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Old June 7th, 2008, 07:54 AM   #1
beejers
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Default Another 1ton YJ "56k beware"

So i started a jeep build awhile ago. Its had 3 motors, two trannys, and two sets of axles so far. Its also never been on the road or finished. time to finish the project.

spec's
Motor: 5.3L chevy
Tranny: 4L60
Adaptor: custom, drawn and cnc milled by me
T-case: flipped 300 with Stak replace-a-case and 32 spline outputs
Axle's: i bought rock jock high pinion 60 centers and some large tube. i did all the machining myself and the setting of the gears and lockers (detroit). i have 35 spline CroMo axle shafts that i splined myself.
suspension: 4-link with sway away nitrogen shocks. the lowers will end up being aluminum and the uppers will be DOM. Johnny joints will be used on the bottom.

The goal,,,,a low Jeep on 40's.

some of the eariler pictures



it made it outside, very temperary 4-link,no shocks



at this point i decided to cut the axles and change them
it was for the better, i needed the clearance.

i am going to run a PSC steering, so i cut my self a bracket.

they slide together with the slots



ride height,


this is at full compression.


front shock mounts


The trans adaptor that i made.



rear 4-link and shock mounts


ride height..



My new Stak





Shock mounts,,,,,temporary shocks (1" X 1" tube, might ride a little rough)




another ride height



Last edited by beejers; December 13th, 2008 at 08:40 PM.
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Old December 13th, 2008, 08:38 PM   #2
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got some more done.......

Made some temporary shocks, they are able to slide from full compression to full droop with no resistance.

testing clearance before the welds are finished.





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Old December 13th, 2008, 08:53 PM   #3
nick_n_ii
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Wow.. That thing has ALOT of work into the tube chassis, very sweet..
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Old December 13th, 2008, 08:57 PM   #4
muddyjeep9
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loooks awesome.

keep the pictures coming.
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Old December 13th, 2008, 09:09 PM   #5
Mclovin
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That thing is SICK !!! Awsome fab work there.. PS thats not a jeep anymore
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Old December 13th, 2008, 09:14 PM   #6
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not a whole lot of jeep, but when i get all the body panels and top on it, it should look like a jeep. it will run stock windshield frame and top. also upper doors.
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Old December 13th, 2008, 09:42 PM   #7
Fullsize4life
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Very Nice
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Old December 13th, 2008, 09:53 PM   #8
frdtrckmnrich
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This thing looks even better in person!
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Old December 13th, 2008, 10:27 PM   #9
jeeperbrian
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looks good
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Old December 14th, 2008, 09:03 AM   #10
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it is had to understand the work that is in this thing untill you get to drool on it in person! it dosent hurt having a killer fab shop at your disposal
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Old December 14th, 2008, 09:09 AM   #11
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as you can see he does some killer stuff on his plasma table

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Old December 14th, 2008, 09:11 AM   #12
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nice work, love the attention to detail -

keep'em coming
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Old December 14th, 2008, 09:11 AM   #13
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very nice man, when's your projected finish date?
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Old December 14th, 2008, 09:16 AM   #14
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April 30 ish, going to Windrock
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Old December 14th, 2008, 08:36 PM   #15
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awesome man, keep up the good work!!!!
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Old December 14th, 2008, 09:38 PM   #16
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Interesting,

Why would you run aluminum for lowers and DOM for the uppers? The lowers are going to take the impact from terrain, and if the terrain is rocks, aluminum is very "sticky" and has a much lower yield strength compared to the DOM. Run the aluminum on the uppers and the DOM on the lowers. Just my 0.02 cents
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Old December 14th, 2008, 09:55 PM   #17
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aluminum has memory ( this is not normal aluminum,aircraft quality), when i come down real hard on it , it will return to straight. DOM will just bend, and stay bent.
I would run it on the top also but it cost $20 per foot.
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Old December 14th, 2008, 10:39 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IHCJ9 View Post
Interesting,

Why would you run aluminum for lowers and DOM for the uppers? The lowers are going to take the impact from terrain, and if the terrain is rocks, aluminum is very "sticky" and has a much lower yield strength compared to the DOM. Run the aluminum on the uppers and the DOM on the lowers. Just my 0.02 cents
also it will be drilled and tapped, much better/stronger than an insert... a lot of comp rigs run aluminum over dom, wish I had that kind of money!!!
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Old December 15th, 2008, 10:32 AM   #19
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Quote:
aluminum has memory ( this is not normal aluminum,aircraft quality), when i come down real hard on it , it will return to straight. DOM will just bend, and stay bent.
I would run it on the top also but it cost $20 per foot.
Aluminum does not have "memory". What you may be referring to is the amount of deformation a material can sustain before it yields plastically and permanently. If loading produces stresses past the yield strength of the material, it will yield, permanently. No returning to straight.

Do you know what type of aluminum it is? This will dictate its material properties. Depending on the grade of aluminum, it may be able to elastically deflect more than the DOM but will not be able to handle higher loading. And the type of aluminum depicts whether it is possible to machine it or not, depending on how it has been treated.

However, if you have 2024-T3, T4, or T6 then you are in good shape, as these are fairly comparable to alloyed steel (4130, 4140). Just expensive. But I would stay away from 6061 if possible for links.

Quote:
also it will be drilled and tapped, much better/stronger than an insert... a lot of comp rigs run aluminum over dom, wish I had that kind of money!!!
I realize that a lot of comp rigs run aluminum. However, if they bend the aluminum, they can replace it at their trailer before competing again, and they have the money to do so. On the trail, if you bend a link, you have to drive out on it.

Just saying that it may turn into an expensive venture if you have to replace links every time you land on one.
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Old December 15th, 2008, 10:57 AM   #20
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Good info, i will check into exatly what it is. I have acess to all types of soilid carbide so even if its at a hardness of Rc 60 i will be able to mahine it. We have run this stuff for tie rods and 4-link material and have had great results, both in compitition and trail use.

I never thought of how "sticky" the aluminum is, i may have to take a closer look at this problem. Thanks for the heads up.
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