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Old September 18th, 2008, 03:44 PM   #1
Plato2k5
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Default need new rear driveshaft...ujoint size question...

So since I have to purchase a new yoke on my 9" and replace the spline shaft and collar on the rear driveshaft, would it be worth upgrading from the 1310 to a 1350 on the 9" flange?

Than just use a 1310 x 1350 Conversion Spicer joint?? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana-...mZ130101892191

just keep the double cardon at 1310? or would this just break the u-joints further up near the transfercase?
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Old September 28th, 2008, 10:43 PM   #2
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So what did you do? I'm wondering the same thing when I make the swap to the Dana 60's. Should I go with a driveshaft with 1350 ujoints or not?
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Old September 28th, 2008, 11:15 PM   #3
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Well to be honest, I started attacking the rust issue.. good thing to as I yank on the driver belt and where it bolts to the floor... it rips rite off !

So the driveshaft is on hold... However I think i'll stay with the 1130 since the yoke on the t-case and cv are 1310 or 1330... not exactly sure. So if i went to a bigger one, it would just fail further up.
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Old September 29th, 2008, 08:35 AM   #4
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Good Idea as seatbelts are important. Ok so lets open this back up to everyone to see what they are running.

Anyone running Dana 60's and 14 bolts what u joint size are you using in your drive line?
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Old September 29th, 2008, 09:13 AM   #5
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I don't think I would assume that running a 1310/1350 conversion joint is going to push the failure anywhere else.
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Old September 29th, 2008, 11:50 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NitzPixs View Post

Anyone running Dana 60's and 14 bolts what u joint size are you using in your drive line?
1410 yokes FTW
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Old September 29th, 2008, 12:10 PM   #7
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1350's here. I wouldn't waste time on a 1330. Either stick with the 1310 or jump to at least a 1350. 1330's have the same size caps as the 1310 only on side is wider than the other, not stronger.
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Old September 29th, 2008, 12:17 PM   #8
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Toyota joints :D

They are somewhere around a 1350 in strength. Converting my Dana 300 to accept flanges to take them.

Me personally, I don't like fuses in the system, I prefer to have strong parts and drive within the limits of my parts.
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Old September 29th, 2008, 07:35 PM   #9
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joint clutch and gear.
30200 Cypress Rd
Romulus, MI 48174
(734) 641-7575

Calll them and ask what they would do and they should have the parts too. The best part not far from you.
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Old September 30th, 2008, 06:31 AM   #10
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Quote:
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Me personally, I don't like fuses in the system, I prefer to have strong parts and drive within the limits of my parts.
Bingo.
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Old October 1st, 2008, 03:16 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PavementPounder View Post
I don't think I would assume that running a 1310/1350 conversion joint is going to push the failure anywhere else.
I'm just saying instead of breaking at the axle end, it will at the transfer case end. So why waste money to upgrade the flang at the axle if it will still break?

I also like to have a fuse in the system so I don't break more expensive parts.
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Old October 1st, 2008, 03:47 PM   #12
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I have a 60 in my yj with a 1310 joint it hasn't broke yet but I only been in the sand & mud. I also run a ladder bar set up on it.
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Old October 1st, 2008, 08:04 PM   #13
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yeaaah i'm sure part of my problem is not having a ladder bar. Guess I should add that to the list of things to do this winter.
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