I measured it again, it would be possible to make it the exact length, except the drag link will be a slightly flatter angle compared to track bar, but I think it will be closer than where I am at now. Can you get away with some difference in the two?
Also how critical is it that the drag link be parallel with the tie rod end when viewed from above coming off of the pitman arm? If I do this Y-link type and weld a tab to the tie rod end and put the tie rod body forwards it will bring me much closer to being parallel than where I am at now, and there isn't really any moving axle placement or the steering box the way the ford frame is up front.
Also I will keep that in mind Dale, you are much closer and would be easier than ordering parts and waiting a couple days versus going and just picking them up.
I also thought of flipping it like you say and going off of the top, except the way the taper is I dont think it would be possible to do it would it that the large portion of the taper is already on the bottom? I do have a tapered insert sitting right here, I just don't know how much it would weaken the pitman arm drilling it out to 7/8" to get the taper to drop into it. If you were to view the pitman arm from directly above the portion the tie rod end goes into is 1.375 diameter at its smallest portion, so putting a 7/8" hole in it would leave me with 1/4" of solid metal all the way around the hole in the weakest portion, slightly more in the middle. Would that be enough, or would the taper work inverted? I measured the top and bottom of the hole real quick and at quick glance I was rougly 5/8" up top and 3/4" on bottom ( those aren't super precise measurements) would the tie rod ride deeper on the pitman arm or is the bottom too bid now to be inverted?
Last edited by jeepxj2007; February 14th, 2013 at 04:21 PM.