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Old April 4th, 2008, 11:31 AM   #61
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So, can the egr system be eliminated without warrenty issues????

BTW Sorry about your problems. My buddy owns an 04 6.0, but I like my old rusty 12valve cummins.
If you removed the EGR system and another part failed because of it being removed then the dealership will not warranty the repair. If I buy another 6.0L once I have the HG's, oil cooler replaced first thing I would do is remove the entire EGR system. You are helping reliability for the long run this way.
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Old April 5th, 2008, 09:18 AM   #62
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Well, picked it up last night, FINALLY!!! Started much better this morning than any morning since I bought it, so that is good. It sounds like it might be low on powersteering fluid, so I will need to check that. I'm hoping this thing is right!! We'll see. I don't want to have to go back to that dealer for anything!!
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Old April 5th, 2008, 08:07 PM   #63
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Well... spoke too soon!!! Had to take it back again!!! It's leaking trans. fluid all over the bottom of the truck from the cooler back and they bent the hood strut on the driver side!!! DO NOT EVER TAKE ANYTHING TO MILNES FORD IN LAPEER!!!! This f ing ridiculous!!!
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Old April 6th, 2008, 12:10 AM   #64
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Well... spoke too soon!!! Had to take it back again!!! It's leaking trans. fluid all over the bottom of the truck from the cooler back and they bent the hood strut on the driver side!!! DO NOT EVER TAKE ANYTHING TO MILNES FORD IN LAPEER!!!! This f ing ridiculous!!!
I would take it to another dealership....not sure what you had serviced, but they shouldnt have even touched the trans!? Sure its not powersteering fluid?
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Old April 6th, 2008, 08:45 AM   #65
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It probably is powersteering fluid, but it's leaking up front by the cooler area.
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Old April 6th, 2008, 01:20 PM   #66
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It probably is powersteering fluid, but it's leaking up front by the cooler area.
when they pulled the cab they mave accidently disconnected one of the lines.
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Old April 21st, 2008, 11:58 AM   #67
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Well, here I am still f*ing with this stupid truck. They fixed the fluid leak, straightened the hood strut and I found one of the bolts in the turbo was cross threaded and only in by about 3 threads so they fixed that also. I drive it for a couple of days and then it sputters and the check engine light comes on. That was last Saturday. Monday I drive it to work and have the cruise on until I hit the brakes to stop for a traffic tight. The light turns green and I just BARELY touch the throttle to leave the light and it goes full throttle and takes off on it's own almost ass packing the car in front of me!!!! BACK TO THE DEALER AGAIN!! They have it 2 more days and can't find the problem, just tell me there is a short somewhere. I get into a whole new dimension of pissed off and go get the truck Friday and now I have no idea what I am going to do to get this thing right. Strangely enough, the check engine light went off on Saturday and it has not acted up since???!!!
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Old April 26th, 2008, 12:41 AM   #68
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sell it , and get a 95 ...7.3L..:tonka:
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Old July 9th, 2008, 11:28 PM   #69
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Here we go again!! Wife parked it last night, went out to drive it this afternoon, started right up, ran a few seconds and died. I tried it when I got home, it fires real quickly and then dies, doesn't completely start, but seems like it wants to for a second. Any ideas??
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Old July 10th, 2008, 09:57 AM   #70
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sell it , and get a 95 ...7.3L..:tonka:
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Here we go again!! Wife parked it last night, went out to drive it this afternoon, started right up, ran a few seconds and died. I tried it when I got home, it fires real quickly and then dies, doesn't completely start, but seems like it wants to for a second. Any ideas??
6.0 gotta go????????
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Old July 10th, 2008, 10:00 AM   #71
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Change your fuel filters. One under the driver door along frame and one in engine compartment. They are about $80 for the pair.
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Old July 10th, 2008, 10:27 AM   #72
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Yeah, I was wondering about the filters. I removed the one on the top of the engine and had fuel there, filter looked pretty clean.
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Old July 10th, 2008, 12:17 PM   #73
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Change your fuel filters. One under the driver door along frame and one in engine compartment. They are about $80 for the pair.
If you get the international filters they are $40
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Old July 10th, 2008, 12:17 PM   #74
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Yeah I just changed mine. The one on top looked clean but the one on bottem was way bad. I thought they were done before but No they were not. 100,000 miles and just got first change. Mine started running real bad on my way to Moab like the injectors were going again. I replaced the filters and it runs great. I would try that first. If nothing else you are probably due anyway.
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Old July 10th, 2008, 12:18 PM   #75
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Yeah, I was wondering about the filters. I removed the one on the top of the engine and had fuel there, filter looked pretty clean.
the top one will typically look better then the frame mounted filter. Make sure to drain the frame filter first.
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Old July 10th, 2008, 12:20 PM   #76
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If you get the international filters they are $40

Thats good to know. I was a little stuck because I was in Moab and the only place that had them in stock was carquest. So that is what I had to buy.
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Old July 10th, 2008, 12:23 PM   #77
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Thanks guys. I will try the filters tonight. It didn't act strange at all when it was parked though? Filters can stop it just like that?
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Old July 10th, 2008, 12:30 PM   #78
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yes I have heard of people running down the road and the truck just stop running and not start. all because of a filter.
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Old July 10th, 2008, 03:58 PM   #79
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Thanks guys. I will try the filters tonight. It didn't act strange at all when it was parked though? Filters can stop it just like that?
also if you ran your fuel low the likely hood of pulling extra sediment from the tank into the fuel filter increases as well.
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Old July 11th, 2008, 09:01 AM   #80
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Well, I changed the filters, no change at all, although they did look like they needed to be changed. The one on the engine looked pretty crusty and was cracked in one spot which kind of surprised me considering that the dealership was just in there and had everything apart.
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