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Home (Basement) Insulation Question

3K views 25 replies 15 participants last post by  xj4life 
#1 ·
Trying to finish my basement. Previous owners had already partially finished it in that they put up foam board on the block walls, then 2x4 walls, and then dry wall (they did not tape, mud, or finish the walls at all). They did not put anything in the cavity of the wall. To meet code I've gotta get a minimum of R13 so I have to add some form of insulation.

What I'm hoping to find is foam that can be sprayed into my finished walls so that I dont have to pull all the dry wall down. Any one come across a product or company that offers a product/service like this? If not I'll have a fun weekend of pulling down dry wall that was nailed in place :(
 
#2 ·
You could use fiberglass or cellulose loose fill insulation. Lowes,Home Depot, and Menards will allow you the use of the blower with purchase of any of the above products. Simply drill an approx. 2" hole with a Hole saw attahed to a drill. Set the piece aside to patch the wall.
Insert hose in wall. Try to feed it to the bottom of the cavity. Pull the hose up as the cavity fills. Make sure to keep a rag around the hole, as otherwise the dust will blow all over! After cavity is full use put plug of drywall back in wall to patch. Better yet fun a crown molding to hide the holes.
 
#15 ·
retards nailed it all up :mad:

Its a bit of a pain in the ass to fill all the holes you drilled, i agree to just take down the top piece of sheetrock and stuff it. Much faster and less effort. Also make sure all your wiring and everything is done before you start insulating. Always a good time to add some speaker wire or coax/ network cable.
and unfortunately they ran all the boards vertical :mad:

code now requires insulation for basements?

what the hell?
yup, my county requires R13 in basement walls
 
#4 ·
Its a bit of a pain in the ass to fill all the holes you drilled, i agree to just take down the top piece of sheetrock and stuff it. Much faster and less effort. Also make sure all your wiring and everything is done before you start insulating. Always a good time to add some speaker wire or coax/ network cable.
 
#7 ·
He does live in Indiana :poke:



We built our house 11 years ago and I have 2x4's screwed to the concrete wall going horizontal then I put 2" foam board in between the 2x4's then drywall glued and screwed to the 2x4's. it meets all codes here.
 
#12 ·
I can't remember the name of the company that did the spray foam in my house. They also did the injection foaming where they pop a hole in the drywall, shove a hose in there and fill it up. I started a thread on here about it. When I get on a real computer and not my phone I will get a link.
 
#20 ·
Right now the plan is to just pull all the dry wall (save what i can for interior walls). Then seal whatever open seams there are in the 1/2" foam board they put up, run my electrical and what not, then put back in R13 fiberglass batting, and finish off with moisture resistant dry wall that is screwed into place.

I was quoted $2k for spray foam if the dry wall is down, and I would assume that any other company that can spray foam in with dry wall up would be about the same cost. I estimated that I'd have $1k into new dry wall and fiberglass batting. I think $1k savings is worth my time.
 
#26 ·
yeah i've pulled two boards already and they were only nailed into place

Did you actually pull a permit for this?? If so, WHY?? If not, whos cares about the damn code?!?! Insulate as you see fit and finish it off.

What the out of control building inspecters in this state dont know wont hurt them, or cost you more headache!
But it will hurt him when he goes to sell it.
i havent pulled permits but i will be. a - i'm doing most of the work and want it done right and to code, b - i want to be able to claim it as finished sqft so i can get some value back when i go to sell the house. i have to do this regardless so i might as well get some financial benefit. i'm sure my taxes are going to go up but should also be able to get rid of PMI if my assessed value goes up.

Do you not have a plastic vapour barrier between the framing and drywall on exterior walls??? If so does the liquid nails stick to the plastic vapour barrier?? It sounds like a good way to ensure you wouldn't get any screw pop outs from loose drywall, or over tightened screws...
i dont plan on doing any plastic vapor barrier, the foam board is going to be my vapor barrier. i was researching it on the internet and the theory i liked is that vapor barrier against the drywall would just keep the moisture trapped inside the wall potentially causing more issues. i've already spoken with an inspector in my town and he's okay with my plans
 
#24 ·
Did you actually pull a permit for this?? If so, WHY?? If not, whos cares about the damn code?!?! Insulate as you see fit and finish it off.

What the out of control building inspecters in this state dont know wont hurt them, or cost you more headache!

But it will hurt him when he goes to sell it.
 
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