Originally Posted by cerial
I am using the 440 setting and getting good penetration. I cut a few pieces of tubing when I first started to make sure.
The 120 setting is just kind of there. Maybe I will use it later on with some 16 gauge fenders on something else but don't see realistically using that setting much.
I looked at buying a chassis but eh that kind of defeats the goal of building this from the ground up. Besides I would see people rolling there eyes if I tried to explain the door thing. I have done other builds but I always started with a cab or a frame then built off of that.
Once the cab is finished it is going to be quite a strong box. It is the most built and heaviest part of the chassis. Everything except for this strong box is designed to be as lightweight as possible(while still being .120 thick)and either be crushed or be bent in a crash or roll. This is to lessen the forces to the people inside and prevent injury.The areas that are designed to bend or crush are designed to be easily rebuild able which is why they are very basic.
Don't worry I more then over thought the safety aspect. The strong box is based off of ultra 4(minimum specs due to no windshield brace) then I added a few things like the uprights to keep the window area street legal while keeping the roof from crushing.
The thing is not triangulated yet. Once I mock the motor there will be a x brace in the back, x on the roof, angle on the floors under the driver and passenger, and the dash will be triangulated to keep the uprights from bending in a side impact.
To further strengthen it I am adding a .120 thick roof and floor panels which will be welded tying the outside cage and x roof support together. I had a ton of different ideas for the roof but that is the one that is the safest while providing a leak proof barrier. It adds a bit of weight but will take forever to rust and protect rocks/branches/ice/etc from coming in. The doors are actually very strong once the lexan is in place and they also provide a great amount of protection from derbies while being leak proof. The actual door opening is only 28" giving easy entry while lessening the chance of any type of frame member entering the cab in a side impact. I thought of every possible scenario and the strong box performs very well. Worst case scenario I have a huge 32x66" windshield to be pulled out of.
This build is entitled "my first buggy build" I do plan on rolling it and such and then rebuilding it which is why there are few bends and the Monocoque style was used. I am not using molly or tig welding the thing because that is just to freaking expensive and time consuming. The joints fit tight together with me needing a BFH most of the time to get them into place they are so tight. My welds are good and I clean both mating surfaces fully within a hour of welding. I am making sure to weld a quarter of the tube then move to a different piece of tubing to avoid any heat issues before coming back to the tubing. This method also has given cleaner welds with me tossing the cage around quite a bit to get the best angle to weld.
That double weld thing is a embarrassment and was just a spur of the moment thing.
I have a entire month until I can get back to this thing and already wish I was there to get back to working on it. Oh well that just gives me time to order a few more parts.
ok you win
I figured it out, your building the Fastest 2 Seater Armourd Truck,
when your on the road Truck Driving, do you talk to yourself into a dicktator machine or do you have a girl/buddy in the passanger seat that does short hand or takes cliff notes of your thoughts
just buggin, have a safe road trip working and a Happy New Year