Originally Posted by Mr.Green again
RONG. Thats twice today. Waves get bigger as they travel into shallow water (shore). Jeez. You should go back to bed.
It's more complicated than that.
Deep water = longer wave lengths & taller wave heights.
Shallow water = shorter wave lengths and smaller wave heights.
True, as a wave enters shallower water, more of it is exposed
- but they don't get higher. Shallow water also causes them to break as their natural height can no longer be supported.
What's why five foot waves on Lake Erie are much worse than Lake Michigan. On Erie, the wavelengths are only 25-30 feet and a five footer is breaking across most of western basin. On Lake MI, it's just a swell with a 75-100 foot wavelength.
Tsunamis have bigger waves that storms, because they more efficiently apply energy (direct kinetic energy from fault action on bottom) than wind (indirect application of wind energy).
Nuclear physicist, out.