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Old February 1st, 2009, 03:34 AM   #1
Mr.Jefferson
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Default 9" disc brake parts and 44 high steer help

So I got a set of full widths from an f150 for my TJ and I got a few questions. What parts (besides caliper brackets) do I need to convert my 9" over to disc. It has no brakes of any kind on it so I figured might as well go to disc.

Also, front 44 is machined for high steer already. Where is the best place to get the arms and steering set up. Mind you Im in college so I dont have a ton to spend on this but Im looking for a good part at a decent price.
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Old February 1st, 2009, 09:57 AM   #2
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These Brackets
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/1969-1...CKET,3348.html

Napa Part #'s

1975 Chevy 1/2 ton 4wd come with pads
Calipers #142-2022 and #142-2023

Parts Plus #'s

1995 Dodge 1/2 ton 4wd......because these fit over the stock flanges of the shafts with no grinding
Rotors P76447

1975 Chevy 1/2 ton 4wd
Brake Hoses #BH36761

Little Spacers from Lowe's....cut to fit inside the rotor where the lug stud slides through to center the rotor over the studs
the spacers are "Hillman" no part number but they measure 1/2 x 5/8 x 1
found them in the little hardware isle in the chest of drawers

Last edited by CheapThrillB2; June 21st, 2012 at 04:10 PM.
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Old February 1st, 2009, 12:49 PM   #3
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stretch the front if u want high steer otherwise the koz arms arent long enough and the draglink and tie rod hit the springs on full turns.
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Old February 1st, 2009, 01:22 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by nate4d View Post
stretch the front if u want high steer otherwise the koz arms arent long enough and the draglink and tie rod hit the springs on full turns.
There is one company that makes long enough arms to clear them but don't remember who's. You will need a longer pitman arm and probably have to move the steering box.
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Old February 1st, 2009, 07:16 PM   #5
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The axles will be pushed out a bit but I really dont wanna have to move the steering box. Already counted on a new pitman arm. Thanks for the parts list guys. Looks like Im ordering a whole bunch of junk tomorrow.
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Old February 1st, 2009, 07:20 PM   #6
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If you need longer arms thats not a problem. Just let me know how much longer. I like getting feedback---this way I can address as many set ups as possible.
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Old February 1st, 2009, 07:21 PM   #7
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is the 9" running stock shafts?

With my moser shafts I had to grind down the flange a bit for them to fit inside the rotors.

I used different brackets but they were from speedway. They use 88 k10 calipers, and 78 f150 front rotors off a dana 44.



oh and for a nice trick to make sure you get the bracket on there even:

Un screw the bleeder, stick a rubber hose on it, take compressed air and shoot it into the caliper. This will move the piston outward locking the pad against the rotor. Shut the bleeder screw and the air will be trapped in there. This will ensure a nice even fit
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Old February 2nd, 2009, 08:52 AM   #8
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Thanks for the pictures guys, those help a lot. I was gonna get my arms from KOZ but my Jeep is all the way in Pinckney which is by Ann Arbor kinda and I wanna get as much stuff as close to there as possible. Im gonna go through Unlimited Off Road for most of it because those guys do great work and they have always been really easy to work with, good people over there. But I will be ordering a cage from KOZ this summer!
Anyway, back on topic. I am probably gonna over to Napa this week then and get the stuff I need for these rear brakes. Thanks for that trick too plato, good thinkin!
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Old February 2nd, 2009, 09:54 PM   #9
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Another question and an extremely important one. So I got new wheels/tires when I bought these axles and they are double beadlocks (16.5" wheel). Do you guys think these calipers will clear the inner lock ring?
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Old February 2nd, 2009, 09:57 PM   #10
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MY 15" rim has about a .250" of clearance from the caliper
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Old February 2nd, 2009, 10:05 PM   #11
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Cool, that answers my question. I think it outta clear. The stock front hp44 disc's are VERY close but they dont rub so I think I'll be alright. On a side note, anyone know where to get some extended sway bar mounts for as cheap as possible. I sold some axles and the front had the tie rod flipped to the top so I had to cut the stock sway bar mounts off. I told the guy Id get them on there but the stock ones wouldnt work so now he's not so happy. I feel obligated since I told him they would be on there and they are for his wifes Jeep. Any help would be greatly appreciated but I dont wanna spend a ton of money on something I just sold, lol.
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Old February 3rd, 2009, 07:27 AM   #12
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Great tech here! Please share pics as you do the hi-steer.
thanks
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Old February 3rd, 2009, 08:08 AM   #13
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Deff. will get some pics up. Im oredering the arms this week and might get the steering built for it too.
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Old February 3rd, 2009, 08:11 AM   #14
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And please dont tell me these are the cheapest way to fix the sway bar mounts for that guy (I dont wanna spend $30 but I guess it was my fault for telling him he'd still be able to run a sway bar):
http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchan...ry_Code=BP-B_S
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Old February 6th, 2009, 01:58 PM   #15
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Ok, back on topic. Im gonna order the hi steer arms from KOZ, how long do I need to ask him to make them for me so that I wont hit the coils when I turn to full lock?
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Old February 6th, 2009, 02:36 PM   #16
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just a tip when using the compressed air idea to hold the caliper and bracket in place for welding, because the caliper is a floating caliper, when you pressurize the piston, not only does it push the piston tight on the inside of the rotor but it will pull the outside pad tight on the outside of the rotor also. When you release the air pressure, the piston will go back in a bit but the outside will not. It's best to put a shim or something between the pad on the outside and the rotor before you pressurize it or it will make changing new pads a PITA.
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Old February 6th, 2009, 02:41 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dylan View Post
just a tip when using the compressed air idea to hold the caliper and bracket in place for welding, because the caliper is a floating caliper, when you pressurize the piston, not only does it push the piston tight on the inside of the rotor but it will pull the outside pad tight on the outside of the rotor also. When you release the air pressure, the piston will go back in a bit but the outside will not. It's best to put a shim or something between the pad on the outside and the rotor before you pressurize it or it will make changing new pads a PITA.
I didn't do a shim and the pad is no biggie to change? Maybe I got lucky?

Also I run a 15" rim and my rear calipers don't rub... VERY VERY close though.
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Old February 6th, 2009, 05:57 PM   #18
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Good call dylan. Anyone got a clue on length for the arms though? I dont wanna get these things amd have them hit on turns.
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Old February 7th, 2009, 12:16 AM   #19
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Price wise check out Harsh Terrain, and Virginia off road for good prices. VAOR does a lot of e-bay auctions. Nice catch Dylan a shim in there would be a good idea.
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Old February 7th, 2009, 03:02 PM   #20
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I dont think Im gonna det em' much cheaper then what Koz offers them for. They look good too. I just need to know how long I need to have him make them for me.
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