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Old August 28th, 2008, 08:37 PM   #1
Marine_mike
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Default Questions on installing a 5 point harness

Well I finally convinced the wife that I needed a 5 point after showing her that the stock seatbelt had torn 1/2 way through. I managed to pick one up (a Simpson ) for $40. Here's my question; I have a 6 point cage, which would be a better install, drilling and tapping the cage and using grade 8 bolts or welding tabs and bolting to them?
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Old August 28th, 2008, 08:43 PM   #2
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do not drill and tap into the cage

buy some mounting tabs and weld those to the cage then bolt it to those. its alot better to sandwich the harness mount in the middle of two tabs for strenght too.
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Old August 28th, 2008, 09:35 PM   #3
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So two tabs for each point, bolt them together then weld'em?
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Old August 28th, 2008, 09:37 PM   #4
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Don't bother with the anti submarine belt.

It is a PITA
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Old August 28th, 2008, 09:45 PM   #5
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wasn't gonna. The only issue I will have is tryin to get a cross bar welded behind the front seats to mount the shoulder straps i time for the mounds on Monday.
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Old August 29th, 2008, 12:28 AM   #6
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So two tabs for each point, bolt them together then weld'em?
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wasn't gonna. The only issue I will have is tryin to get a cross bar welded behind the front seats to mount the shoulder straps i time for the mounds on Monday.

AA Manufacturing has some sweet harness tabs already bent in a U to the perfect width if you have time to wait for them to ship. Their site's being gay right now or I'd link right to them. However the below pic shows the right way to mount the harness tab in double shear.








As for the cross bar for the shoulder harnesses, if you don't have time, I wouldn't wory too much about it. The lab belts do the majority of holding you in your seat during a roll. The shoulder belts (besides allowing you to flop less) really are more important during a higher speed roll. Just don't do anything overly stupid and you should be fine wheelin with just the laps for a bit. My $.02
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Old August 29th, 2008, 02:30 AM   #7
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I appreciate the info. I got a bud cutting the tabs tonight at his work. I prob won't be able to do the crossbar before monday for the mounds. But I'm sure I'll get the tabs done. The harness will most definatlely be for wheeling only, so I'll keep the stock for driving.
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Old August 29th, 2008, 03:45 AM   #8
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do you tighten it all so the the tabs squeeze together or keep it loose so it can move around more? or does it not matter?
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Old August 29th, 2008, 09:33 AM   #9
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do you tighten it all so the the tabs squeeze together or keep it loose so it can move around more? or does it not matter?

Personally I keep them loose, as in I don't torque the tabs together. The U shaped pieces I got from AA Manufacturing which are designed solely for this purpose have about a 3/16s gap or so for the tab to float a bit in. Also, you can order matching quick release pins from their site if you wanted quick disconnects to easily change/take out the harnesses w/o tools. Since those pins have NO ability to tighten, that was good enough to set my mind at ease about it.
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Old August 29th, 2008, 09:38 AM   #10
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No need for the double shear on the tabs though. A single welded tab will be more than sufficient. You aren't going to shear a grade 8 3/8" bolt (assuming it is bolted tight) with your body weight.
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Old August 29th, 2008, 09:47 AM   #11
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Personally I keep them loose, as in I don't torque the tabs together. The U shaped pieces I got from AA Manufacturing which are designed solely for this purpose have about a 3/16s gap or so for the tab to float a bit in. Also, you can order matching quick release pins from their site if you wanted quick disconnects to easily change/take out the harnesses w/o tools. Since those pins have NO ability to tighten, that was good enough to set my mind at ease about it.
Then the bolt is a sheer pin instead of using it's mechanical advantage as a clamping device, I would run them tight.

That said most stock belts don't clamp the shoulder bolt and put it not only under a bending load, but in sheer as well. I guess if it's good enough for them...

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No need for the double shear on the tabs though. A single welded tab will be more than sufficient. You aren't going to shear a grade 8 3/8" bolt (assuming it is bolted tight) with your body weight.
I agree, except I use 1/2 grade 8 bolts. It's not a bad idea to use two tabs though, as long as you tighten everything up IMHO.
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Old August 29th, 2008, 09:50 AM   #12
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I agree, except I use 1/2 grade 8 bolts. It's not a bad idea to use two tabs though, as long as you tighten everything up IMHO.
yeah, I couldn't remember if the eyelets were 3/8" or 1/2"
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Old August 29th, 2008, 09:16 PM   #13
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Then the bolt is a sheer pin instead of using it's mechanical advantage as a clamping device, I would run them tight.
Sure in single shear you'd need everything tight so that you weren't oblonging the holes, but that wouldn't matter in double shear.

I don't see any advantage as a clamping device... You're certainly not relying on the clamping power to hold the belt tab between the two mounting tabs in a roll.

Now maybe if you were using an eye bolt where the tightened belt was pulling in the line the threads were holding, then yes you'd be using the threads...
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Old August 29th, 2008, 10:23 PM   #14
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you guys dont just use zip ties
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Old August 29th, 2008, 11:36 PM   #15
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Well the tabs will be ready for me in the am, unfortunatly I found out that my cage (installed by PO) doesn't run in between the seats. So now I need a cross bar and additional bar between the seats. I'll just run the mounds in stock belts.
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