I will be doing a compression test as soon as I get home again.
Didn't the 4.0 have an issue with the distributor bushings wearing out and causing the shaft to move around affecting the timing? At idle there would be less force against the drive gear than there would be when you are accelerating so it may run fine at idle but get out of whack under load.
The distributor looks to be newer. But I will pull it out and check it to be sure.
wow, weird same here, except mine has the 249 tcase. Funny thing is my 96 ZJ 4.0 is running like shit too with a lack of power(I drive v8's tho), and doing the same hesitation for a few seconds when you first drive off, same as you describe. Ive done everything from a new plugs, cap, rotor, coil to a new fuel pump/regulator/filter. Also changed my O2 sensors. Still I think im missing something, maybe just 2 more cylinders.
I'm not 100% that I have the 242. It may have a 249 in it. Not sure how to tell. I was told it has the 242 but I don't know if they guy new what he was talking about or not. I know it has one or the other.
That did help. Ill be ordering a new TPS as well.
Right now the ZJ is totally stock. Tires, wheels, every thing. For now any way.
My plan at this point is this:
Replace cracked header with new one. (Not sure what to buy yet, little help here?)
Replace injectors with 703 Neon injectors. (Knew about this and was planing it already.)
Replace up stream O2 sensor. (Current one looks to be stock. Jeep has 152k on it)
Replace failing fan clutch and fan with electric fan from 99 GC, and a fan controller.
Replace drive belt.
Replace TPS.
Do a compression test.
Test fuel pressure.
Check for vacuum leaks.
Change oil and filter.
Service transmission.
Change oil in both diffs and replace leaking cover seals.
Change oil in T-case.
Replace leaking rear wheel seals and install new wheel bearings while I'm in there.
Replace leaking real main seal.
Replace leaking valve cover gasket.
Replace leaking oil pan gasket.
Replace leaking oil filter adapter seal.
Attempt to force the ECU to throw a CEL by unhooking engine temp sensor to be sure that the CEL circuit in the ECU is working. (Have been told Jeeps have a problem with this, and not throwing a CEL or code even when there is a problem.)
And I will look at relocating the AIT sensor as well. Why do people do this?
Where is it now? And will this work okay in extreme cold such as ND in January? Extreme hot such as NV desert in August? I ask because I may move at the end of the year, but I don't yet know where I will be going.
I understand that this thing is not going to do 0-60 in under 6 seconds. LOL
But stock it was rated to do 0-60 in just about 11 seconds. I would be happy with that. Right now I'm closer to 17 seconds, give or take a second.
And passing is just out of the question.
I will admit I am used to driving a much faster car then this is. But I have owned slower cars before. And its not a problem. As long as they run right.
My current DD is a highly moded WRX pushing about 460hp at the crank.
I don't expect the Jeep will ever keep up with it. LOL
But I do expect I can at least keep up with my sister driving a fully loaded Dodge Mini van pulling a trailer!
Yeah she smoked me, her and 4 kids, 2 big dogs, and bunch stuff for my brothers baby shower, PULLING A 1,400lb TRAILER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
She drives like that mini van is a sports car. I was trying to follow her and had to call her and tell her to slow down or she was going to lose me. I could not keep with her in the city, or on the high way. (She was doing like 90mph on the high way with the trailer!!!! Yeah shes nuts!
If what I have planed dos not fix my problem where should go from there?
I have herd that there is a TSB for the ECU not throwing codes. Is this true?
And is there any thing I left off my list that I should just do?
Thanks for the help guys!