Originally Posted by FORD FLARESIDE
Under load the factory bushing was compressing too much and was creating havoc with the long side axle.........I had the distance from pivot to hub, just a little farther then the stock axle could safely move. I too, am trying to use stock axles.
When I was researching, everybody kept telling me to do a "cut and turn", but "Nobody" had any numbers other then one person from my club who had found some information for his ranger.
I ended up cutting the front end of a donor truck off and mounting the front sub to my barn wall so I could cycle the Twin Tortion beams through full movement. I've gone through 4 sets of beams now. I'm not quite ready to release travel numbers yet, like I said earlier, I don't want to give the information out until I get it right.
I keep reading about the "cut and turn" as well but like wise no numbers to go with. I am comfortable doing something like that but have not found anything to go from so I am not looking to take a total shot in the dark. I do like the idea of using a sub frame mounted to a wall. I have a parts truck out back that needs to meet the torch and welder to get some bugs worked out of my design.
Did you make the brackets your self or did you start with a kit or are you not even using brackets any more? How much of a lift are you trying to run? I understand not letting out too many number when things are unknown. I have seen beams that are cut and turned offered by Camburg but for $550 with cores required I can cut them myself if I decide on this route.
So far you have been helpful in giving me one thing to be very mindful in my project.