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Old August 10th, 2009, 10:08 AM   #1
matnic
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Default Axle fluid change 101

A remedial question, I'm sure, but I have the rear axle cover off and cleaned well, gonna use gasket maker...Once cover is back on, do I need to let it dry before adding fluid? If so, for how long?
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Old August 10th, 2009, 10:25 AM   #2
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yes let it dry at least an hour. depending on what axle you have i always use a dry cover gasket. that way you don't have any rtv to worry about and if you torque it properly you won't have any leaks
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Old August 10th, 2009, 10:27 AM   #3
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I always use RTV. Apply to both sides, let sit for a little to tacky up, than slap the cover on and bolt it down. Go do something else while it dries for a bit.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 10:52 AM   #4
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I just stick em on and fill it, and never had a problem with it...but then again, I dont get paid to wait...
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Old August 10th, 2009, 02:14 PM   #5
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thanks for the advise...torque bolts to 30-35lb/ft?
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Old August 10th, 2009, 02:56 PM   #6
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Bro.. use a lubelocker gasket. I used them on the axles I had before. Just put them in place and forget 'em. Plus they are reusable.
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Old August 10th, 2009, 06:03 PM   #7
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i always hit the cover and the the housing face with a scotch brite on the air tool. then wipe the surface with rubbing alcohol to remove contaminants. I use the copper rtv and bolt it down.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 07:57 AM   #8
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I've done the scotchbrite pad, and carb cleaner, its drying now, and has been for over 24 hours, got some rtv...how long to let it skin over, and how much torque on bolts, and how long before adding fluid are the questions right now...

I think I'll be putting a thin line on the case and the cover, let it sit for 2-5 minutes, bolt them to around 35lb/ft in a star pattern, let it sit overnight, then add the fluid (not in a huge hurry, so I've got the time)...unless I get a "THATS WRONG!" within the next day or so.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 10:16 AM   #9
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I always just fill it up I never wait, and they never seem to leak
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Old August 11th, 2009, 10:49 AM   #10
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1. clean both mating surfaces (ovrland has the way)
2. put atv on all sides (both surface sides and then the gasket) and let it tack for a few mins (i like to take my finger and press lightly all along the surfaces to pull up the atv so it dries tacks faster)
3. put everything together and only tighten so the surfaces are all met as so not to squeeze the atv out.
4. let sit for 20 mins
5. go back and tighten all bolts to spec.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 11:15 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pokerob View Post
2. put atv on all sides (both surface sides and then the gasket) and let it tack for a few mins (i like to take my finger and press lightly all along the surfaces to pull up the atv so it dries tacks faster)
not using a gasket, just the rtv...thats ok, right?
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Old August 11th, 2009, 11:17 AM   #12
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Quote:
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not using a gasket, just the rtv...thats ok, right?
i have used just rtv without gasket too.

i would use the method i suggested minus the gasket part
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Old August 11th, 2009, 05:10 PM   #13
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if your using RTV, why bother with the gasket...there is absolutley no reason to use both...just pick one or the other (I prefer the RTV on diff covers, just because its one less part I have to get, I always have RTV around)

dont put it on both surfaces, that just uses too much, which makes a mess, and can squeeze some into the diff, which could get into bearings and starve them for oil...if there is excess squeezing out, then there is also excees squeezing in.
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