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rig haulin question

5K views 42 replies 25 participants last post by  sodapop 
#1 ·
whats the best way and safest to fasten a rig to a trailer? let me know ur set ups thanks
 
#5 ·
It all depends on the rig, the trailer, and what you are using. A stock rig I would just tie down the axles. On my trailer, it is designed to use tire straps. They have 3 hooks and the strap goes up and over the tire to hold the vehicle in place. One on each tire and forget about it. On a lifted rig with a soft suspension, I would still strap to the axles (tires in my case), then add additional straps to the frame to limit suspension bounce/roll. My old ZJ with no trackbars and 8" of lift got a little goofy on the trailer and really bounced and rolled to the point that I could feel it back there. I just cinched the frame down a little to limit that movement. It probably makes no difference in terms of safety, but it improved my ride towing it. I would not recommend only tying to the frame. You will never be able to tighten the straps enough to prevent the rig from bouncing and eventually loosening the straps. I don't like cranking down my suspension that tightly. It can't be good on springs to compress that that hard for extended lengths of time. Just make sure your tie down points are strong and that your straps are in good condition. Frayed straps fail quickly.
 
#6 ·
I use ratchet straps to the axles always. Two in the front that run straight out, and two in the back that cross over. Never had a problem with it coming loose, although I do check it at every stop.
 
#8 ·
I run one strap in each corner hooking to the axles. they end up being on a slight outward angle so they help control side to side movement of the vehcile too. I have strapped it down to a deck full of ice and never had it move. I like to let the suspension do it's thing because it's a little easier on the trailer. If you have overly floppy suspension then tying the sprung mass down is a good idea. Usually when you pull on the axles it will help settle the vehicle down. think about when a (typical offroad style) suspension compresses the wheel base gets longer and when it lifts it gets shorter. By pulling on them it helps hold the vehicle down. A shackle reversal in the front will not have the same effect but for most others it should be the same.
 
#9 ·
I use 4 ratchet straps and 4 axle straps with fray guards. Axle straps are from TSC as are 2 ratchet straps. The other 2 ratchets straps are from Lowe's and I like them alot better and they were slightly cheaper. They have a nice rubber coating over the handle which is nicer for strapping.

I run straps to the axles and criss-cross front and back to opposite corners.

I'd be curious to know why those that criss-cross one end but not both only do one?
 
#18 ·
New?
I thought it was always like that? 1 tie down for each corner all pulling in opposing directions..
personally I would use chains and binders to the frame, and be cautious of hook points made for lateral pull rather than vertical... Ive broken those before.
 
#12 · (Edited)
well look at all the load masters on here. 4 rachet straps for a 3 ton rig... 2 rachet straps or a couple of chains and binders should hold it down fine. just be careful of brake lines when using chains.
 
#15 · (Edited)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=535771&highlight=

That guy knows his shit when it comes to towing !

I used to go to the frame and sinch em down as hard as i could.. i now know better and wrap around the axles.. like this..




and when your tie downs start getting really ratty, REPLACE THEM ! it's cheap insurance
 
#17 ·
Personally I don't like the idea of criss crossing. In a scenario like Mclovin's pic above, if one strap accidentally comes loose or breaks, the remaining 3 attachment points are still pretty much holding the vehicle in place. On the other hand, if they are criss crossed, the remaining strap will have a tendancy to pull the vehicle sideways, thus loosening up the entire system.

I do 4, just as 95geo described & as shown in Mclovin's pic.
 
#21 ·
I don't know that it would move enough to loosen things in reality. I guess it would depend on the angle of the criss cross, however, this is the first time I've ever heard of this as a reason and it's may have some plausibility. I may have to play with a board and my nylint to see how things would work out.

My concern with straps on the same corner, is the idea of the jeep walking side to side at all, again, would depend on the angle of the straps and the amount of walk would prolly be very minimal.

In all reality. If you got 4 straps on you vehicle that are hooked correctly to the axles, I think you're going to be pretty okay.
 
#25 ·
One thing to keep in mind about crossing straps in the rear is that the angle of the strap to the direction the load travels reduces the effective rating on the strap. using the same 45 degree example, if the straps are on a 45 degree angle to the direction the vehicle will travel in a frontal impact then they have only about 70 percent of their strength. Say you have 20k pound straps that are a few years old so we'll say they are good to 18k and then you put them on a 45 degree angle and now you have a strap that is good for 12600 pounds, times two and you're around 25k pounds holding a 5k vehicle down and as soon as you add in some inertia and acceleration you dont have much room left for safety factor.

The one thing I'm afraid of while towing is getting into a frontal impact and the rig coming into/over the tow rig because the straps breaking. If you do cross just one end, cross the front so the rear straps have as much strength as possible.


$0.02
 
#27 ·
put in on the trailer put it in park !

if its a stick put it in gear... set the parking brake if you're really picky.. i mean come on that trucks gotta weigh about 5k lbs or more.. it aint going anywhere




















If you're dumb enough to do that ill stab you in the eye with a hot soldering iron :thumb:
 
G
#29 ·
No criss cross

45 degree to each corner & compress the susp. Works for my Loaders.

& all the chit I find in Barns. Never lost a load yet, Never use a strap chains & ratchet binders with compressed susp. = Best & safest...2c
 
#34 ·
No criss cross

45 degree to each corner & compress the susp. Works for my Loaders.

& all the chit I find in Barns. Never lost a load yet, Never use a strap chains & ratchet binders with compressed susp. = Best & safest...2c

loaders dont have a suspension, just a pivot point in the center of the rear axle...trying to fully compress the suspension on anything automotive is difficult at best, if not nearly impossable...much safer to go to the axle, as everyone else in this thread has already stated....for your loaders, continue using the tie down points that are part of the frame, thats what they are for
 
#31 ·
has anyone used wheel nets on the tires? I am having an issue with securing the YJ to the trailer as there seems to constantly be a brake line or something else in the way.
 
#33 ·
this is exactly the info I was interested in. maybe I won't get that set now. I have to figure out how to get the damn thing secured without having to relocate lines. really this is only for the rear as I don't have any issues with this in the front.
 
#35 ·
4 Ratchet straps with hook bundles into the frame slots.

I use the suspension compression method with the Ram 1500 (did it with the Commander as well) to control suspension sway. Has worked very well.

I criss crossed once, but cut a strap on the gas tank plate. Never again.
 
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