground it out, it still stays lit. I only mention this because I have a lightning gauge cluster now instead of a regular cluster, but I also had the lightning cluster installed before I pulled the harness

I pulled the alternator and took it to autozone and they checked it, said it was fine.

I also pulled the regulator off another alternator I had laying around, and it made no diffirence.

Why isn't this thing charging anymore?


Chris
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Old August 12th, 2009, 09:49 PM   #2
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year make model?
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Old August 13th, 2009, 05:04 AM   #3
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does the battery light come on with key on/engine off?
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Old August 13th, 2009, 05:34 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camccardell View Post


I do NOT have a battery light on the dash.



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does the battery light come on with key on/engine off?
He doesn't have one...
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When cheese wiz is left in the tip of the can it because a rock hard cheese plug. So if you are too tall you should duck when you walk down the stairs. If you don't you can get a parking ticket.
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Old August 14th, 2009, 12:10 AM   #5
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I assumed he meant it wasn't coming on...since there is no info on what this vehicle is, we'll deal in generalities...


the batt. or charge light has 12v pos fed to it, and that 12 v goes through the filimant sending a pos signal to the alt which starts its charging circuit. the wire between the alt and the light is a pos signal when the charging voltage is above battery voltage, and its a ground signal when the charging voltage is below battery voltage (which is what turns the light on when there is a problem). If you removed the light, put it back, it needs to be there for the system to operate correctly. No, you cannot just run a wire without the light in place, because it needs positive at startup, sends pos back when functioning, and sends a ground back when not functioning (like engine off) so without the bulb, it would just be a short circuit.
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Old August 14th, 2009, 11:49 AM   #6
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my apologies. It is my 95 f150
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Old August 14th, 2009, 04:53 PM   #7
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http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/conten...ord_193721.pdf

if that link works, then that will show you why you need to have the charge light in the circuit...if that link does not work, then just look up the charge circuit diagram on the Michigan e Library (MeL)
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Old August 14th, 2009, 05:10 PM   #8
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I assumed he meant it wasn't coming on...since there is no info on what this vehicle is, we'll deal in generalities...


the batt. or charge light has 12v pos fed to it, and that 12 v goes through the filimant sending a pos signal to the alt which starts its charging circuit. the wire between the alt and the light is a pos signal when the charging voltage is above battery voltage, and its a ground signal when the charging voltage is below battery voltage (which is what turns the light on when there is a problem). If you removed the light, put it back, it needs to be there for the system to operate correctly. No, you cannot just run a wire without the light in place, because it needs positive at startup, sends pos back when functioning, and sends a ground back when not functioning (like engine off) so without the bulb, it would just be a short circuit.

Today I learned something new. Thanks Yota Bill
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When cheese wiz is left in the tip of the can it because a rock hard cheese plug. So if you are too tall you should duck when you walk down the stairs. If you don't you can get a parking ticket.
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Old August 15th, 2009, 01:43 PM   #9
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np
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Old August 15th, 2009, 06:49 PM   #10
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light comes on when I turn the key to the on position, but goes off after I start the truck.

The Brake light finally went out today after I bled the brake system.
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Old August 16th, 2009, 12:20 AM   #11
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what is the voltage at the battery, both with key off, and with engine running? also check this same thing at the charge terminal on the alt.
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Old August 16th, 2009, 07:18 AM   #12
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12.8v running, both on the batt and the alt. 13.1 with the engine not running. The batt has been on the charger so it full.
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Old August 16th, 2009, 09:59 AM   #13
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using the schematic on the link above, check that you have the correct signals / voltage at each wire going to the alt. You'll probably find either one of those is broken or has a bad connection. Also check the connector at the alt closely, if it looks burnt in any spot, then you will need to replace the connector, I have run into that many times
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Old August 30th, 2009, 10:22 PM   #14
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after putting the tweecer back on today and messing around with it, the alternator started charging. It worked for about 10 miniutes and went back to not charging again. No lights on the dash.

Totally stumped on this one guys.

only thing I can think of is that the pc is fried, but that dosen't feel right either.
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Old August 30th, 2009, 11:53 PM   #15
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tweecer?


the ECM does not control charging in any way, so replacing it will only make your wallet a little lighter

did you check the connector and make sure there are no signs of heat? the intermittant charge pretty much tells you its a bad connection, and that connector is a common problem
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Old August 31st, 2009, 11:55 AM   #16
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no heat at any of the connections, but I think I found something.

There is 12v on the green wire with the key off. I mean that when I tested the green wire to the positive terminal I got 12.8v which means it is grounded with the key off.
When I switch the key on, the wire is getting less than half a volt .28 or so.

So what does that mean?

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Old August 31st, 2009, 04:03 PM   #17
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accoding to the schematic listed above, the light green wire with the red stripe goes to the charge light, so that wire should show negative with the key off, and with the key on, engine off...it will show battery (or charge) voltage with the engine running if the system is working correctly...the 0.28 volts that you are reading with KOEO is just a voltage drop (which that is a high drop) What do you show at that wire when the engine is running?
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Old August 31st, 2009, 04:19 PM   #18
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shows the same

I am unplugging the alt wire to get the reading however. I unplug it at the battery tray where the 1 wire connector is
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Old August 31st, 2009, 04:49 PM   #19
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you need to test the system with everything properly connected..use jumpers if need be to make your test connections, or get whats called a "bed of nails" test clip for your multimeter...similar to an alligator clip, but it has a bunch of small needles inside that pierce the wires coating, but the holes are small enough that they self seal when you remove the clip...any of the tool trucks should have them in stock
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Old August 31st, 2009, 04:50 PM   #20
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bed of nails
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