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Old February 4th, 2013, 07:46 AM   #36
Nuggets
I fix stuff!
 
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Join Date: 09-15-06
Location: Bay City, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XJcoupe View Post
up here in the north, our city owns and is responsible for all waterlines right up to the meter, the house owner is only responsible for the water line after the city meter and the valve
I Bay City I am reponsible for the waterline from the shutoff valve to the meter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mean_greenEXJAY View Post
Bottled water, shitting outside, and truckstop showers until spring?
I'm ok with that but the wife and kids will not be so happy.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cj65 View Post
Can you get a frost tooth for the backhoe? If the frost is less than 12" you can rip it with a backhoe if you take your time. Once you get a hole started your all set. Another thing I have done in the past is to use a concrete saw with a diamond blade to scar the area and it comes up pretty easy then.
I like the concrete saw idea.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hosejockey4506 View Post
Also check and see if you can use plastic way cheaper
Nope. The inspector says I have to use copper from the valve to the meter. Also, no solder joints, only flared fittings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MUDDERofaJEEPER View Post
jack hammer first then use the back hoe. Or if possible get a case 560 to use the trencher or similar machine.
I've thought about the jackhammer thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jthomp View Post
If the owner of the backhoe is okay with it, you can hammer though the frost with the bucket teeth. That's what we've been doing at work lately.

Also it's not uncommon for the water line after the curb box to be the home owners responsibility. Most likely they will require you to put in K copper or a meter pit out front then you can run what ever you want. Since you said you have 25' of copper already, I can tell you that's going to be cheaper than a pit.

Also be sure to find out what kind of joints they allow, most likely sweated or flare joints are permitted, while compression type are not.
I own a Case 580CK and lets just say it's less than springtime fresh. If I can get under the frost I can usually break 10+ inch think frost. Working with frost does beat the shit out of the machine.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 93trackaddict View Post
Run a garden house until it thaws out a spot to start digging
That spot will be a little soupy
Pick the place to lay the garden hose accordingly
I've had the garden hose hooked up for 10 hours now and not a drop of water has come out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Muddyfun73 View Post
Just did this last fall. If it is broken at the shut off, you don't have to replace all the way to the meter. I bought 18" of 3/4 K line and compression fittings. Have they turned the water off at the shutoff to see what side it is leaking on? If you can still hear or see water running when off it is the City side and should be there responsibility. Hardest part of mine was it was 7 feet down and back filled with rock and sand. I went and got some sand to fill the hole after I was done. And as a side note, most water providers in Michigan only cover the street side shut off. If it breaks anywhere on the owners side, it is the homeowners problem.
The barrels and torpedo heater work surprisingly well.
The city says I must replace everythig to the meter because the line was installed in 1910. The supply line is most likely lead or galvanized pipe.
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