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Old January 20th, 2009, 08:48 AM   #61
feva4u
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I think I'll run the frame side lower link brackets where they are for now, if they hang me up alot, I'll make another set and put them flush with the bottom of the vehicle. I'll have to check my link lengths to make sure they will have enough adjustment to move them flush if need be
I have 1/4" of clearance between the inner side of the JJ and the crossmember the way they sit right now. I kept the bolt center as close to the crossmember as I could to give them a chance. I'll get some gussets on there once I cycle the suspension. Getting excited about attaching the axle to the vehicle for the first time

I'm planning on shaving the 14B but I'm not going to go the full 2" where I have to turn the ring gear, that seems excessive I had a solid axle diff cover cert that I used to get the 14b cover. It's a cast cover, I'm not sure I'll be able to use it after I shave the axle. I'm probably going to try to sell it and buy a steel one so I can modify it as necessary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDirt View Post
nice build btw youll be done and wheeling while im still measuring sh!t -
Thanks, but my work doesn't even hold a candle to the stuff your putting out! I'm hoping to have everything done and ready to go this spring. I'd better get moving. I've got at least a week of welding and finish work to do after I get everything put in place. I know my welding, nothing will fit after I get done with it

Last edited by feva4u; January 20th, 2009 at 08:51 AM.
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Old January 20th, 2009, 11:30 AM   #62
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i bet youll go a long time before its a problem - getting hung up specifically by hardware is really relative. i know what ya mean about the 1/4 gap and all, those are some big joints and they gotta move, so it is what it is.

not a big fan of the mega shave either
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Old January 23rd, 2009, 08:06 PM   #63
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Tonight got the upper and lower rear links built. Also moved one of the lower axle brackets down, always remember to add the 1 inch below center Not sure I like it. I have at least one design flaw......the upper brackets are below the axle truss, which makes it really hard to adjust the links. Not impossible, just more of a pain.



Not sure I like how the lower links lay in. I'll cycle the suspension tomorrow. I may have just built my front lowers without realizing it
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Old January 24th, 2009, 05:06 PM   #64
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Looks Good !



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Old January 24th, 2009, 09:28 PM   #65
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Got a bit done today. Started by cycling suspension. As planned, need to clear for droop on the upper truss.




Full bump for now, need to clear the gas tank bolts out of the way.



Plenty of room between uppers and lowers

Cleaned up and drilled my brackets for the front axle


Cleared my rear axle truss for droop. Wasn't a whole lot of fun but I'm happy with the way it turned out.


Cut spring perches off the frame, also removed the rear track bar mount. Then I welded all my cut marks back up, I guess I'm weird like that.

Set front axle into place to get an idea.

Noticed my motor is about 1.5" to the passenger side. I'm going to have to move the motor mounts again

Questions for people that have cut spring perches into the frame. Do I line the cut up just below the inside frame bracket?



I was a little unsure of where my lower links were at, after cycling it today, I'm going to run it and see how it feels. I can always move my crossmember and sleeve new lower links if I don't like it. Thoughts/questions/comments?
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Old January 25th, 2009, 11:51 AM   #66
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Looking good!
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Old January 25th, 2009, 11:57 AM   #67
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The motor is usually offset to give more room for the driveshaft and transfer case I would leave it.

I also weld up my cut marks





Oh and trade me front axles

Worth a shot
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Old January 25th, 2009, 12:27 PM   #68
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Quote:
Questions for people that have cut spring perches into the frame. Do I line the cut up just below the inside frame bracket?
maybe its cause im running on 3 hours of sleep this weekend but im not understanding what youre asking here . . .

nice work btw, glad you got the rear sorted out ok - hate when stuff goes that way -
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Old January 25th, 2009, 03:36 PM   #69
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When people notch the frame to intergrate the spring buckets do they cut just below this crossmember? Like where the red lines are in this pic.

Last edited by feva4u; January 26th, 2009 at 02:01 PM.
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Old January 25th, 2009, 03:43 PM   #70
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yes they doo..
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Old January 25th, 2009, 03:49 PM   #71
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Then that's where it'll be. Makes sense but I tend to ask questions prior to cutting the frame Thanks guys
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Old January 25th, 2009, 08:51 PM   #72
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http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...mate+tj+thread
I know theres some jeeps on here that done the same rear coil set up. Might be some ideas for ya in these builds.
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Old January 25th, 2009, 09:17 PM   #73
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here is another way to setup the rear springs

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Old January 26th, 2009, 04:46 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by feva4u View Post
Then that's where it'll be. Makes sense but I tend to ask questions prior to cutting the frame Thanks guys

seems like your factors are;

actual spring height including hardware compressed under load.
axle centerline at the point of intersection on the frame.
desired ride height.

that would tell you have much if any needed to be removed given where its at.
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Old January 26th, 2009, 12:11 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VonDirt View Post
seems like your factors are;

actual spring height including hardware compressed under load.
axle centerline at the point of intersection on the frame.
desired ride height.

that would tell you have much if any needed to be removed given where its at.
i agree with him
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Old January 26th, 2009, 01:58 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pwilson22000 View Post
i agree with him
4 word response, feeling talkative today are we? Remind me to measure your sitting height with 4.5" springs tomorrow night.
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Old February 1st, 2009, 09:41 PM   #77
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Not much done this weekend, got front axle set in place and old bracket welds cleaned off. Found out my 3-link calcs are junk, kept it too narrow. So I designed brackets to go under the frame instead for the lowers and I'll move the axle side lower mounts out wider. Like H a g g a r said, it takes longer to make your own brackets but it saves money.........definitely not time though.



I'll be gone next week on a cruise so it'll be a couple weeks before I can get back to work.
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Old February 16th, 2009, 04:17 PM   #78
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Had an oversight while making brackets, need to put my JJ's for the front lower links on the frame side and designed my brackets for the JJ's to be at the axle side. Width's are the same but the poly sides are 2.0" dia vs the 2.5" dia of the JJ's. Going to have to "fix" my frame side brackets to accept the JJ's instead of the poly.....

Found pic, going to need clearance in the brackets to the JJ's fit.
My plan:


Bolt hole centerline is 1.5" from the top and the mat'l is .25" so I'll just have interference with the mat'l depending on how accurately I placed the hole. With the clearance cut I don't think it'll be an issue. Just going to look a little booty with the notches but I think I'll be ok.
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Old February 17th, 2009, 02:43 AM   #79
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just move your stock spring hanger in the rear so it sits strait. if your cutting the back off and making a new frame, you can still use the stock one just weld it in good!
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Old March 1st, 2009, 09:23 AM   #80
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Got a little bit done yesterday. Finished the lower brackets off friday night.


Saturday I started tacking stuff in place, it's hard to hold everything in place by yourself. I started getting really pissed when I had the drivers side on and I tacked the passenger side axle brackets on without noticing that the axle had rotated and the pinion angle was all wrong. Took about 45 min to get the pass side in place and tack it together, then another 15 min to cut it all back off I still need to finish the upper mount and tack that in, then I'll move to the trackbar and steering.
Upper mount incomplete:




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