If you're not familiar with what makes a Dakota into a R/T, it comes with:
-5.9L engine and a 4speed auto,
-1" drop in the suspension,
-bigger front brakes,
-massive front and rear anti-sway bars,
-bigger rear axle (9 3/4 I think) with 3.94 gears and posi,
-17 inch alloys with fat tires,
-flares and I'm sure I'm forgetting something
The drivetrain and suspension are unaltered and just as Ma Mopar made them. Also on this truck are power mirrors, power locks/windows, the overhead trip computer and console, tilt steering wheel, cruise control, keyless entry, factory alarm, and of course, A/C.
Since purchasing it new in 01 I've added aftermarket fog lights, aftermarket mirrors, aftermarket grille, clear corner lights, swapped in an all-red 3rd brake light, lift-assist bed cover, bed-liner, bed side tops, window visors, Dodge rubber floor mats, entry guards, keyed locks for the spare tire and airbag, removed all the stock stickers/emblems (except for that last v8 one which will be gone soon) and added an NOS 1970 Charger R/T emblem to the front grille. After I remove the last emblem, I have two '69 era "360" eblems to go on the front fenders. Also, I installed a tool box in the bed and in it is the stock jack (cause interior space is limited enough already).
Oh, and then there's my custom sound system. I used a top-of-the-line Kenwood receiver (with an auto flip-face and a remote control), 10 disk changer, Infinity speakers, 4x75 watts RMS amp powering the 4 corners, a 1x150 watt RMS amp for an interior subwoofer, 1/4 farad capacitor for the sub, an equalizer to control everything and all new wiring. The 2 amps, equalizer, and capacitor are neatly hidden away in the center console by my own design. Everything was done myself. About the only thing left from the old system is the power wire going to the receiver. The 8" woofer and box that I use inside the cab are not for sale. The box is the only one I've ever found that fits behind the console in my Comanche and they have discontinued it. there's plenty more room in a Dakota for bigger sub boxes so you can add the woofer of your choice. But if you don't want the system, it's reasonably easy to swap back to the stock R/T components (stock system had external amps and was pretty darn good for a stock system, but it was still a stock
system). If choose not to buy my system, I'll remove it for you, but I'll be keeping the center console rather than remove everything from inside. You can easily pick up a new one at a junkyard for cheap. I recently bought the subwoofer box with the dual 12s but the amp for it isn't hooked up yet. Preliminary tests have concluded that it kicks ass.
Also included in the price are the factory shop manual set, bra for the front end, five 15x7 black steel rims if you need a second set of rubber (I don't have tires for them), a solid back window to swap in, some other odds and ends, and the best thing of all: my assistance.
It's not a warrantee per se, but I'd be glad to lend a hand if you need it. I'd also like an opportunity to buy it back from you should you ever decide to sell it. Just cause I'm flat broke now doesn't necessarily mean I'll be flat broke later on and I gotta tell ya, I'm not selling this cause I want
I know some people like to say that the 5.2 or 4.7 with a stick is faster (yeah right
), but the R/T came with all the other beef-ups that make it handle like a freaking race car. I like to call it my vette-with-a-bed.
Unfortunately, the awesome looking BFG Scorcher tires aren't race car tires and the truck handled even better with the stock tires. But they are still pretty good and you can leave black and yellow skid marks behind you so it's all good.
I did a ton of research and have a secret plan for putting a stick in her (no it doesn't involve the clunky nv4500) and I'll let the new owner in on it.
Every oil change has been with full or semi-synthetic oil and I changed the spark plugs last year (dropped and broke one during routine inspection so I just replaced the set). I bought the truck in wintertime and had to drive it for that year but it's been stored every winter since at my Grandma's garage. That reminds me, 2 winters ago someone
left an interior light on after a routine firing-up-of-the-engine and the battery didn't take that very well so I replaced it (and started disconnecting the cable during storage). :tonka:
Asking price is 9,500 as-is with everything, 8,500 without the system
I'm located in southeast Michigan, Riverview to be specific