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looking to epoxy my garage floor, which brand?

6K views 38 replies 20 participants last post by  aber61 
#1 ·
I want to epoxy my garage floor, but it seems like everyone I talk to says there floor looks like poop a few years later. Anyone have good luck with it? If so which brand did you use, and what kind of prep work did you do?
 
#3 ·
Lot of times people put the Epoxy down on floors that sweat a lot of moisture, which causes bubbling and over time the bubble pop and tear. First thing to do is check how much moisture is coming through the concrete, lay a large sheet of clear plastic over the floor and leave in place for 24-48 hours. If it shows a lot of moisture underneath it. I'd look at another product than epoxy.
 
#4 · (Edited)
I used U coat it when I built the garage. going on three years and holding up with zero issues. it carries a lifetime warranty if the surface is new and/or prepared correctly. I used the clear auto topcoat so that takes all the scuffs and you can always rough it up an apply more later. it's all in the prep of the floor and mine took 3 days to apply and 10 days after final coat before you can drive on it. I spent around $550 with discount to do a 24x24 ft. surface when I did it and it was money well spent. there was a local retail outlet for it on woodward and 15 but it closed down. this is a product that will allow the moisture to sweat through it. it will not affect the floor finish

prep is two muriatic acid washes, rinse, rewet the floor and apply the base coat. allow to dry 24-48 hours. next apply the second color coat and apply your accent flake and aluminum oxide grit and let sit 24-48 hours. then apply the clear automotive topcoat. let cure for 7-10 days
 
#5 ·
Sherwynn Williams - important have a CLEAN floor, and rent a mechanical scarifier. Acid etching isn't deep enough if you're going to put it to serious use.

Good friend of mine put it in his attached 2 1/2 car garage, and in his 2,500 sq ft shop. His wife used to be a sales rep, and they have done up to 200,000 sq ft industrial buildings with it.

There are of course different versions for different applications - SW has one that is safe for use around jetfuel as well...

http://www.contractortalk.com/f94/garage-floor-coating-45557/ a cross section of opinions just in this thread.
 
#12 ·
Try these guys ! "EpoxyMaster" www.epoxymaster.com ... 586-246-7559
I work next door to these guys .. they do some cool stuff !
You can buy kits through Costco .. or they will come out and do custom floors !
They are not cheap , but I have seen them do some very cool cusom floors .. They can make it look like marble , slate , wood .... lots of colors also !

Tell them "Clif" sent you !
 
#13 ·
as far as prep for garage floors i use a grinder with a dustless guard and diamond blade for the edges and bad spots. then i use a clarke floor maintainer with a custom attachment that hold diamond pucks. no water, no acid etching.

i use industrial grade 100% epoxy and have had excellent luck with it.
 
#22 ·
i used performance floors in mt Clemens. didn't know about the top coat since they never mentioned it but i do a ton of fab work and the floor has held up better than the previous attempts

my only beef is that there are discolorations where oil was left on the floor for long periods of time and it stained the epoxy but overall I'm happy with the results.

i did it all myself and the cost was around 300$ for material


as far as weld marks well they are there but its not a huge deal to me since it is a garage
 
#29 ·
SimpleManLance did my floor a year ago, and its as good as the day it was done (which is prettymuch perfect considering the awful floor he started with). After seeing my buddy spend $300 on his Rustoleum floor he did himself, there is no comparison the epoxy is better that Lance did. Not sure if he's still doing it though.
 
#28 ·
I have used a product called Mega Seal primer which is a sealer clear coat followed by Mega Seal color added top coat. Add flakes and apply Amershield Clear top coat.This product is fast curing and you need to move quickly to apply. This is commercial flooring grade and very durable.
 
#33 ·
get the one that looks like this http://www.1st-product.com/uploads/16/6471/diamond-cup-grinding-wheel-89.jpg

keep the grinder moving at all times, do circular motions as you grind and you will have less grinder marks. start moving before you start and after you stop grinding. is there a base coat or primer coat to fill in imperfections on the floor? do you have a link to the epoxy?

good luck.
 
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