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Old January 2nd, 2009, 09:31 AM   #81
chadcooper55
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it is looking awesome Jesus , im jealous
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Old January 2nd, 2009, 09:38 AM   #82
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Also have had many questions about the speedometer thing....

So, The Dana 300 uses a GM style speedometer cable. The fitting on the transfer case is a 7/8" inch 18 TPI fitting. (Toyota transfer case also use this).

So, you can get a sender like what I have in the picture above. www.summitracing.com sells them, among other places.

Here's what I've got (mine was included in my big kit, but you can buy them seperately).

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

Other companies also make them, search in gauge sending units for speedometer senders.
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Old January 3rd, 2009, 05:11 PM   #83
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Didn't get to do anything yesterday, company was over. Today, I got a little done, but football is on now, so no more work today.

Basically just dragged the front axle out of the snowbank that its been buried in, and got it up to start cleaning it..

Here it is:



Ugly. Wire brush time. Then Plasma time. Then grinder time.

Better.



So, here's where its going to go under the Jeep. Its a bit of a trick of perspective. Its directly underneath the + sign on the frame there. 99" wheelbase.



Oil pan clearance won't be a problem :) That bar hanging in front of the oil pan is going to be removed. It was welded in place to make the engine mounts all one piece, so that I could slide it all along the frame while I determined the engine position. It would be in the way of the front links, so will get cut off in the next couple days.


Last edited by Haggar; January 3rd, 2009 at 05:19 PM.
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Old January 3rd, 2009, 05:27 PM   #84
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Lookin good Jason.
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Old January 3rd, 2009, 06:13 PM   #85
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Sweet
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Old January 3rd, 2009, 07:51 PM   #86
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Thanks :)

After 3+ years of a flattie in the garage, its good to actually have this thing under construction.

The wife's van has to go back into the garage tuesday, so monday will be a blitz to try to get the front links in place, and also get the trans crossmember/belly pan supports done.

Overall, having fun, and like how its turning out.
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Old January 3rd, 2009, 11:08 PM   #87
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So, looking at where the numbers are currently lining up.. This illustrates exactly why I'm building this thing.

Look at the size, compared to a basic TJ Rubicon on 33x12.5s and a 2.5" lift.




............Rubicon 33s/2.5" lift.......CJ-3b
Width...........72.5"......................75"
Length.........156".......................131"
Height..........75.5"......................75"
wheelbase.....93.4"......................99"
weight..........3800lbs..................3100lbs
hp/weight......20lbs/hp...............19.375lbs/hp
tq/weight......16.2lbs/tq.............13.2lbs/tq



So, it'll be shorter, much much lighter, better power to weight, better ground clearance, wider track, longer wheelbase. And in my example, the CJ3b is fully built, with a full cage, winch, 37s on beadlocks, etc. The Rubi in my example is bone stock, except for 33x12.5s on some 15x8 (4"bs) wheels and a 2.5" short arm lift.
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Old January 3rd, 2009, 11:22 PM   #88
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crazy i tell yah

your ground up build will be much much lighter, better power to weight, better ground clearance, wider track, longer wheelbase

than a stock vehicle

thats nutz you are god
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Old January 3rd, 2009, 11:23 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hosejockey4506 View Post
crazy i tell yah

your ground up build will be much much lighter, better power to weight, better ground clearance, wider track, longer wheelbase

than a stock vehicle

thats nutz you are god

Son of God, actually.
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Old January 14th, 2009, 02:55 PM   #90
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updates
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Old January 14th, 2009, 03:07 PM   #91
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nice im liking the toyota axles nice work
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Old January 14th, 2009, 03:41 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danimal View Post
updates
Not much, went back to work, heading off to mexico.

I'm trying to figure the front axle out, but I needed some tooling for my lathe for what I'm doing, so waiting for those parts to arrive.

Overall, getting ready to put the front axle in and the air shocks in place, but doing tons and tons of drawing, measuring,, more drawing, more measuring, etc, to make sure everything can fit.

Look for updates in maybe 2 weeks, since I'll be busy most of the upcoming weekend on house projects.
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Old February 21st, 2009, 11:59 PM   #93
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Any progress lately?
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Old February 22nd, 2009, 09:33 AM   #94
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yes and no. I've run into an issue with the axle in the pictures above being too narrow. I should be close to having the new axle ready today, I will hopefulyl put up pics tonight maybe if I have time.

Won a new piece of business at work that I've been put in charge of, so free time is drying up. But I have some time off in April and May that should get stuff done..
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Old February 22nd, 2009, 09:25 PM   #95
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OK, a bit of an update. So, got that front axle in the pics above all cleaned up, about 6 weeks ago. Then spent lots of time with the tape measure, paper models, CAD models, etc, looking at the geometry. The problem is the axle is just too narrow. With the suspension being air-shocks, I need to package them properly. But there was no way to get them to clear the tire at full stuff and clear the frame at full extension, without severely notching the frame, which I just don't like. Really wanted a wider axle, anyway. Tried to find a Dana 44 that I liked, but none were right, and honestly, they don't seem to hold up as well as built Toy fronts, in my personal experience (your experience may be different).

So, decided to try making my own axle. I have a spare housing, so if I destroy it, I'm not out much money.

So, first step is to chop up the old axle. Cut off the knuckle balls, and then cut the tubes off by the housing.



Then cut the housing more to fit the new tubes, which are 3.25 x 0.250 DOM. Plasma made this a little easier.

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Old February 22nd, 2009, 09:33 PM   #96
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So, next, I worked on the balls

I've seen a few different people rig up something to hold it in the lathe, but didn't see the need. I trimmed the excess tube just past the end of the knuckle ball with a grinder. Then you can use a 3-jaw chuck to grab the inside of the knuckle shank. Then ran a bull-nose live center into the machined inner diameter of the other side, worked fine. Just had to be carefull as I turned them, as I was working very close to the chuck. Carriage stop is your friend here.






I was assured my lathe was the latest model then I bought it



While I was working with the lathe, I made 6 other pieces to align things. 2 for the knuckles, 2 for the tubes and 2 for the differential. The knuckles, once the old tube is removed, have a 70mm outer dimension, which is 2.756". So they just need a little bit removed to be a light press fit into the axle tubes. The inner dimension of the knuckles is 40mm, so the alignment pieces are made to fit in there, from some scrap 1.75 x 0.250 dom. A 1.25" alignment bar is going through everything to hold it all straight. I used some pucks of aluminum to make spacers to fit in place of the carrier bearings. The bearings are 79.95mm OD.


Last edited by Haggar; February 22nd, 2009 at 09:45 PM.
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Old February 22nd, 2009, 09:54 PM   #97
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To align everything, I got a piece of 1.25" x 60" stressproof steel, which has been ground, trued, and polished.



The third member was bolted back into the housing chuck, and the alignment bar was slid in. Then the knuckles were slid on, on their alignment tubes, and I could measure up the axle tubes.



Here's a side shot, you can see all the pieces which keep it aligned.



And here's where I am as of now. I'm basically ready to weld, but I want to measure everything 17 more times to makes sure. I have another set of alignment pucks, which go into the other end of the tube, and slide insde the housing end, which were to hold the tube in line. But, I don't think they are really necessary, as the housing holds it pretty well centered ( I test fit them, things lined up fine with our without them. ). So, hopefully tomorrow night I can weld it. Thats about 3 weeks of progress there, but i've only had 1 or 2 hours per wekeend to work and thats it. This is 4" longer on the long side, and 2" longer on the short side. Total width will be 62" wms/wms without any spacers.

One thing I need to do before welding is figure out the angles I want. I think stock Toys only run about 1.5 degrees of caster, and I think 5 degrees would be better for DW prevention. And then I want to tip the pinion upwards about 5 degrees from stock, which is what I ran on my diamond axle.


Last edited by Haggar; February 22nd, 2009 at 09:58 PM.
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 06:47 AM   #98
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Nice work.
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 07:37 AM   #99
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looking good

what are you going with for inner shafts ?
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Old February 23rd, 2009, 09:25 AM   #100
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Quote:
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looking good

what are you going with for inner shafts ?
Right now, planning to have Brian Ellinger make a set of custom length 30 spines for me. A touch pricey but there aren't a lot of options for them.
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