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Old August 25th, 2008, 06:01 PM   #1
Plato2k5
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Default trans pan gasket...

Do you apply any type of sealer on the trans pan gaskets made of cork??

I used some 3m rubber cement stuff to keep the gasket in place so I don't have to worry about it moving around when putting the bolts in.

But seems like it always leaks. I guess the pan flange could be bent a tad......
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Old August 25th, 2008, 06:06 PM   #2
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I think you answered your own question. there is no sealer that I know of that works well on trans pans. the problem is the alluminum case grows quicker then the steel pan and it makes the gasket "squirm". the addition of sealant only magnifies the effects and the gasket squirms out of its own accord. Dry is the best I can tell you. any kind of carb clean to get all the oil off and use a razor scraper to get it clean. and yes please set the clean dry pan on a flat surface and shine a light behind it till you beat all the rails flat again. remember no power tools when doing pans. use a 1/4" drive ratchet if you have to too prevent over torquing.
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Old August 25th, 2008, 06:11 PM   #3
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i was a aersol type sealant (can't recall the name but its red) or brush on hi-tack everyday at work and have no problems. But i refuse to use cork gaskets. And when the customers return later (30K) for me to service it again, i always curse myself cause the stuff is a b!tch to clean off the pan.
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Old August 25th, 2008, 06:15 PM   #4
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Just say "no" to cork.
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Old August 25th, 2008, 06:15 PM   #5
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i used a cork gasket ONCE. didn't know about 'over torquing' them
i destroyed that poor thing
it didnt bother me too much, untill i had to buy another 9 quarts of mobil1
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Old August 25th, 2008, 06:48 PM   #6
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I use a rubber gasket and the black RTV, just a little on each side. No problems!!!!!!
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Old August 25th, 2008, 06:50 PM   #7
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I can only find the cork for my trans
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Old August 25th, 2008, 10:49 PM   #8
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This might sound a little strange but it works. Take a piece of glass larger than you pan get some 1000 grit sand paper it might take 4 sheets to cover the glass do not overlap any of the sheets of sand paperfasten them down, tape is the best way. You can leave the middle without any sand paper so you can fasten that area just do not have any under the area where the pan will make contact to the paper. Now after you do all this take the pan and do some light sanding one the pan. If you have only shiney spots where the bolt go thourgh then you bolt holes are deformed causing you leaks.If you have shiney spots only in the middle of the sides the the corners are deformed. I hope that you understand how this goes shiney spots are high dull spots lower. This is for rubber gaskets, cork gaskets and paper gaskets. Good luck from here this is to find out weather or not you pan is true. I know this sounds like work but atleast you removed one area that could cause a leak.
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Old August 25th, 2008, 10:59 PM   #9
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Makes perfect sense to me. I don't have glass that big just laying around..... I'm sure I could find something that would work. Thanks for the tip!
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Old August 26th, 2008, 12:18 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plato2k5 View Post
I can only find the cork for my trans
Aren't you running a 727?
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Old August 26th, 2008, 12:57 AM   #11
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Yes I am. The guy at Murray's says they don't have rubber, only cork and its an order item.

Advance Auto only has cork as well...... where can I find a rubber one?
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Old August 26th, 2008, 06:01 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Plato2k5 View Post
Yes I am. The guy at Murray's says they don't have rubber, only cork and its an order item.

Advance Auto only has cork as well...... where can I find a rubber one?
There's about a bazillion non-cork gaskets all over Google. Read.
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Old August 26th, 2008, 08:05 AM   #13
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Cork gaskets suck. Torquing them down is key, the torque specs for the tranny pan bolts are usually pretty low. Over-torquing them just results in leaks from what I've seen/experienced.
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Old August 26th, 2008, 10:47 AM   #14
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Well PP i'm trying to get this done today. I can't wait a week for a gasket. My trans got very hot at silver lake. My gauge was pegged at 250* so who knows how hot it really got. I want to drop the pan to change the filter and fluid. I have never torqued them down correctly with a torque wrench, so i'll do that this time as well.

I'm sure I'll be doing it again in the winter as I'm looking for a new pan.
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Old August 26th, 2008, 11:18 AM   #15
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You only checked 2 stores. Read about the reuseable neoprene gasket via Google and call around about it or check the store sites like www.napaonline.com.
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Old August 26th, 2008, 12:12 PM   #16
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I like to use fiber pan gaskets, but, on the dodges i also use cork. Thats what the factory uses, and as long as you get the right cork gasket, not the cheap thin ones from fram, it will be fine. I never have a problem with them leaking, torque them to 10 foot pounds, or 120 inch pounds. Just make sure the sealing surface is flat and not bowed up by the bolt holes from over tightening. And i NEVER put any kind of sealer on the gasket. Just makes for more issues later.
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Old August 26th, 2008, 01:26 PM   #17
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Ok i just got done with it. The mating surface was nice and flat, and come to find out I DID have a rubber gasket. Last time I had a cork...so either that was a really old box, or they just switched to rubber??? I didn't tighten them down to tight and used a 1/4" ratchet.
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