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DIY Control arms

7K views 54 replies 19 participants last post by  chadcooper55 
#1 ·
I am long over due for control arms, at least lowers. I plan on making them myself, or at least have them made. I can get DOM tubing for pretty much at cost so I am really just in need of rod ends. That is where I am having a problem. I don't know if I want to do Johnny joints, bushings, or whatever else I could do. I have been reading up on other forums and I guess I haven't really found my answer.

So my question is, what size DOM tubing would be good for LCA's, what kind of rod ends will be my best option, and can I used factory CA mounts (frame/axle) or would I need new ones?

This Jeep will be my daily driver for about another year, at least just to get me through the winter so I can park my truck. I won't be doing any hard wheeling until I build one tons and such. So for the most part, it will see street use and mild trails.

I read that for a DD, it is good to run a JJ and a bushing on each CA. I also read that JJ's can wear out (or maybe it was heims) if used on CA's on a DD. I guess the road wear really wears them out. I like that you can rebuild JJ's, but I don't know who to get them from if that's what I end up going with. I want to do this right, and be able to use my rod ends again when I finally stretch the Jeep so all I would have to get is tubing.

My Jeep still has the stock CA's and the stock frame/axle mounts. The arms are bent up to hell, and I think the bushings are pretty much done for. Can I use the stock mounts on both frame and axle for JJ's/heims/bushings? I know the factory pressed mounts are junk, but like I said this will only be a DD through this winter so I'm not worried about them. No more hard wheeling until I get big boy axles.

That is all I can think of for now. I just want to be pointed in the right direction so I do this right the first time. Thanks for any and all help. It's greatly appreciated!
 
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#3 ·
Im running 2x.250 DOM 2X.375 is availible. For what you need 1.75x.120 would be more than enough.. I Have a few diffrent end joints on my jeep, but I like the johhny joints the best. you can get them to fit where a stock jeep bushing was at.

For what you are doing somthing like this would be good.. Weld on johhny joints on one end, threaded ones on the other. OR you could just make them weld on both ends.

http://www.4wd.com/Fabrication-Tool...?t_c=86&t_s=528&t_pt=101460&t_pn=CURCE-9110P#
 
#6 ·
I was thinking about going with 2"x.25" wall DOM. Seems pretty common for CA's. I would rather have a little more strength just to be safe. I would think though that 1.75"x.120" would work. Is there a noticeable strength difference in the two of those sizes?

I am thinking JJ's on at least one end. Would I benefit to have an adjustable one rather than a weld on one? How about if I had a JJ on one end, and an adjustable bushing on the other?

Would I want the bushing on the frame or axle? I would think axle because it's closer to the source of wear and tear, but maybe I'm wrong...
 
#17 ·
the oversize of the hole for the thread engagement.
http://www.balax.com/catalog/technical-information/thread-percentage-calculation

he is referring to the standard drill size for that particular tap, versus the bore size of the DOM. The bolt will have less thread engagement because the hole is already blown out larger than the smallest diameter for the most thread engagement. the .008" per side is considered negligible for that large of a thread.
 
#18 ·
I built mine using 2"x.250" wall DOM with JJ at each end. I am redoing my rear 3 link this winter to a DT4, and will be using hex bungs this time to make tightening easier. I also do one RH and one LH thread on each arm to make them adjustable on the vehicle.
 
#19 ·
I just grabbed some 2x2x.250 square tube off the rack at work. Then I machined my weldable bungs from two pieces of 2x2x3 CRS ground to size. Still haven't got around to welding stuff up, but my buddy runs the sqaure tube long arms he made on d60's and 40's. it holds up awsome.
 
#20 ·
Okay bump because I am planning on doing this here within the next month or two (or three) and am still retarded.

I am going to go with 2"x.25" wall - 1.5" tube ID.

I'm probably going to do JJ at the axle end, and then some kind of bushing at the frame end.

Being a DD, is it worth doing JJ at the frame end? I don't mind a somewhat bad ride as far as feeling road vibes/bumps. I just want it to be able to have somewhat decent flex.

Do I need to do uppers with 4" of lift? Seems like it's mainly my lowers that are bad and should be replaced.

I am going to do weld in bungs. I feel that would be easiest. I don't know anybody that can tap the end of a solid tube for me, but I know people that can weld.

I will have the lowers bent some to match most aftermarket arms. The bend in the arm helps the arm to NOT get bound up at the axle mount, and they help decrease the angles a bit and help smooth out the ride?

Can somebody recommend a good bushing to use at the frame end, unless running JJ's at both ends will be okay?

If I order all the parts, is there anybody on here that can help me do this? I really want to learn this, but need somebody to teach me. I would like to do it right the first time and know a lot of you know this stuff a lot more than me. I just need more hands on experience... and the tools!

Thanks a lot guys. Appreciate all the replies and advice to this.
 
#21 ·
Ballistic joints any good? That's what I am currently looking at. I know I will need weldable tube inserts, but don't know what size I need.

If I am going with a 1.5" tube ID, then I would need the OD of the insert to be 1.5" correct? I guess this is where I am getting lost... trying to match up the inserts and joints with the size tubing I am going to go with. Can somebody take a minute and maybe tell me what I need (or would be good enough for how I will be using the Jeep)?
 
#23 ·
I was thinking RuffStuff too. I just like how the Ballistic joints are greaseable and have those like side bushings to help reduce noise? RuffStuff is all heims and I think that would be a lot more of a rough ride... not that it really matters, but just thought the Ballistic joints looked a little better. Would I be safe to go with heims at both ends?
 
#25 ·
Bending 2x0.25 sucks... it's hell on a bender. Further, the bend doesn't make the geometry any better. When doing suspension design, you can put in all the bends you want, but the imaginary line between the two points is what matters.

The only reason I could see needing a bend was if the control arm was going to interfere with a spring bucket or something along those lines.

If you plan to weld in bungs to make it easier, you might as well buy johnny joints for all of them. I've ridden in jeeps with johnny joints on both ends, and it didn't seem to make the ride any worse. It's not like you are modifying a cadillac to start with.

Another option is a thread-in poly bushing. We took the risk and ordered a poly bushing from Ballistic and received it, but based on their past history I'm not going to recommend using them in any way except at your own risk. I think it was about the same price as a johnny joint, but we needed the poly bushing to keep our track bar from flopping around, so we went that route.

Adjustable rear upper control arms are beneficial for tuning out driveline vibrations, especially after a SYE has been installed. Adjustable front upper control arms could allow for correcting front driveline angles. One thing to take note of is that I beleieve the bushings are smaller up top than on the lowers, but it's been a while since I've messed with the stock stuff.
 
#26 ·
Awesome info, thanks JJ.

Well I guess I will stay away from Ballistic then.

What size DOM would you recommend? I Just need a size that will be strong enough for daily driving and the sand dunes Lol.

So it sounds like it will be beneficial to have both uppers and lowers adjustable. How can I tell if the JJ that I order will fit in the stock frame/axle mount?
 
#27 ·
Ballistic ends have a HORRIBLE track record as far as longevity goes. they don't last for shit after you rebuild them either. Not to mention Ballistic fabrications terrible customer service and long history of fucking people over. I run Johnny joints and have for 5 years and they are all still very tight, not a daily driver though. Ruffstuff has awesome deals on rod ends with the tubing adapters and mis-alignment joints as a package. They are also running a good sale that ends today I see.
 
#29 ·
I had ballistic joints, now I don't. There is a reason. I now have currie jj's & am happy. I also had .250 wall lowers. They bent. You can say dunes only but we all know what happens.......
I went 1.75 x .375 wall. They work perfect for tapping & installing 1.25 shank jj's
 
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