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22RE problems

10K views 48 replies 21 participants last post by  Baookamn 
#1 ·
i have a 22RE an when i start it up it runs good but when i start reving it up to about 2000 rmp it starts running like crap it wants to die but if i jest keep reving it up it will clear up about 3500 4000 rpm i replaced the throdale position sencer in it an it seamed to help out a little bit but not much any ideas anyone:confused::confused:
 
#13 ·
The spark plugs . Were they pregaped or did you gap them ?
x2 check the timing
? o2 sensor , is there one . That will tell the computer its is running rich , lean .
cap or rotor , are they on right . not broken
You put spark plug wires on . Are they put on , in the fireing order . Are they all the way on , dis cap and spark plug .

Did they give you the right parts at the store , for that motor ?
 
#15 ·
22re's are junk

There, I did it, you happy firehawk jay? :finger:

Check the ignition module ignitor thingy, mine was shit and the truck idled like shit but ran ok under load.

Timing could be off, timing guides and timing chain replaced recently?

My 22re had all loads of issues, then it blowed up, rebuilt it, new ignition thingy, new pistons, rings, bearings, cam, etc. ran decent after that, until it died on the way home for the new owner, fucking peices of shit.
 
#21 ·
depending how many miles factory specs for timing might not be what it needs i have one when set to factory spec it diesels but when i set it just by ear without a light runs like a champ mileage is alot to do with the older motors but 220,000 an still goin strong they are a great motor get tons of miles outta them
 
#28 ·
When you replaced the TPS, did you readjust the new one to specs?

MIght want to read through all of this:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml#MoreInfo

Likewise, when you set the timing, you need to jump the one connector before setting timing. Connector locations here:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#TimingCheckConnector

You might try jumping the diag connector, sometimes there are codes there even without a constant check engine light.


Also, is your air flow meter in good shape, and no leaks in the intake tube between the AFM and the throttle body?

Definately go through and make sure all of the grounds are good. There should be a couple on the engine, and to the body. Make sure the ECU looks good, that its well grounded to the body.

Sometimes on those, due to the age of them, you get bad wiring connections that just go intermittant. The heat of the engine dries and cracks them a bit, especially where the hrness goes through the intake manifold under the plenum.


Myself, my 22RE was always fine. The only issues I had was poor running/stumbling/sputtering, due to ECU under water, and poor running due to water in fuel.

Here's a post similar, but never really resolves it:

What would cause a newly rebuilt 22RE to run rough between 3000 to 4000 RPM? - Pirate4x4.Com
 
#29 · (Edited)
#31 ·
22REs don't have head gasket problems... it's

The cylinder heads on 22REs go bad, NOT the head gasket as with junk Toyota V-6. This is due two issues in my opinion:
1) Coolant passages are located too close to cylinder chambers.
2) Toyota Aluminum casting is inferior due to visual porosity and foreign material introduced in the sand casting process. Possible inferior aluminum alloy is used by Toyota to cut costs as well as they don't or didn't know what the f they were doing pouring cast aluminum.

The only solution is to remove the cylinder head and weld repair and re-surface the cylinder head. Detection of the bad area is difficult and best left to a cylinder head professional. On my personal junk 22RE that's been weld repaired twice since new (now has about 180K miles since brand new, 1988) my cylinder head guy and I decided to weld up two or three (maybe 4) "blind" passages in the head that are also close to cylinder chambers. I think they are there to aid in cleaning and drainage when the garbage head is off, and not all that necessary as the gasket blocks them off anyway. This last repair has held for about 25K miles now, but the truck and engine lower end have fallen apart (burning lots of oil although I put a front main seal repair kit in) and are no longer road worthy. I use it for hauling rocks and wood on my property. It's a cheap "John Deer Gator" now and works okay for this.

On a side note, I have easily spent way more of my time working on my junk Toyota SR5 extended cab 4x4 than any other vehicle I've ever owed. Not only is it the worst quality vehicle with the fewest recalls of things that should have been recalled of anything I've ever owned, It is NOT an "off road" vehicle, no matter what others think. The weakest link is the bogus clutch that Toyota put in. It will burn out on any steep hill in 4x4 low range with your foot completely off the clutch.

Any inline 6 (except Toyota) is the best for off road so why bother with anything else. Get a Jeep or Chevy.... seriously.
 
#32 ·
The cylinder heads on 22REs go bad, NOT the head gasket as with junk Toyota V-6. This is due two issues in my opinion:
1) Coolant passages are located too close to cylinder chambers.
2) Toyota Aluminum casting is inferior due to visual porosity and foreign material introduced in the sand casting process. Possible inferior aluminum alloy is used by Toyota to cut costs as well as they don't or didn't know what the f they were doing pouring cast aluminum.

The only solution is to remove the cylinder head and weld repair and re-surface the cylinder head. Detection of the bad area is difficult and best left to a cylinder head professional. On my personal junk 22RE that's been weld repaired twice since new (now has about 180K miles since brand new, 1988) my cylinder head guy and I decided to weld up two or three (maybe 4) "blind" passages in the head that are also close to cylinder chambers. I think they are there to aid in cleaning and drainage when the garbage head is off, and not all that necessary as the gasket blocks them off anyway. This last repair has held for about 25K miles now, but the truck and engine lower end have fallen apart (burning lots of oil although I put a front main seal repair kit in) and are no longer road worthy. I use it for hauling rocks and wood on my property. It's a cheap "John Deer Gator" now and works okay for this.

On a side note, I have easily spent way more of my time working on my junk Toyota SR5 extended cab 4x4 than any other vehicle I've ever owed. Not only is it the worst quality vehicle with the fewest recalls of things that should have been recalled of anything I've ever owned, It is NOT an "off road" vehicle, no matter what others think. The weakest link is the bogus clutch that Toyota put in. It will burn out on any steep hill in 4x4 low range with your foot completely off the clutch.

Any inline 6 (except Toyota) is the best for off road so why bother with anything else. Get a Jeep or Chevy.... seriously.
wow you really are retarded. were all entitled to our own opinion so why don't you keep yours to your self.

you stupid first posting trash talking nebraskan pig
 
#33 ·
i love these old trucks and would rather own one than any thing built on this piece of crappy soil

go to your gm dealer and ask the service man how much if the parts that are used in new motors says made in usa on it. all made in mexico, keep supporting out sourcing you asshole
 
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