just finishing up my tj and my buddys tj(wheelsofsteele). he did a 60 front w 60 rear out of a 79 ford. had a rubicon long arm so we changed the upper links in rear, tossed the rear trackbar and built a 3 link for the front. i did a 60 front 14 bolt rear,3 link front, leaves in the rear. streched to 103. i built new arms for the front and 2.5 currie joints. will post up pictures and more detail when i figure out how to get these pictures in photobucket. we started mikes jeep july 29 sun night and finishing it up today. his tj is a 1997 mine is a 2003. there is some diffrent stuff between the years.i will give detail on what we ran into.
Here are some new pics of mine with the front stretch. Notice the high hood tube fenders. Also threw in a pic of my roll. The guy sitting on the jeep was a friend that had never been wheeling before. He was broken in properly.
so the new setup is good? saw some shots when koz was doing it. the wheelbase is a big inprovement hey. we need to go south together. love to try and keep up with you guys. you have a sweet ass jeep!!
mike beat the crap out of this this weekend. no breaks, did bend the tierod so putting a new one and putting it on top. i drove it up the rock hill out of the ravine w a open front!! gears and locked front next week. i think it was run through the ravine 15 times sun. i run it through in around a minute.
there is hard spots and easy spots. the ravine itself was easier then normal this weekend. it is the side hills that are more of a challenge. most people wont even try them!!
who was sittin on that rock down in there tellin everyone to go the same way over and around every rock? most people didnt even see the side lines. it was a regular ole freeway through there. hardly anyone was even backing up. they all just drove the same exact line. time to raise the stakes maybe? still a good time by all means but no where near what it used to be now that one line has been developed that anyone can drive. id love to come help groom it or extend it if that is possable. add some new challange to it.
you were at the top of that hill when i went up it.. i think you would agree your polished turds would of broke on my skinny peddle assault!!! that is why your jeep and trailjunkies were where at the park??? parked!!!!:sonicjay: oke:
Originally Posted by Ironman
if it is on public property then can you traverse it with a 2 wheel drive conventional motor vehicle? if not than you are violating the 2 wheel drive law on public lands!
oke: I guess this is why nobody in Michigan needs 60's
i pm'ed you back but from ever thing i have ever read is to use 7075 because its a whole lot easier to pull the threads out of 6061. it may be over kill for a tie rod but i know on links 7075 is the way to go and make sure you keep your jam nuts tight.
i told him. withers steel told him that was super strong?? alot of these people dont relize the shock on these big rigs when your hitting stuff..thats what is good about this. get real world opinions instead of a brochure..
Thanks for all the input I guess I will change it dont need steering problems in the trails or on the road that for sure!!!!! nothing worse than braking when every one else is ready to go ben there done that to much in the past!!!!!
what is this based on? what are you figuring as your weakest link? the way I figured it is a 3/4-10 has a root diameter .010" smaller than a 3/4-16, this gives you more "area" of thread actually engaging in the aluminum... this is all based on a 75% thread depth
I was going to dig into some reference material and the machinery hand book but have decided to simplify it for now.
My first reply was based on looking at a simple screw chart that every old time designer carried. How many of you guys have used the Holo-krome slip chart? Well, a simple look at a few different bolt sizes show me that the average tension induced when tightened to yield is about 10% higher, along with Minimum tensile strenght of the same size bolt and finally that you can torque a fine thread higher.
So, then, I did a quick search (what you younger guys doA) and found a writeup on a website. Their descriptions are below.
Unified national coarse. UNC is the most commonly used thread on general-purpose fasteners. Coarse threads are deeper than fine threads and are easier to assemble without cross threading. The manufacturing tolerances can be larger than for finer threads, allowing for higher plating tolerances. UNC threads are normally easier to remove when corroded, owing to their sloppy fit. However, a UNC fastener can be procured with a class 3 (tighter) fit if needed (classes to be covered later).
Unified national fine. UNF thread has a larger minor diameter than UNC thread, which gives UNF fasteners slightly higher load-carrying and better torque-locking capabilities than UNC fasteners of the same identical material and outside diameter. The fine threads have tighter manufacturing tolerances than UNC threads, and the smaller lead angle allows for finer tension adjustment. UNF threads are the most widely used threads in the aerospace industry.
One thing to keep in mind: the threads on a bolt are never the weakest part. It is the bolt itself. I can do the math if you like. Also, keep in mind, as mentioned in the writeup, the root diameter of the coarse thread is smaller, thus creating a "smaller" cross section of bolt.
yes, all of this makes sense but the reason I mentioned the root diameter is because in aluminum im *assuming* the bolt with the smaller root diameter is still stronger than the amount of aluminum that is being captured by the threads.
or is all of this thrown out because the bolt is only as strong as the minor diameter (where it would break) because the threads in the aluminum are stronger?
but this leads me to my original statement.... say we take the area of a coarse thread engagement over 1 inch compared to the same for a fine thread.... this gives us 2 different areas (and the difference between the 2) from there we need to figure the same thing for the aluminum that it is threaded into and determine whether the minor diameter of the bolt is weak link or the area of the threads in the aluminum.
I dont feel like working it out but im going to stand by my original statement that a coarse thread is better in 6061 and lesser quality aluminums and a fine thread is better in 7075.
whiterhino all i want to know is? what are you doing to your front axle?????:thumb: this does all make sence. i know when i was a iron worker all the bolts through the whole building were always coarse. that was proboly so us dummys putting it together would not strip every bolt. i think both of your statements make sence. i will have to say thinking wise a fine thread would be stronger. but i see what you mean bryce. deeper threads into the bolt would be also more strength....i have noticed most u bolts are always fine thread..more strength? mike is going to keep close eye on this i am sure he will change it down the road. this is why we built his first, so all the mistakes were on his. then i can just breeze on through..:sonicjay:
Who said anything about "MY" front axle?:sonicjay: I'm not doing anything to my current front axle.:naughty:
Bryce, you are looking at the wrong direction of strength. It is not the depth of thread that gives it strength but rather the longitudinal shear area which is in the same direction as the centerline of the bolt.
No, not really, I guess I will have to lay it out for you. It really boils down to this: The pitch circle of a fine thread is larger than a course thread. You can't talk about the depth of the thread because the deeper you go into the thread of the bolt, the further and narrower the thread of the nut gets. The point where the nut and the bolt have the same shear strength is at the pitch circle. So, again, it's the size of the pitch circle. Bigger diameter means more circumfrence means more material to shear.
Are we going to have to put some bolts in the vise again to prove my point?oke:
so your saying that the median diameter of the thread (max/root) determines its strength and the area of thread has no effect on this whether the weakest material will fail before the root diameter of the thread snaps?
we might have to break some bolts/strip some aluminum to test this one out :sonicjay:
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