Originally Posted by Motorcitydak
My dad used to be on the crew for an off shore race boat. One day the boss wanted to remove 100# from the boat. In order to do that, you do not simply remove one thing that weighs 100#, you remove 100 things that weigh 1 pound. I have been going over every single piece that will be on that car in the end. If it can be lighter, I do not stop until it is
I know the mopar B body weighs a lot but you would not believe just how much of that weight is in just all the bolt on stuff. I have weighed my bare shell, it is only 635 pounds. I have a Moser 9 inch rear, will be using an aluminum 3rd member, 5.7 Hemi (505lb, weighed that too), trans is 100, transfer case is 45, front diff is 40 iirc, CV shafts are around 10, driveshaft about another 20. My steering rack is from Woodward, only 15# iirc. This will be manual steering and brakes with a Tilton triple master clutch and brake assy (5#). Rite now with the car as a shell with rear axle, engine/trans/transfer case and the front end, I should be no more than 1400-1500 pounds. That is with no interior, glass or body panels yet. I also am not running the stock grill or grill support. I have fiberglass fenders (5#) and a fiberglass hood altho I want to get a different bolt on one which I think is 15#. Then a fiberglass deck lid for another 5# vs the stock 40#'er. I really do hope I can do the 2500# race weight, only time will tell tho. My suspension and sway bar setup that I have built only weighs 20# a piece (front and rear) and I have eliminated the stock bolt in front K member (60#) for my own tubular one which weighs I think 25#
Like someone else said, do not do the carb conversion. EFI is decades ahead, literally. You can have an LS motor running for about $300 in wiring harness modification and ECU reflashing. You will have better economy and driveability complete with on board diagnostics
For the transfer case, just pick up a 247. As we all know, jeep guys hate them because of the viscous coupling and usually swap them out. You can pick one up, remove all of the shiftable components and save 20#. The coupling is actually pretty awesome for what we want.
As for the question about the t-56, I had a Viper t-56 before. Now tho I am using a c-5 Corvette t-56 but with the 32 spline SSR mainshaft and the Viper mid plate. The C-5 has the triple/double synchro assemblies so it should shift slick as owl snot up to and over 7,000rpm. For the shifter itself, I will be using a Keisler mid shifter. The stock C-5 tailshaft is still on there then I have a 3/4 plate and a 545rfe tailshaft to give me a trans mount and adapt to the NV 6 bolt transfer case pattern. Then another 3/4 plate to flip the 247
Here are a few shots of my junk. The front diff in there is from a cadillac STS but now I am using one from a trailblazer/envoy since they have a larger ring gear and some aftermarket support that provided me with a 4.56 ratio
Yeah, I am all about shedding weight on vehicles. I just see your goal of 2500lbs as optimistic.
You are at 635lbs on the body, then you need to add glass, seats, body panels. So you will be at least 800, likely, unless you are trying to make a track car.
I'm trying to make a fast street car, so I will have seats, radio, etc. I am at about 800lbs for the basic frame, body, seats, and dash. I don't have anything, body wise.
So we are the same there.
Your motor is 505lbs, mine is 430. I will be a touch heavier in the trans, t cases I assume about the same. I don't like the Jeep cases, the internals are too small. I am using a Borg Warner BW-4472, which is what is in the Typhoons, slightly stronger than the 1372s in the Syclones, and will handle 500hp/tq.
You have a Moser 9", which is heavier than a stock ford 9, but you will go aluminum in the 3rd. I have a Ford 9", but will probably use my 8.8, which is lighter, and has doesn't eat HP like the 9". Not sure yet...
Your tires/wheels look heavier than what I plan to run. Front axle, I'm a little heavier, maybe 50 lbs.
Who knows. maybe mine will come in lighter. I carry that 250lb fudge factor, because stuff adds up. wiring, exhaust, plumbing, fluids, etc.
And I'd rather have the extra 50-100lbs of a loud stereo, seats, etc, since its not a stripped track car.
I know it could be ultimately faster on the track to be 2wd. I am thinking that if it comes out to be low 11s on the street, is there any point in trying to be faster, if the only times I go to the track are for fun, not trying to be competative. Not sure....