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Ford 6.0 Diesel Techs.

4K views 19 replies 10 participants last post by  ThinICE 
#1 ·
I have been avoiding electronically controlled diesels for a long time because I didn't want to invest in the tools to do them. That coupled with the fact Ford felt it was a good idea to have a short pretty hoodline over making their trucks easily servicable as a fleet vehicle, but I digress.

I've come to the point where I may have to service injectors on a 2004 6.0 with a pickup cab. The time calls for 10 hours and I'm pretty sure the recommended procedure is to disconnect the cab from the frame and slide it back to service the engine. I would like to tap into your experience with these engineering marvels (I really know its more of a marketing issue) so I can bid the job out that is profitable to me yet attractve to the potential customer. I am courting this customer because they have 30 ish vehicles and I want a slice of the action. I've got my foot in the door, now it's time to dance.

Tell me what I need to do for a top quality job. My Mitchell softwear doesn't tell me much and the tool guy says no special tools area really required. From what I can tell, I only need injectors, valve cover gaskets, and some antifreeze. Do I need to drop the oil after the R&R? I would assume I am going to break apart the A/C system so I will need to recharge that too. Are there any other parts or pieces I need to include in the estimate?

Please enlighten me on what's involved. For those that don't know, I am a very experinced mechanic in both gas and diesel applications. I also have a well equiped shop.

Thanks in advance.
 
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#2 ·
03.5-04.5 will be a little different than 04.5 up. If the ICP is on the front passenger side valve cover then you have the 04.5 and up. This will have the updated wavy high pressure oil rails.

I'm not a tech by any means but i've been in there a few times.
Injectors are pretty easy to get to. Driver side will require pulling the degas bottle and ficm, passenger side will not require much more than just pulling the valve cover. You can probably get away without replacing the cover gaskets.

You do have to be extremely careful with the seals with the injector R&R and should probably replace the standpipes and dummy plugs if they have not been replaced before, the newer ones have a teflon o ring to help keep them from leaking. I'm sure others can chime in with the real technical details.

Are you sure the injectors themselves are bad. Low voltages can cause a lot of issues. If in fact the injectors are bad you will want to check voltage so that you don't cause the same issues again.
 
#5 ·
I am encouraging the customer to let me diagnose it so I can fix the problem verses whipping multi-thousands of dollars at it and crossing my fingers.

As far as voltage at the injectors, how should I check them? DVOM or is an ocilliscope required?
 
#7 ·
as far as just r&r on the injectors, they can be done without removing the cab, just need to remove the valve covers. drivers side degas bottle, FICM, and intake must be removed, pass side, the GPCM(glow plug module) and trans dipstick tube. valve cover gaskets can be reused, as long as they're not leaking. what type of concern exactly are you addressing on this? hard cold start, no start. stalls hot, low ICP(injector control pressure)? the 03's and early 04's had problems with injector tops breaking if it's a no start/stalls when hot concern, also leaking icp sensor, oil seeping into pigtail and shorting. either way, they're pretty simple to work on once the above listed times are out of the way. let me know what the concern is and i can head you in a direction
 
#8 ·
The R&R time is about 10 hours. Others have told me they needed to remove the cab to access the #7 and #8 injectors. I've been avoiding these buckets of crap for years but I have a commercial customer that has asked me about doing it.
 
#13 ·
Look up the AE Auto Enginuitey (sp) scanner. I think it costs about 400 bucks and you hooks up to your laptop.

It honestly sounds like you're overthinking it. Between your mechanical experience and the internet, anything is possible on a 6.0. Like i've said many times, I 've done way more with my 6.0 than i ever have with any other electrically controlled vehicle and have done just fine.

Personally, there's probably a ton of money to be made with them. I even got a free trip to Drummond Island with all the beer and pizza i could drink to fix one in the parking lot of the grocery store. I just got another offer of beer and pizza to help with an EGR delete this month.
 
#17 · (Edited)
I don't know specifics, but I know the Ford VGT rusts up causing the vanes to stick or lag resulting in under/over boost codes and derates. There are companies that make turbos with better materials resulting in less rust. I would stick with the VGT though unless you're really doing some mods. The VGT allows for performance acrossed all RPM ranges.
 
#18 ·
I have a 04 F 250 6.0 i have done all the work myself if you are having injector problem it might not be them there is a updated furl regulator spring factory ones are weak what are the symptoms you are having.

I clean my turbo about 2 times a year and its not bad also have a egr delete arp studs new hpop and collant bottle also ficm hot mod all this took me 2 days and a few beers. If you dont have a scanner spent 70 bucks at a dealer and have them do a report for you. its a little more detailed then a cheap scanner.
 
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