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Old April 20th, 2008, 09:52 PM   #1
OldManGrand
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Default ignition help!!!

i know this is more of a truck forum, but im having a huge problem with my 68 galaxie fstbk with a 390, i cant seem to figure out why it wont start unless i jump the solonoid with a couple screwdrivers. i have replaced the starter, solonoid, and iginition switch. also checked the wires leading to the ignition switch and everything is fine. any ideas? anyway to bypass all this just for now, or a non rigged way to fix it?
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Old April 21st, 2008, 09:11 AM   #2
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do you have power from the ignition switch to the solenoid when you turn the key to start?

does the solenoid have 2 posts, maybe the small wire is on the wrong post.
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Old April 21st, 2008, 09:53 AM   #3
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yeah there is power, the switch works, and i treid to switch the small wires on the top 2 posts and nothing...you turn the key to on and everything works, then you crank it and the alt light turns off and the hot light, lights up
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Old April 21st, 2008, 11:33 PM   #4
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Neutral safety switch?
It would be a half moon shaped thing on the side of the transmission, where the linkage connects.(assuming it is a c-6 trans). The wiring to it could have been disconnected or mouse chewed.
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Old April 22nd, 2008, 06:19 AM   #5
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Neutral safety switch?
It would be a half moon shaped thing on the side of the transmission, where the linkage connects.(assuming it is a c-6 trans). The wiring to it could have been disconnected or mouse chewed.
i thought about that, i got lucky its a c4, so they are at the bottom of the steering colum. you must know your fords the problem is just incase that was the problem i tried to use a momentary switch right off the solonoid, ans still nothing. wouldnt this have bypassed the switch?
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Old April 22nd, 2008, 10:53 PM   #6
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I wouldn't consider a '68 galaxie with a 390 and a c4 lucky. The starter relay (solenoid) should have two small posts. One post labeled with a "I" puts 12 volts to the coil while you are cranking. The other labeled "S" is to turn on the relay. If you have full battery power on the battery side of the relay and a good connection to the starter on the other side, all you have to do is put 12 volts + to the "s" terminal and it should engage the starter. If it doesn't, the relay is bad.
On the old style relays, if one of the main posts got turned a little the relay was junk. You also need to make sure the relay has a good ground.

Last edited by DeRanged mudder; April 22nd, 2008 at 11:10 PM.
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Old April 23rd, 2008, 12:03 AM   #7
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is a 390 with a c4 a bad combo? i'm going to get a new solonoid again when the nuetral safty switch comes in and go over everything again. if that doesnt work i guess ill have to start rewiring
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Old April 23rd, 2008, 04:59 AM   #8
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not that you should have over looked anything, but did the points close up? the pionts on the old cars have a habit of wearing down the lift block that opens and closes them. its VERY likely the pionts are worn to the point they don't work. secondly if the capacitor is old it could be fried. without that you have no spark. point gap on those is around .017 so check that first before buying a bunch of stuff you don't need.
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Old April 23rd, 2008, 05:01 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldManGrand View Post
is a 390 with a c4 a bad combo? i'm going to get a new solonoid again when the nuetral safty switch comes in and go over everything again. if that doesnt work i guess ill have to start rewiring
by the way a C4 only uses up around 22- 26 hp to turn. the c6 uses 40 + hp. plus you can buy so much more for C4's these days
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Old April 23rd, 2008, 06:42 PM   #10
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the car does start and run, but just wont start without jumping the solonoid with a screwdriver. i'm waiting for the new nuetral safty switch to get here and ill exchange the solonoid for a new one and try it all over again...
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Old April 23rd, 2008, 07:33 PM   #11
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does your car have two solinoids? some have doubles one on the fender and a second on the starter. if so you could be just getting a signal from one to the other. secondly if you have the old key in dash lock, try pushing in on it while you try and start it. I have had them go bad and they loose contact inside.
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Old April 23rd, 2008, 07:41 PM   #12
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Like deranged said you need to check the ground. Just run a jumper wire from battery negative to one of the screws holding the solenoid to the fender. The case of the solenoid needs to be grounded.
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Old April 23rd, 2008, 10:46 PM   #13
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Before you buy the parts store out of parts that you don't need, do a little simple testing.
Connect a test light to ground and test the start wire at the relay while someone turns the key to start. If the light lights up, your problem is in the relay. If it doesn't light, you need to move to the nuetral safety switch. Test the wires going in and out of the switch. If you have power going in but, not out then you know it is the switch. If you have no power going in, move to the key switch.

There are far more part available for the c6, they are just now starting to come out with better parts for the c-4. The c6 is far stronger and is cheap to upgrade. By using parts from a junk E4OD you can rollerize the c6 and get a lower first and second gear. Anyone that can rebuild a trans can do this. That is all that needs to be done to make a c6 out perform a c4 in every way. the c6 is also far more tunable.
I wouldn't put a c6 in a Pinto, That would be overkill. At the same time I wouldn't put a c4 in a Galaxie.

Last edited by DeRanged mudder; April 23rd, 2008 at 10:58 PM.
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