|July 15th, 2008, 10:16 AM||#1|
I'm that guy.
Join Date: 05-11-08
Location: MUSKEGON, MI. 49442
weld on beadlocks??
i have an old set of 15" spoke steelies that i am thinking of putting some weld on beadlocks on just to do it, no other reason.
the work involved is not an issue. as i said i'm doing it just for the hell of it.
i would just like to know if anyone has any experience with any of them.
the ones i'v found on ebay, are they any good?
what ones are the best to get? and where do i get them.
if i'm going to do it i just want to get a set that is worth the trouble.
i'v found that some stuff you get off ebay aint worth the shipping they charge you.
also, what are the pros and cons of weld on beadlocks?
and any tips on doing this would be helpful.
|July 15th, 2008, 10:50 AM||#3|
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Dearborn Heights, MI
agreed, Tab is cheapest
and yes, I've done it before.
Special Thanks and Recommendations to;
PAC Racing Springs
Joint Clutch and Gear
Last edited by Bones; July 15th, 2008 at 10:54 AM.
|July 15th, 2008, 10:59 AM||#4|
Covered in mud...
Join Date: 11-06-05
Location: Oxford, MI
cons: heavy, compared to a nice aluminum lock.
I'd go with 18-24 bolts. No need to have 32, 36, etc... (granted mine have 34 but its too many..).
laser cut will be nicer than plasma cut. Mine are plasma cut and work just fine, though.
relocate your valve stems inside the flat section of the rim
To check for weld leaks: weld them up, cover your weld with dye/ink/permanent marker. Bolt rim onto truck to hold it in a nice upright position. Pour rubbing alcohol inside the rim so its held in by the ring you just welded on. Rotate the rim real slow. If there are cracks/pinholes, the alcohol seeps through and will start to dissolve the ink. CAn't use something liek water, it won't get into the cracks.
|July 15th, 2008, 11:09 AM||#5|
Join Date: 11-05-05
you will want to add an anti coning ring, it goes on the id of the ring and creates a lever for the bolts to clamp against so the outer ring doesnt deform and you get more clamp on the bead itself. make it out of 1/2" wide .120" flat stock and give it a 1" bead every 2" or so. weld it to the outer ring. it keeps the mud and junk out of the gap too.
make sure both pieces are 1/4" steel, 24 3/8" bolts are ideal and grind a large radius on the rubber side of the rings and a small one on the outside of the outer ring. this will help to prevent cuts around the bead as the tire folds over.
|July 15th, 2008, 11:39 AM||#6|
Are we there yet?
Join Date: 04-20-06
Location: Auburn, Mi
|July 15th, 2008, 12:34 PM||#7|
I'm not old, honest...
Join Date: 03-07-06
Location: Davisburg MI
I agree, Tab is cheap.
Actually, mine are from Tab. As for relocating the valve stem, it's a good idea. I went with the Klune-V quick air downs & I love them. I don't think the coning ring is necessary. I don't have them and although my rings cone a little, it doesn't hurt the functionality and I sometimes think it gives me a little more clearance.
|July 15th, 2008, 01:15 PM||#8|
Join Date: 05-10-08
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