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Old August 27th, 2013, 10:53 AM   #21
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Join Date: 09-06-08
Location: Caledonia,MI
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Some crappy pictures I kicked out while on break. My scanner does not work without ink so they were taken with a pos phone.

Basically I am going to take a pipe, weld a flange on the inside with holes to match my bolt circle, then weld another flange on the other end on the outside of the pipe with bolt holes for studs. I will have a ring cut which will serve as the rotor wear area that will bolt to the outside flange. This will let me simply cut out new wear rings instead of replacing the entire rotor when needed.

The caliper mounts to the upper portion of the steering knuckle. It will be around 25" off the ground.

It is progressing just slow due to funds.

I need to get the new stud mount 22.5x8.25(r11) rims first. Once I have the rims I can mock up mount my steering box(on the axle) and linkage to see how much room I have to work with inside the rim. Then I can determine the size of pipe and which caliper will provide the most surface area. Once I know how much wear area I am working with I can start looking at different calipers to see which one will give the largest footprint.

I plan on mounting the "street" 22.5 rims/tires inside the hub. For off road (mostly snow/mud) I will be using 54" xl 's on r20's mounting them outside the hub. Doing this lets me have the larger tire and same turning angles without changing my wheelbase. The downside is that the rotor will be hanging 5" below the axle tube. On the rear I am simply going to install a "rock guard" connected to lower truss. I am still unsure how I am going to protect the front rotors at this point.

The entire point is to mount the caliper as high as possible to whip off derbies giving better breaking/life while making the wear parts easy and cheap to replace. Placing the rotor in open air will also keep the caliper and rotor cooler.
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