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Never Enough.....SAS blaZeR2

100K views 530 replies 74 participants last post by  Judd 
#1 · (Edited)
Here’s my first build.

I would first like to thank my grandparents and especially my grandpa for all of his help with the build. I have been doing all of the work in his shop with his help. This both of ours first truck build but, not his first time in the garage... Ill let you see some of the toys that have rolled out of the garage before :naughty:

As of now
99 Blazer zr2
4.3 v6
-msd ignition
-jba headers egr delete
-flowmaster super44
-gibson 2.5 mandrel bent exhaust
-missing kitty
5 speed
31 bfg at's
torsion bar lift
lift shackles
homemade front bumper

Here it is



Here is my first stuck:sonicjay:

 
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#196 ·
yupppp... after looking through the pictures, you deffinantly live in the NW apartments. im sorry man... lol.

im going to guess you live somewhere on the NW side of the rectangle? my buddy is a supervisor over there. and whenever i go visit him i drive on the east side. might explain while ive never seen your rig. my roomate said she saw someone taking the motor out of their blazer. she works at listening ear on the other side of the W side tent. sometimes i think she is a patient their... shes a fucking idiot. said the blazer someone was working on was black...

if you need a wrenching hand, hit me up.
 
#200 ·
its crap... i was there last year. save yourself some money and go somewhere else, unless rates have changed your paying more for a lesser apartment than most other places offer. even deerfield is nicer. which is saying something. if you text me or want to take it back channel, ill tell you how the campus services put my personal health and those of everyone in my building at risk...

i had tires stacked in my apartment for most of the year... then i built this during christmas break...



im in lake city, been hunting. boyne mountain for new years.
 
#204 ·
So.....

My rear leafs are shot and are allowing bad axle wrap, even on the street. All the wrap has killed my drive shaft, the ears were smashed over the ujoint caps and chipped when I pressed the joint out. I put the new joint in and welded it into place to make it hold. That being said I have 2 weeks to find a replacement before a Snofari.

I have been thinking about doing a hack and tap and running some type of double cardan ds. I'm not sure if this is possible or not. I also haven't been able to find a lot of info on np233 sye. Is there one or does a np231 sye work on the np233?

I’ve also been thinking about a slightly longer shaft that fits my slip yoke, maybe a truck shaft? Only reason for being longer is to compensate for the extra shaft I have exposed from the lift.

As for the leafs I have no idea where to even start. I like the flex the stock pack provided but it obviously they didn’t hold up. I would like to find a set I can use the stock hangers with. I would also be interested in a set that provides about an inch more lift over a stock pack.

I have lots of ideas, but little time to decide on my options. Any suggestions?
 
#225 ·
So.....

My rear leafs are shot and are allowing bad axle wrap, even on the street. All the wrap has killed my drive shaft, the ears were smashed over the ujoint caps and chipped when I pressed the joint out. I put the new joint in and welded it into place to make it hold. That being said I have 2 weeks to find a replacement before a Snofari.

I have been thinking about doing a hack and tap and running some type of double cardan ds. I'm not sure if this is possible or not. I also haven't been able to find a lot of info on np233 sye. Is there one or does a np231 sye work on the np233?
I’ve also been thinking about a slightly longer shaft that fits my slip yoke, maybe a truck shaft? Only reason for being longer is to compensate for the extra shaft I have exposed from the lift.

As for the leafs I have no idea where to even start. I like the flex the stock pack provided but it obviously they didn’t hold up. I would like to find a set I can use the stock hangers with. I would also be interested in a set that provides about an inch more lift over a stock pack.

I have lots of ideas, but little time to decide on my options. Any suggestions?





I used the Novak Adapter for a 231 on electric shift 233.I had both T-cases just in case. They are identical. Also did not need any D/C on either shaft.
 
#205 ·
flatter leafs flex better, but allow for more axle wrap.

and antiwrap bar is a great addition. unfortunately, if you can build a good bar, building a triangulated 4 link isnt a ton more work. why not build a bastard pack using your existing main leaf. i cant remember where it went, but along with the drive shaft pdf i told you about, i also used to have a pdf with various spring lengths and rates for all types of applications.

pirate4x4 may be your best answer.
 
#207 · (Edited)
What do your leafs measure eye to eye? I could sell you mine, plus my truck ds.
I took my truck to a shop and they built and installed a badtard pack that levled it out and didn't wrap as much but kept the ride for $210 eroding my old main spring.
 
#212 ·
I didn't mean "eroding" :confused: Damn Droid... Warping. You can see the wave in the main spring yet but the rest in the pack all look good, and they told me it shouldn't warp like that again. I think they added 1 leaf on the bottom.
 
#217 ·
Hmm I don't like that. My springs right now have a wave in them and once they bend they only continue to bend.

Seasonal road with rocks? Don't see that often
It was washed out because it was all sand and fairly steep, not a bad "road" if you ask me.

How's the Blazer doing wadey? You put a sway bar on it yet?
Ehh the closer to snofari the longer the list seems to get lol. And nope not yet its on the summer todo list, but for now its not that bad unless I have 4 people and tools in it.
 
#218 ·
I have an extra 44 Suoerwinch lockout if your interested.
After seeing the differences between the Superwinches and the old school Spicers I won't be going back to Superwinch. I haven't seen a Warn yet but they might not be a bad option if I can get them through Napa with a lifetime warranty. That way replacements will be easy to come by.
 
#223 ·
I was getting super bad axle wrap a few years ago, when I pulled everything apart to add some leafs because rough country leafs are garbage and went flat and wrapped because I actually wheeled my Jeep and didn't just pavement pound it, I discovered my center pins looked like a set of stairs. The leafs were shuffling around. I've been running Rough Country 4.5" packs minus 2 leafs with the 3 s10 zr2 springs (the whole pack minus eyelets) and the s10 overload for the last 2? years. It's slightly firm driving around but still flex's and a blazer is def heavier than a cherokee. If I did it again I'd def use explorer leafs like we did on a buddies. They're long and can be cut so they're like running a secondary main. I do still want to run a slightly longer main though. I'm def going 4 link someday leafs suck as you want them flexy but not too flexy so they won't wrap.
 
#232 ·
Here's what what my old center pin looked like. what I'm getting at is you may be have more going on than you think. I was sure to retorque my ubolts after I drove it for so long too. maybe I had waited too long before I did.
Thanks Ill be sure to check the bolts but you can see the wave in the spring

i feel your pain, i have the same set up.....I want hydro but I might still want a selectable, dont know what I will do first, or what ill have the money for first.
Im not sure either both would be ideal but like you said money is always concern.

How do you phase your U joints? Ive tried and they seem to bind more :confused:
 
#236 ·
I cant win....



I broke the U joint when I got stuck with only 3wd. I was stuck in a ditch and could only reverse, so I put it in 4low and gave it everything the truck had, while wiggling the front tires being sure not to go to full lock. As you can see joint still failed and took out the both shafts in the process :(

Randys Ring and Pinion, (overstockdiffparts.com parent company) has given me a return number to warranty my new shafts so its not a total loss. But its a little uneasy to see that I'm breaking blingish parts and I haven't really wheeled it yet. Whats it take to keep this thing together RCV's????????
 
#242 ·
Yeah I could use a stub if you had one and Id rather run Spicers than the Superwinches so no need to find those. You still up for the trailer fitment on monday?

there not phased, but its still a pain, I havent had as much trouble as you but i dont drive mine that often, Its only a trail rig and its not to bad as long as im moving and on soft ground
I found my problem, it was the steering stabilizer had slid on the tie rod and it was keeping me from turning left. Now that its fixed I can say phasing the joints is the way to go!

Sweet build! Can't easily tell from the pics, but did you leave the axles full width? How far do they stick out from the flares? Thinking about putting my BlaZeR2 through the swap.
Thanks, and yep its full width. The tires stick out about 2 inches on each side, perfect for keeping the trees away from the body. If you run the stock rear axle and use 1 1/4" (or 1 1/2" cant remember) adapters/spacers the width matches perfectly front and rear.
 
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