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Old October 11th, 2008, 02:46 PM   #1
Jeep8499
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Default Welding to cast iron?? Need suggestions.

To make a long story short, I need to weld a spring perch onto my front axle. However, the spring perch needs to be welded beside the differential on the housing. What's the best way to weld steel to cast? I'm half tempted just to MIG weld it on. Anyone do this before?

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Nate
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Old October 11th, 2008, 02:55 PM   #2
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You sure it is cast iron? Most axle housings are cast steel.

Cast iron you will have to preheat it 500-1200 degrees F. Nickel rod with low current, peen the weld to prevent build up of residual stresses, allow it to cool by itself.

Last edited by Rocky; October 11th, 2008 at 03:00 PM.
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Old October 11th, 2008, 02:58 PM   #3
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I agree
Specification
AWS A5.15-90
SMAW (stick)

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Old October 11th, 2008, 02:59 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by Jeep8499 View Post
To make a long story short, I need to weld a spring perch onto my front axle. However, the spring perch needs to be welded beside the differential on the housing. What's the best way to weld steel to cast? I'm half tempted just to MIG weld it on. Anyone do this before?

Thanks,
Nate

IMO,if you mig it on, it will problably come off.

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthr...ding+cast+iron
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Old October 11th, 2008, 03:24 PM   #5
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You sure it is cast iron? Most axle housings are cast steel.

Cast iron you will have to preheat it 500-1200 degrees F. Nickel rod with low current, peen the weld to prevent build up of residual stresses, allow it to cool by itself.
Really? Nope I'm not sure it's cast iron. Just what I was told. Is there any easy way to tell?
FWIW, it's a Dana 44 front axle out of a 3/4 ton Chevy.

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Old October 11th, 2008, 03:59 PM   #6
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You sure it is cast iron? Most axle housings are cast steel.

Cast iron you will have to preheat it 500-1200 degrees F. Nickel rod with low current, peen the weld to prevent build up of residual stresses, allow it to cool by itself.
if you heat it to 1200 degree's the metal becomes plastic, with may lead to deformations in the machined surfaces. The instructors here at hobart told us 300-700 degree's of preheat. you can weld it without heat, just weld about 1" at a time, allow it to cool between passes and peen the shit out of it
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Old October 11th, 2008, 04:00 PM   #7
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If you do stick weld it use nomacast55 its only 55% nickle. Its made for this exact app. per Lincolns website. Nickle rod and regular nomacast are 99% nickle which is apparently too much. Then just preheat and cool slowly like said above.
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Old October 12th, 2008, 06:12 PM   #8
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if you heat it to 1200 degree's the metal becomes plastic, with may lead to deformations in the machined surfaces. The instructors here at hobart told us 300-700 degree's of preheat. you can weld it without heat, just weld about 1" at a time, allow it to cool between passes and peen the shit out of it
IRRC 1400 degree is when it turns to plastic. I could be wrong since it's been a few years since a did my testing.
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Old October 12th, 2008, 06:14 PM   #9
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IRRC 1400 degree is when it turns to plastic. I could be wrong since it's been a few years since a did my testing.
you could be right. whiterhino hollered at me once for posting the same thing you did. with any luck we could both be right and he could be wrong, then we could rub it in his face.
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Old October 12th, 2008, 07:59 PM   #10
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FWIW, I weld all my center sections to my axle tubes with mig and have never had one crack. If you want to use mig just do it a small amount at a time and peen it. Use a large chipping hammer with a blunt point to prevent stress risers and dimples. It will be fine as long as you dont just pour the heat to it
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Old October 12th, 2008, 08:01 PM   #11
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FWIW, I weld all my center sections to my axle tubes with mig and have never had one crack. If you want to use mig just do it a small amount at a time and peen it. Use a large chipping hammer with a blunt point to prevent stress risers and dimples. It will be fine as long as you dont just pour the heat to it
remember when nicks broke? i do. the mount tore right off of the center section.
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Old October 12th, 2008, 08:07 PM   #12
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Nicks was not welded to the center section. So know before you speak. It was welded on the tubes and was only .095 wall hrew. So remember that. HIs front broke the tabs not the welds on the center section. In fact he ran those for a year until he switched to the other side with his 3rd arm mount.
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Old October 12th, 2008, 08:10 PM   #13
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Nicks was not welded to the center section. So know before you speak. It was welded on the tubes and was only .095 wall hrew. So remember that. HIs front broke the tabs not the welds on the center section. In fact he ran those for a year until he switched to the other side with his 3rd arm mount.
I could have swore the tab ripped off the center section. oh well.
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Old October 12th, 2008, 08:12 PM   #14
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Yes, the tabs that were on there broke. not the welds. In fact when i reweled it at the park I had to weld the tabs next to the broken off parts still attached to the center section. like i said know before you speak
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Old October 12th, 2008, 08:13 PM   #15
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Yes, the tabs that were on there broke. not the welds. In fact when i reweled it at the park I had to weld the tabs next to the broken off parts still attached to the center section. like i said know before you speak
i was there when they broke and when you re welded them, i thought it was the tab that ripped off. dont get your panties all knotted up now.
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Old October 12th, 2008, 08:18 PM   #16
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No bunching here. Just making sure you got it right. welds dont normaly fail if done correctly, most of the time it is the HAZ that fails.
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