Originally Posted by cerial
A small body lift is not a bad idea. The problem is people get stupid with them and have a 6" body lift or such. On most of the kits out there the only thing holding the body on is bolts. The longer the bolts the greater the change they will shift or sheer in a crash. I would rather cut fenders to fit bigger tires then to add a lift. Part of that is I am just cheap at heart. I have tossed in a few hockey puck body lifts on junk rides. I always made sure to weld tabs to the frame then bolt the tabs to the body along with the cheap body lift bolts. It creates a bit more vibration but in a crash roll etc the body always stayed on and I credit the tabs to that not the bolts running through the hockey pucks.
The less angle you have in your drive shafts the longer the u joints, seals, and such will last. The more travel you have the higher chance of the pinion creating a situation where the angle is far off causing accelerated ware. If you just add a body lift your not changing the angle of your drive shafts. Your ride will remain the same. It will be better after you rebuild the spring pack and add some cheap shocks. The less rpm's your engine is turning the less wear it is creating(within the power curve). There is also a power loss with higher rpm's but I wont go into that. Lets say you have a 3000 stall and 3.15 gears running 33" tires. Your 1/2 shift is going to be around 40 and 2/3 is going to be around 60. Your going to have good acceleration around town while having around 2500 rpm on the highway.
With the stock 2.73 gears you may want to look at a 2500 stall to get close to the same shift points.
The problem is that your engine probably makes power from 2000-4000 so having it shift at the lower end of the power curve really waste a lot of the engines potential. I could be totally wrong maybe it is set up to be a torque monster and make power under 2500 making a 2500 stall perfect.
Play around with the gear ratio calculator for a while and see what makes you happy.
Here is some great tech that touches on drive shaft angles.
yea alright that lift stuff makes sense. grade 8 bolts aren't likely to shear though from what I've read. here's an article on grade 5 vs 8 fasteners. both pretty strong.
engine speed info makes sense. honestly not sure if it's set up to be a torque monster tho. doesn't the stall converter make it need more power until it actually starts going? and now that you mention it...... idk if I even have a stall converter?? or at least Idk what it is if I do have one.