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Old February 28th, 2009, 09:34 PM   #1
Haggar
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Default How to build a new front axle.....

Don't know how many of the Toy folks have looked at my Jeep build, but built a new front axle for it (Using Toy axles under it, as they held up for me well)..

I have a spare housing, so if I destroy it, I'm not out much money.

So, first step is to chop up the old axle. Cut off the knuckle balls, and then cut the tubes off by the housing.



Then cut the housing more to fit the new tubes, which are 3.25 x 0.250 DOM. Plasma made this a little easier.

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Old February 28th, 2009, 09:35 PM   #2
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So, next, I worked on the balls

I've seen a few different people rig up something to hold it in the lathe, but didn't see the need. I trimmed the excess tube just past the end of the knuckle ball with a grinder. Then you can use a 3-jaw chuck to grab the inside of the knuckle shank. Then ran a bull-nose live center into the machined inner diameter of the other side, worked fine. Just had to be carefull as I turned them, as I was working very close to the chuck. Carriage stop is your friend here.






I was assured my lathe was the latest model then I bought it



While I was working with the lathe, I made 6 other pieces to align things. 2 for the knuckles, 2 for the tubes and 2 for the differential. The knuckles, once the old tube is removed, have a 70mm outer dimension, which is 2.756". So they just need a little bit removed to be a light press fit into the axle tubes. The inner dimension of the knuckles is 40mm, so the alignment pieces are made to fit in there, from some scrap 1.75 x 0.250 dom. A 1.25" alignment bar is going through everything to hold it all straight. I used some pucks of aluminum to make spacers to fit in place of the carrier bearings. The bearings are 79.95mm OD.



Spacers which fit into the 40mm bore on the knuckles. The smaller diameter fits into the 40mm bore. The next step up fits inside the seal surface. Then I left a little bit bigger after that, in case I needed something to grab onto with a gear puller, if things got too bound up.

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Old February 28th, 2009, 09:37 PM   #3
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To align everything, I got a piece of 1.25" x 60" stressproof steel, which has been ground, trued, and polished.



The third member was bolted back into the housing chuck, and the alignment bar was slid in. Then the knuckles were slid on, on their alignment tubes, and I could measure up the axle tubes.



Here's a side shot, you can see all the pieces which keep it aligned.



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Old February 28th, 2009, 09:39 PM   #4
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Weld it slowly, let it cool, weld some more. I would weld a stretch, then weld directly across from it, to hopefully let both sides kinda pull evenly to prevent warping.

I ended up making it 4" wider on the long side, 1" wider on the short side, should be a hair over 61" WMS. Diff is shifted 1.5" over to the passenger side from stock.

Welded up:



Alignment bar shot with the spacer removed, still pretty good and straight. Note, you can see that the diff is rotated upwards compared with stock. Its 7* more than stock, so I can run 2-3* more caster for streetability, and still have the pinion up 4-5* as well.



Here's the new axle next to a stock 1985 axle:



I'll eventually be doing some bracing between the tube and center section, but I want to get my track bar mount in place first. Some internal gusseting is in order as well, and knuckle gussets, but those will be after I get my link and shock mounts in place, as they will tie together.
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Old February 28th, 2009, 11:56 PM   #5
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Looks good great tech. I picked up some fj60 axles with 9.5 ring and pinion and was thinking of doing the samething with the bigger diff. Where you going to get the longer axles made? Does Bobby longe provide custom axles?
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Old March 1st, 2009, 09:42 AM   #6
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Brian Ellinger (Diamond Axle/FROR) does the custom length 30 spline inners for bobby long now)
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Old March 2nd, 2009, 12:04 AM   #7
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Looks like good work! I like how you used the jack stand box as a jack stand.
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Old March 2nd, 2009, 08:19 PM   #8
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Looks nice. So was the whole reason for this a wider axle?
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Old March 2nd, 2009, 09:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toy4x4boy View Post
Looks nice. So was the whole reason for this a wider axle?
I'm building a flatfender with toyota axles under it. The frame is scratchbuilt and a touch wider than a stock toy frame, for more room between the rails for the larger V6 I'm running.

With the narrow toy axles, you can't get the shocks outboard enough to not bang into the frame at full droop. I would have had notch the frame heavily. , which I don't want to do.

So, this gets me back to the width I wanted to run (was designed to run all my toyota driveline including the diamond front axle I had, but I sold the whole truck).
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Old March 15th, 2009, 02:11 PM   #10
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coolness

what do you have in mind for external gussets ?
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Old March 15th, 2009, 04:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDirt View Post
coolness

what do you have in mind for external gussets ?
I've got a lot of 2x3 tube left from the frame buildup. I'll probably just have a piece or two of that cut into maybe a 4-6" long triangle, to go between the pumpkin and the tube. I have a little room inside for some internal gussets as well.

The axle tubes are stronger, in terms of bending, than, say the 2.75x0.375 common on 3/4 ton dana 44s. So the tubes themselves don't need anything for a truss.

The knuckles will get a small knuckle gusset between the ball and the shock mounts.
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Old March 19th, 2009, 10:54 AM   #12
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Nice work!Way to spend a lil more time to make something right.
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